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Unread 11-22-2020, 10:33 AM   #16
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
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I just looked into it and I was mistaken. I must be thinking of Ditra. It seems that Schluter doesn't reveal what the minimum tile size is for going over their Kerdi shower pans.
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Unread 11-26-2020, 04:34 AM   #17
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Kerdi curb with frameless shower door

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.

My shower demo/kerdi install continues today. I'll be demo'ing the existing pan this morning and hopefully getting the wall board and kerdi pan installed by tomorrow afternoon.

My existing shower (mud/liner) has the typical 2x4 curb. I have a kerdi curb to install but am reading conflicting info on these can accomodate a frameless shower door. My existing door (well...now removed) had a horizontal track on the curb with just silicone....the wall track had four screws through the tile to the 2x4's underneath.

My question is whether new door installs keep the existing horizontal adhesive mount (with no screws). Obviously the concern here if mounting screws are needed on the curb and that Kerdi likely will not hold them. If not, I presume I will need to build a new curb?

Also, if I use kerdi for the wall board on the 6" door frame/shower entrance, once tiled, Is this still adequate for a new door installation? I would presume so as the existing door had simple 1/2" drywall, no CBU.

If forum thinks I should play it safe and build a new curb with 2x4's, can I just use kerdi on shower side (would be about 52" x 5") and waterproof the seams/install membrane on the top and band at the seams (after corners are applied)?

Although this project is time consuming, it's been a ton of fun as my two sons are learning so much and enjoying learning how the bathroom/shower is installed...and what 14 yo boy doesn't love using a recipricating saw and impact hammer!!

On another note....my 4x8 sheets of Kerdi board arrived yesterday via an online retailer. I ordered 5 sheets for my install at $100/sheet. You guys know it's not cheap....but it looks like for some reason the retailer billed me twice and shipped TWO orders! No luck calling them as it was the day before Thanksgiving.
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Unread 11-26-2020, 09:39 AM   #18
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Dave, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

You do not penetrate the waterproofing membrane on top of a shower curb with mechanical fasteners regardless the composition of the curb. Just don't do it.

Your glass panels for the shower enclosure can be installed with no fasteners at all and your glass door can be installed with hinges fastened to the shower wall or other glass panels. Done alla time.

If your glass design requires brackets or channels of some sort on the top of the curb, those can be installed without mechanical fasteners, too. Your glass company should know how to do all that. If not, pick another glass company.

Fastener penetrations on the vertical surface are acceptable if done properly. I know lots of shower door hardware has been installed on vertical tile surfaces over KerdiBoard and similar foam boards, but I've not done it and don't know the various manufacturers' requirements. In your case, Schluter may have a recommendation in their published material.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-26-2020, 09:46 AM   #19
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Correct, Dave, the foam curb will not hold a screw so if the door you've chosen requires such a solidly mounted track then you're best off building the curb from 2X's or, perhaps better, CMU's (bricks, blocks, etc).

But the goal for a curb is to avoid puncturing whatever water proofing is applied to it, and long screws will surely do that. If the track can be fastened with adhesive that's how you'd want it done. Best bet is to design the whole thing so that a wall hung door can be used.

Kerdi covering the 6" framing is not a problem.
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Unread 11-26-2020, 10:07 AM   #20
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I use foam curbs all of the time now. Our typical install is a shower door hinged on one side with a stationary panel on the other. The stationary panel is installed in a U-channel. The U-channel is attached to the wall with screws and the bottom is simply siliconed in place and when the glass sits on it everything stays in place nicely.

There are some applications where they have to mount something on the curb. However, with a foam curb I don't worry about this anymore because they can't hurt the waterproofing.

Usually, what they do is just install a moly in the tile and mount whatever bracket they need to install.

I have a good relationship with my glass installers and I've talked to them before about if they want me to mount something in the foam that would have more gripping power. Something like a chunk of aluminum or plastic. But they have repeated that the moly is all that they need.

So you might talk to whoever is going to do your glass and see how they want to handle it. But if they need to mount something, or insist that they do, I feel way better about a foam curb than I would a wood framed curb.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonedoc
but it looks like for some reason the retailer billed me twice and shipped TWO orders!
It looks like you've got another shower to do after this one

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Unread 11-29-2020, 04:45 PM   #21
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Plenty of work done over the extended weekend. Kerdi Board is up (minus the shower head wall as I'm waiting for my new shower head and valve).

Dry fit my bench to fit....looks nice and snug. Was thinking of reattaching the side wall of the bench under the remaining four inch "floating top"...No videos address this on the Schluter website.....Any ideas on "leaving it alone and simply tiling over with my 12 x 24's on th bench top OR reattaching the side underneath. Likely using Kerdi-Bond for the sides against the walls and mud on the floor at the same time I lay the pan.

Another question for the experts....I have a 48 x 72 pan. One side will be trimmed to accommodate the bench, other side will need to be extended with dry pack mortar mix (with proper slope) by about six inches. Do most of you lay any liner/plastic under the dry pack? Not sure about dry pack directly on the plywood or laying some sort of membrane with perhaps wire mesh on top.

Any thoughts?
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Unread 11-29-2020, 06:03 PM   #22
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Jim what's a "moly"? Only thing I can find is a special coated fastener?

Molybdenum Bolts
When extreme high temperature stability & strength are required

Maintains strength at elevated temperaturesMolybdenum Bolts
Low distortion at high temperature
Molybdenum must be used in vacuum or inert gas at high temperatures
Common molybdenum grades and specifications
Molybdenum datasheet
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Unread 11-29-2020, 06:08 PM   #23
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Most correct spelling is molly, Justin. Google up molly bolt. Several different styles, actually probably dozens of styles, but all designed to penetrate a sheet material and clamp against the back of the sheet. Good for fastening to drywall and other materials with a hollow area behind them.
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Unread 11-29-2020, 06:13 PM   #24
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For the drypack Dave most use roofing felt on the floor with diamond lath stapled down. But having some schluter product lying around I'm sure someone who is more familiar with that system could hopefully point you to using some of your leftovers for underneath your slope.
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Unread 11-29-2020, 06:15 PM   #25
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I see it now CX, I've used a ton of those for hanging things around the house.
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Unread 11-30-2020, 11:31 AM   #26
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Once again, CX is right.
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Unread 12-13-2020, 04:49 AM   #27
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New question before I set my tray and bench...

Original shower size was 48 x 84 with center drain. Once I install the Kerdi Bench, it becomes 48 x 66 (had to cut one side of the Kerdi Tray), but the side with the bench is 36" from the drain (42" on the other side). Now the drain is obviously off center.

Perimeter height on bench side will be 1 1/8" vs 1 1/2" on opposite side (original tray length plus about 6" addition of dry pack to meet the wall).

My questions are:

1) Will differences in perimeter height affect drainage (shower arm extends approximately 14" from wall )

and

2) I understand the ramifications of not using a center drain in terms of differences in first row tile height, but does anyone have a picture of what this actually looks like? How noticeable will this really be to the average eye?

If I don't go with my current setup (with Kerdi bench), my only other option is to use a better bench in place of the kerdi bench (and seam my remaining tray back in place) OR relocating the current drain 9" to the new "center....not really an option as there's a joist where this location would be.

Thanks for the input.
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Unread 12-13-2020, 10:13 AM   #28
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Dave, my very best recommendation would be to move the drain to the center of the shower footprint, divest yourself of that foam tray, and build a sloped mud bed to perfectly fit your shower footprint and drain location, have a level perimeter, and have a minimum slope to drain of the required 1/4" per horizontal foot, none of which your foam tray will have.

As to the visual properties of the unlevel perimeter, the average eye matters not at all for your shower, only the eyes of Dave and Mrs. Dave would be important. Much will depend upon the size of your wall tiles, but once you notice that 3/8ths" difference, you'll never be able to un-notice it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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