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Unread 07-30-2021, 05:13 PM   #1
Porkface
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Porkface's New Basement Bathroom

Hi All,
I have a new-to-me house, in a new location, with a someday-to-be-completed new bathroom in my new basement and I have a question(s).

I'm using a 34'x60" fiber shower pan in the new bathroom. I plan to use Durorock CBU with Kerdi membrane. The CBU (and tile) will go from pan to ceiling.

The pan is not inset into the studs so I'm using shims to raise the CBU over the edge of the shower pan lip. The shims are 1/8" on the back and right side wall and 5/16" on the left side wall. The right side wall extends 4 1/2" to a corner and the left side wall extends 7'.

My question is how do I deal with the difference in thickness between the CBU (1/2" CBU plus 1/8" or 5/16" shims = total 5/8" on right or 13/16" on left) and the 1/2" drywall? The CBU will extend up to 3/8" proud of the drywall in some places.

Thanks for your help!
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Unread 07-30-2021, 08:21 PM   #2
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Welcome back, Tony.

Is Kentucky your new location or the old one?

Photos would certainly be helpful here, but if I understand the layout I would recommend you move the receptor (what is this "fiber" material?) such that it butt against the long wall and do all the necessary build-up on the short wall.

Is that a potential option?
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Unread 07-30-2021, 09:20 PM   #3
Porkface
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Thanks, CX. I've been lurking off and on without signing in but we've moved and I have new tile projects and questions. Kentucky is the new location.

The shower has three walls; right, back, left. The receptor is a fiberglass 34"x60" shower pan. The shower pan does butt against the long back wall and also has the 1/8" shims.

I don't think the pan can be moved/adjusted for a better fit. Unfortunately the shower space isn't exactly square which accounts for 1/8" shims on the right side and 5/16" on the left side.

First photo shows the shower area, second photo shows the drywall to CBU joint but it's difficult to see how proud the CBU is to the drywall (3/8" to 1/4").
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Unread 07-30-2021, 09:27 PM   #4
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Reoriented photos.
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Unread 08-01-2021, 09:46 AM   #5
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Welcome, Tony,

I don't see a lot of options. You could just a whole mess of drywall compound and feather it out as far as possible from where the CBU abuts the drywall but that still leaves a decidedly un-flat wall and would be difficult to get the thickness consistent given the corners.

It would be more work, but not terribly more expensive, to just remove the drywall, shim as necessary, then install new drywall.
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Unread 08-01-2021, 10:04 AM   #6
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I would agree with Dan, except in the case of other fenestrations in that wall, if any. That would require a good deal more work with jamb extensions, etc.

And easier than shimming might be to simply add a second layer of drywall over the existing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-02-2021, 10:28 AM   #7
Porkface
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I've been thinking over my options. I think I'm going to wait until the CBU is up to see how much it sticks out. If as expected it's about 1/4", I'll add a layer of 1/4" drywall to bring it close (hopefully) to even. The extra layer of drywall will help reduce sound transmission so it's not all rework. The are just a four plumbing penetration on the wall and the vanity light.

Thanks for the suggestions!
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Unread 09-14-2021, 06:07 PM   #8
Porkface
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Kerdi Drain Question

After several setbacks on our basement shower, I've pulled the fiberglass shower pan and am going to install a Kerdi shower. Looks like I'll be doing the work myself since we can't find a contractor willing to work on it.

The plumber butchered the pvc drain for the fiberglass pan trying to make a drain installed for a 36" wide pan fit into a 34" wide pan. This is in a basement cement slab. I'll probably have to go back to in front of the trap to get to pipe I can work with. I've found several threads referencing horizontal adjustment of the Kerdi drain but I can't find specific information. Can someone point me to the information or tell me how much horizontal adjustment the Kerdi drains have so I have some idea how close I need to be.

Thanks,
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Unread 09-14-2021, 07:33 PM   #9
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You need to be very, very close, Tony. I'm thinking the actual adjustment of the Kerdi drain is half an inch or maybe a bit less, but I've not installed one for a couple years. I know it can be helpful making the drain grate fit the tile layout, but it's not a lot.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-14-2021, 08:02 PM   #10
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Thanks CX.
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Unread 10-17-2021, 05:30 PM   #11
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Forum Search Question

I've been trying to search the forum for info but my searches are returning too many threads. I've read the FAQ and have been trying Boolean Searching but it doesn't seem to work. When I enter a search phrase in quotes, the search returns results for each word, not the phrase. The + operator doesn't work for me either.

Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
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Unread 10-17-2021, 06:22 PM   #12
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Self Leveling Compound Questions

I've ground the sealer off the concrete floor in the bath I'm working on and I have a few questions about leveling the floor.

1a) I've had to excavate the shower drain to access the drain pipe. When I redo the trap and drain I'll refill the hole with removed gravel to the bottom of the slab. Then I need to fill from the gravel to the top of the slab before leveling. What material would you recommend? Concrete?

1b) Do I remember correctly that I also need to leave space in the floor fill/patch for the Kerdi drain to attach?

2) Anyone have recommendations for SLC? I'm considering Rapid Set Levelflor, Henry Floor Leverer or Level Pro or Mapei Self-Leveler Plus. I'm looking for ease of application and longest working time. I'm not in a hurry to set tile the same day as leveling. I expect cover about 75 sq. ft. with leveler with two (opposite) corners needing 1" to 1 1/2" of leveler.

3) Instructions I've read state to continue joints and cracks though the leveling compound. How do I do this?

4) The shower and toilet drains needed to be relocated so I have two concrete patches in the floor. One looks well sealed but the other not so much. Can I just use acrylic caulk to make sure the patch is sealed or should I patch with cement?
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Unread 10-17-2021, 06:52 PM   #13
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Did you try those methods in the Advanced Search feature, Tony?

1. Concrete. You can use a short piece of 4" PVC pipe, which must be removed, or a 4" PVC coupling, which you can leave in place if you want.

2. They all work, some easier to use than others. I'd avoid anything that says "rapid" or "quick" in the name or description. You'll find all of them a bit too rapid if working alone.

That's a lot of depth and you might wanna consider using some pea gravel as filler in the deeper areas. Read the instructions for the SLC you're using to be sure that's permitted, but it generally is.

3. Depends upon the type of joint and the type and size of the crack.

4. 'Fraid you've lost me there. Sealed to what? Or from what?

Some photos would likely be helpful here.
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Unread 10-18-2021, 11:22 AM   #14
Porkface
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CX - My searches were with the basic search page. Thanks!

1) A 2" PVC shower drain pipe will extend above the floor until the Kerdi drain is installed after SLC. How much space does the Kerdi drain need? How deep should I set the 4" PVC pipe? Should the 4" PVC set on top of the gravel, then add concrete around it to the top of the slab? Or...?

2) I think 'Rapid Set' is the brand name. I was leaning towards this product because the instructions for the Rapid Set Levelflor says I have about 20 minutes working time (vs about 15 minutes with Hapei or Henry). It also says it can go from 1/8" to 2" without adding pea gravel (up to 5" with). Since I have no experience with this should I add pea gravel anyway?

I have no idea how easy it is to work with. I found positive comments on using Mapei and Henry SLC on these forums so I was hoping to get some feedback from someone who's used the Rapid Set.

3) I have two joints (expansion/crack stop joints?) set when the floor was pored and one stress crack. See pictures. Should I just cut the SLC down to the concrete joints after the SLC has cured?

4) I've added some pictures to help clarify. The seam around the toilet drain, between the concrete slab and the patch, seems to seal the hole. I don't think SLC would leak below the slab.

The seam around the old shower drain, between the concrete slab and the patch, may have some gaps so I'm asking how I should seal those gaps.

5) Another question related to #2 above. I read that I need to use a crack isolation membrane around the joints and stress crack. I assume this goes over the SLC and directly under the thinset mortar and tile?

Thanks for the help!
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Unread 10-18-2021, 03:06 PM   #15
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1. Look in the Liberry for the actual dimensions of a Kerdi drain if you don't have yours in hand, Tony. I don't recommend leaving the drain riser run above the concrete level. Much easier to cut it to length before making the concrete patch. Easy enough to lay a straight-edge across the hole to measure for the correct height. Then the 4" pipe or coupling must be very closely centered around the drain riser.

2. You want to be sufficiently equipped and prepared that you don't use anything close to 15 minutes between one pour and the next.

The pea gravel is just to save some SLC. Stuff is not inexpensive.

3. I would not honor anything I see in your photos except the long control(?) joint across the doorway, or whatever that opening is. See my warranty information below. You could cut it later, but easiest to just cut it with a margin trowel or similar before it's completely hardened if possible. Preparation again will be the key.

4. Were it mine I'd likely mix up a handful of the SLC or similar material in a small bucket and putty up all those areas I thought might leak. I would do this before even starting to prepare for the SLC pours.

5. That would be correct.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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