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Old 01-15-2012, 02:24 AM   #1
fantomas
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fantomas' 5x7 Bath Remodel

This is a bit of a narrative so I'll bold my questions so they don't get lost if you don't want to read everything.


Well, in November I finished building a 12'x12' master bathroom with 4'x12' walk-in closet (somehow still not big enough for my wife).

I am now in the process of remodeling the other bathroom in my house, a minty green 5x7 retreat (haha yea right!). I started the demo last Monday. I removed the toilet, sink, medicine cabinet, and sledge hammered out the 1950 cast iron tub (original to the home).

Above the tub and throughout the rest of the bathroom it had green 6"x6" plastic tiles. There was(is still for now) a wood frame window in the shower, and below that behind where the tub was I have quite a mold issue. It appears to be black mold on the cripple stud, the two studs on either side of the window, and about a 3'x2' area on the exterior sheathing. Is there a treatment I can use to remedy the affected areas? I need to install sheathing for when I remove the window, so replacing that portion of the sheathing isn't out of the question, but I'd prefer not to have to replace the studs if need be.

Now the next problem... It's certainly a tight bathroom, and the toilet is right next to the door (see attached picture). During the demo, I noticed that there were no plastic tiles on the wall directly behind the tank of the toilet (the toilet tank is essentially touching the wall). I haven't measured the new toilet yet (12" rough in Cadet 3 with round seat) so I'm not sure if it is as deep (or deeper), but was wondering on what I could do to give myself a little more clearance so I can tile about 4' up on the wall without having to NOT tile behind the tank?

I will not be relocating any of the DWV if I can help it, plus I don't want the toilet blocking the door.

The only other solution I can think of is maybe if I use the 1/4" hardiboard on the wall up to 4', tile on that, and use 1/2" sheetrock above that. Would that transition look weird?

I think that's all my questions for now....
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #2
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Scott,

1- They are never large enough. But you already knew that.

2- I hope you salvaged the tub, terlit and sink for those whacko preservationists folks who want to restore their homes.

3- We normally treat surface mold with a few doses of ordinary household bleach. Let it dry in between. You can use some other concoctions if you'd like, there are many out there, but after seeing what bleach does to hurricane flooded, mold encrusted 2x4's, I'll stick with the bleach.

3B- I hope you are replacing the window with something solid vinyl, right?

4- Start by dryfitting the new terlit. That would be your starting point as many new terlits have more wiggle room. There are also 10" terlits which accomodate plumbers who don't own a tape measure. If you are over wood subflooring you can move the flange. If you are over ceement, you can move the flange with a bit of effort. Let us know about the dry fit before getting too far ahead of yerself.

5- How about a pocket door?
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
1- They are never large enough. But you already knew that.
In all fairness she was using an entire spare bedroom...but now with a baby on the way... she had to move out

Quote:
2- I hope you salvaged the tub, terlit and sink for those whacko preservationists folks who want to restore their homes.
I'm sad to say the tub is in a few large pieces, and a thousand tiny pieces. I have the sink and toilet (sink is in a pile in the garage ready to go to the dump and the toilet is currently a lawn ornament in front of my house). I had no idea that they would be in such demand. Maybe the tub, but there was no way I was getting that out in one piece... I swear they must have built the house after installing the tub.

Quote:
3- We normally treat surface mold with a few doses of ordinary household bleach. Let it dry in between. You can use some other concoctions if you'd like, there are many out there, but after seeing what bleach does to hurricane flooded, mold encrusted 2x4's, I'll stick with the bleach.
I've read about the bleach, then I read that it was no good (ironically, the websites saying bleach was no good was also selling mold abatement services). Also read about the vinegar/boric acid/H2O2 concoction... I might go ahead with the bleach on the studs and replace the sheathing

Quote:
3B- I hope you are replacing the window with something solid vinyl, right?
I'm not sure I've read enough of your posts to figure out if you are anti-window-in-the-shower or not. If you are anti-window, you'll be happy. If you are pro-window, I'll be sorry to disappoint. The only vinyl going up is new vinyl siding where the window is.

Quote:
4- Start by dryfitting the new terlit. That would be your starting point as many new terlits have more wiggle room. There are also 10" terlits which accomodate plumbers who don't own a tape measure. If you are over wood subflooring you can move the flange. If you are over ceement, you can move the flange with a bit of effort. Let us know about the dry fit before getting too far ahead of yerself.
I'm lucky enough to have a mostly full basement. (dirt crawl space under the new master bath, which was fun ). Anyways, I have good access to the "D","W" and in the attic, the "V". Plumbing doesn't specifically scare me, but I know why they are able to charge so much. I'll just pray this toilet is a bit more low profile.

Quote:
5- How about a pocket door?
I didn't even think about this. I will DEFINITELY look into it... I'll have to relocate the electrical but it may work out...
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #4
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I'm pro window when they are installed well. Taking the window out is fine too.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:29 AM   #5
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We have a bath just like that, except that the positions of toilet and sink are reversed. It's a much more sensible organization, but I can also see why you don't want to mess with DWV. I would love a wall mount toilet to get back some floor space, but it would mean moving another toilet flange. One of those projects was enough.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:36 AM   #6
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Well, I have half of the puzzle figured out. The new toilet needs AT MOST 11 5/8" to the finished wall. I'm thinking I may have a little wiggle room... The toilet has been sitting in the garage in single digit temps so I really wasn't too keen on bolting the tank to the toilet until it acclimates to (inside) room temps. Anyways, I measured with the tank push as far back through the bolt holes as possible without the gasket.

I'm trying not to make too much noise until my wife wakes up so I can't exactly measure the actual rough-in opening in the bathroom.

Also, my time frame for this whole bath is to be done by the Superbowl (throwing Superbowl party)... and at the latest by mid April (baby due end of May)
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:42 AM   #7
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We have a bath just like that, except that the positions of toilet and sink are reversed. It's a much more sensible organization, but I can also see why you don't want to mess with DWV. I would love a wall mount toilet to get back some floor space, but it would mean moving another toilet flange. One of those projects was enough.
I would love for it to be reversed like yours, but I'd go with a 10" RI toilet before having to change the drain locations..
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:41 PM   #8
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Go Pats!!!

We won! on our way...
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:59 PM   #9
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We won! on our way...
I don't think I mentioned I was a Patriots fan anywhere, so I can only guess you meant this for some other thread?

Anyways, lucky guess, I am a Patriots fan. I watched the game while finishing framing out for the shower/tub... I knew the Ravens would be tough but I think the Pats shouldn't have won that game.... (as in, they didn't play too great)
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:56 PM   #10
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Assumed you were a Pats fan!

I saw the word Superbowl the other day while I was reading your thread. I think it was the same day we watched the Pats beat the Ravens. I myself was thinking of having a Superbowl party.

I just finished having my entire bathroom demolished today. The ceiling is gone and I can see through to the attic. I had a shower stall removed with an old copper pan. It's hard to believe it was over 40 years old.

My footprint is almost the same as yours. Tomorrow we put a new window in the wall.

Not sure if we should do the walls or floor first? The book Tile your world says to do the floor first.

GO PATS!!!
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:35 AM   #11
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I getting ready to put the tub in so I can get this project hurried along. I'm using a fiberglass tub and surround, will be tiled on the walls and ceiling above the tub enclosure. The 5' section of tub is on a north-facing exterior wall. Above the bathroom is an unheated attic space

I'm about to put in the insulation...
Now my question is, is the kraft paper suitable for the exterior and attic insulations? or should I use 4 mil plastic?

Theoretically, the fiberglass enclosure should be waterproof, it's not a steam shower, and I will be installing an 80 CFM Panasonic bath fan for ventilation. Not sure if that is overkill for the size bath, but the "50 CFM" Nutone fan that was in there before barely helped with the moisture problem at all (also not sure if that is just the nature of such a small bath).
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:06 AM   #12
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Your bathroom vent fan must be able to exchange the total volume of your bathroom air at least 8 times an hour. A 50 cfm fan should have been adequate for this bathroom. Perhaps the fan wasn't working properly or there was too much restriction in the exhaust duct.

Kraft paper is a vapor retarder. Plastic is a better one. As to which is required in your area, contact your building inspector or get access to the building code that's applicable to your home.
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