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Unread 05-10-2021, 04:47 PM   #1
Buck01
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Wet Saw Blade Drift

I am seeking tips to prevent blade drift when cutting 45 degree miter on 12x24 tiles with wet saw. Prefer to use wet saw if possible vs cut with grinder. Thinking of trying multiple depth cuts to see if this helps. Recs welcome. Have new P4 blade but drift is still a problem
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Unread 05-10-2021, 06:53 PM   #2
Tool Guy - Kg
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Drift is most often caused by mid-alignment of the blade & tray....or the blade is not uniformly sharp.

Have you looked into alignment fixes...or sharpening the blade?

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Unread 05-10-2021, 08:56 PM   #3
Buck01
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Thanks Tool Guy. I know blade is sharp. Will double check alignment
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Unread 05-10-2021, 10:02 PM   #4
smifwal
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could be that you are pushing too hard and the blade can't cut as fast as you are pushing, causing the blade to deflect
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Unread 05-10-2021, 10:28 PM   #5
Snets
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In my limited experience, making multiple passes in depth works. The finished edge cut is all you may see, if you can get that correct, with no drift, you are well on your way to a perfect finish, even if you have to grind below that where it will be hidden with grout.
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Unread 05-11-2021, 05:03 AM   #6
Davy
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What Bubba said. Make sure you're getting good water flow on both sides of the blade. Sometimes the hose on one side will get partially blocked causing that side of the blade to wear more.

Also, some blades are made thinner and more flimsy than others. I've seen that problem with thin blades.

They make sharpening stones for blades. I've always used a yellow fire brick for this. The type that mason's use for the firebox of a fireplace. 4 or 5 rips thru the brick usually helps expose new diamonds.

You say you have a P-4, what brand is that?
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Unread 05-16-2021, 11:53 AM   #7
Buck01
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Blade Question

Blade is a Pearl P4 mesh blade
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Unread 05-16-2021, 02:15 PM   #8
Lazarus
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I can add that, doing a miter cut, in many cases, using a 10" blade is not the best. These blades tend to "wander" and "deflect" by a considerable amount.

I used a 10" blade for years and recently went over to a 7" blade with a reinforced hub and found it quite stiffer. Made the cuts flawlessly.

Sure, you can make progressively deeper cuts and that works pretty well...but, time consuming. I changed out from a "Diamondback" 10 saw to their 7" unit and never looked back...

Here is a video on that saw. On mine, I DID add some hard rubber, adhered to the tray to aid in holding the tile down and not slipping...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8R6eQmdKyk&t=8s
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Last edited by Lazarus; 05-16-2021 at 02:25 PM.
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Unread 05-16-2021, 09:21 PM   #9
Tool Guy - Kg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck01
Thanks Tool Guy. I know blade is sharp. Will double check alignment
Because it's new or because you've sharpened it?

Also, can you tell us how hard your tile is? I ask because Pearl lists this blade for extra hard tile. That means that the matrix that holds the diamond bits is also very hard. If you’re cutting material that isn’t as hard as the blade intends, the tile will fail to grind away the matrix as the diamonds wear...meaning that it’ll go dull in a relative short amount of time.

Also, can you tell us if you’re sliding table is dead flat to the blade? Like, if you were to set the blade at 90 degrees and set the saw depth to make a light score on top of the tile, will it maintain this same depth the entire length of the tile? If not, the table is sloped from front to back. While this doesn’t affect the tracking of cuts made at the normal 90 degrees...it does mess up the straightness of a cut when you tilt the blade to 45 degrees.

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