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Old 08-10-2018, 03:07 PM   #1
mlawler626
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[Help] Tiled Shower Alcove & Curb/Drywall Transitions...

Hey folks, I need advice on this bathroom remodel for the shower. I've ripped out the fiberglass shower shell and am getting things ready to make the tiled shower. I will be using the Goof-Proof Pre-Pitch, Quick-Pitch, and Kirb-Perfect system for the shower mortar bed & curb. Anyways, my questions are: [1] How much should I set back the 2x4 curb studs (shown as red-dashed line) from the drywall? (One guy I asked says he sets it back 1" to his mortar-prepped curb). OR should I set the 2x4's close to flush and let the Curb protrude a bit out of the alcove so that the baseboard at linen closet butts right into the curb?

[2] How do I finish the two corners (one 90, other 45) where it meets the existing drywall (shown purple in sketch)? My 12"24" tile does not have bullnose finish... I was going to run the cement board out to each corner and cover with corner beads... but I do not have a good way to terminate/hide the side of the tile. Should it run to end or stop short? My thinking now is to use the aluminum metal schluter bullnose trim and have the edge terminate away from the corners and on top of the threshold (back from its edge).

I'm planning on using a solid marble threshold on top of the curb. If I allow the curb to protrude slightly out of the alcove... then I guess I will have a small notch on the threshold where it meets the 45 degree closet wall.

The blue area of sketch is 36"36" ...so it is a small area. I would like to use as much of the space as possible.
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:15 PM   #2
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...sorry, the images got rotated 90 degrees from how they are on my phone. The sketch shows the top view of course.
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:48 PM   #3
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Schluter makes all sorts of good tile trims for different angles and different tile thicknesses. They're all excellent and will make your installation look good by hiding the tile edges. If in doubt, pick the next deeper one, especially with large format tile. E.g., your tile is 3/8 in thick, don't pick the 3/8 in thick trim piece but the 1/2 in. to accommodate for the additional mortar under your tile. Otherwise, your tile will stand proud of the trim. For smaller tile, trim piece thickness and tile thickness should be the same.

If you have a 135 deg. outside corner (is that what you're suggesting?), then this might work:
https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...O-DE/p/DECO_DE

I've used that very profile. Worked great. It is only available in stainless steel, though, and not cheap.

I'd really avoid the goof-proof pitch thing. It'll potentially weaken your mortar bed by basically cutting it into smaller sections with its plastic arms. You can do a nice slope with a bit of patience and save yourself some money.
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Old 08-10-2018, 04:11 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply... I'm actually thinking now that the tile will stop somewhere on top of the curb threshold (so the Schluter bullnose trim will not go beyond the curb edge)-- back from the curb edge, but I do want the tile to extend past where the frameless glass door will mount. The threshold will be ~ 5.75" - 6" wide. I've already bought the goof-proof kit... and lack patience-- doing a basketweave on the master bath floor (1st time ever doing tile) has consumed what patience I had... plus one of the tiles I put down on my first "thinset" day is too low-- so I get the pleasure of cutting it out and re-doing it.
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:11 PM   #5
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Another way to do the curb/jamb is to run the same slab marble the same width up the jamb to the ceiling. The edges can be polished along the outside edge and tile to the marble on the inside edge. The marble would be just a little thicker than the tile but it looks fine. If the ceiling is going to be tiled, the slab can continue across there too. That way you have the whole jamb framed in marble. When doing it this way, I would also run a small piece of marble, say 2-3 inches on the outside wall of the shower, turning the corner.

If you wanted to delete the plastic curb, you can turn a 2x4 on it's edge and mud it like the liberry shows. That would make the curb about 2 more inches narrower.
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:25 AM   #6
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It's possible to bullnose some porcelain tile as well. You'll have to find a shop that will do this for you then you don't need to do anything but set the tiles on the wall and grout the gap. Not all tiles will work with this though.
Also just fyi tip don't use those spacers you used in the floor for the walls. Those will start to squish under the weight of the tile and really screw up your joint lines. Get the hard plastic ones.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:42 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies-- and thanks Joe for the heads up on the spacers... I've framed out the bottom of the shower using a 2x10. Now I'm trying to decide where to put the curb 2x4 (before I put it down with Liquid Nails and Tapcon comcrete screws... this was one of my original questions. The attached pic is where I am thinking... I have it centered on this middle stud... well not truly the middle-- I added a 2x4 at the bottom and have room to put in 2x4 segments above the outlet (moving the wire anchors)... That "middle" stud is where I'm thinking the frameless glass door will be mounted.

Is that curb placement good? Any gotchas later? Or should I move it inward?
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:49 PM   #8
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Still looking for advice from previous comment #7...

...but now the Oatey Shower drain flange is installed.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:00 PM   #9
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I'm assuming you're going to have a traditional PVC liner for this shower.

You can set the curb back 1/2" or more as needed, just not less than that. You could even rip it down to 2" to make it a bit narrower and add more space to the floor. You just want enough space on the outside to put mud over it flush to the drywall.

How far is the lower section of the drain, the one in the picture above, set above the slab, or is it flush?
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:41 PM   #10
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Hey Kevin, the flange was installed flush... I had a void area underneath it after digging out the foam... with some deep research I found a Quikrete product called "Foam Coating" that bonds to foam (for use on Stucco homes)... it has great compressive strength and will bond to the concrete as well. Can you clarify your comment on the curb? Do you mean inward or outward?
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:44 AM   #11
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I mean you can set the curb back from the outside 1/2" or more.

If you're using a PVC liner, you're going to need to raise that flange about 3/4" minimum to allow for the preslope mud bed.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:25 AM   #12
mlawler626
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Kevin,

The instructions (and Oatey tech support) stated that the base flange of the Oatey 3 piece drain should be flush to the concrete surface.

Additionally, I am using the Goof-Proof Quick Pitch system to properly slope the mortar bed. It has a collar and ribs that fit on/over the drain. Thanks.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:34 AM   #13
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Of what material do you plan to make your pre-slope under your Oatey liner, Michael?

If Oatey wants you to have the bottom of your drain flange flush with the top of your concrete, how do they propose for your to create the necessary pre-slope to end at zero thickness at the drain flange?

If you use those plastic divider strips to make a pre-slope above your drain flange, how will you install your liner?
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:38 AM   #14
mlawler626
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@ CX,

I am planning to use the Goof-Proof PRE-Pitch System on the concrete substrate that will give me a small pitch. These are set back from the drain flange. The Oatey Liner will go on top of that... then the Goof-Proof Quick-Pitch ribs and collar for the mortar bed. I will use the same mortar for both the pre-pitch and quick-pitch beds.

Pre-Pitch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDJOU8AQCRc&app=desktop

Quick-Pitch:
https://youtu.be/S4Ek1CwTQ7s
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:10 AM   #15
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That's just far too thin at the drain for deck mud, Michael. There are no requirements in the ceramic tile industry for pre-slopes because the pre-slope is technically part of the plumbing. But it still needs to be a solid foundation for the shower floor.

Those Goof Proof plastic dividers are simply not worth the time and trouble, in my opinion, but I don't mind them so much in a pre-slope situation. In the final deck mud for the shower floor, however, I just don't want the plastic dividers marking where the floor tile is likely to crack.

Deck mud is just too easy to master to bother with such systems, but you're certainly welcome to use them if you choose and I wish you good luck with the installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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