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Old 07-24-2018, 10:09 AM   #1
JTW2018
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Slab not Flat?

Hi, this is new to me so forgive me if this is a dumb question. I've searched on the forum an google and can't find an answer.

We removed our fiberglass shower pan yesterday and and intended to cover it with a mud bed for a new shower using Kerdi boards and then tile. When the shower pan was removed, there was mortar on the slab.

Do we need to scrap off the mortar before starting the mud pre-slope?

Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:24 AM   #2
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Welcome, Jennifer.

Depends upon what the "mortar" is and what condition it's in. If it is a cementitious material and well bonded, you need only remove all the loose parts, cover the remainder, slather it with a slurry of Portland cement or thinset mortar, and cover that will your deck mud while the slurry is still wet.

A photo may be helpful. Use the paper-clip icon above the Reply dialog box to attach photos from storage on your computer.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:16 PM   #3
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Jen's Shower Remodel

Hi, I've never done this before so I know I will very ignorant.

We moved our shower fixtures to the adjoining wall so that we could have a bigger shower. We had to accommodate a window and the one way to elongate the shower and have the door not face the shower head was to move the fixtures. They are on an external wall but this is AZ so we don't need to worry about pipes freezing.

So the plumber moved the fixtures and used pex. He notched the studs in the corner and the pex fits in the notch. However, we just noticed that the pipes are too short to fit perfectly in the notch so there is no way to put up the Kerdi board with a 90 degree angle in the corner.

I've attached a picture.

Any advice? My husband thinks we can expand the pex piping so it's long enough to fit in the notch behind the Kerdi board. Is that the only solution?
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:22 PM   #4
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If you paid a plumber already, Id ask that they return to fix the pipes. If that isnt an option, pex is pretty easy to work with and you could put two new runs of piping in.


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Old 07-24-2018, 08:26 PM   #5
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Jennifer, it will help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

I think the correct approach would be to call the plumber you paid to install that plumbing and invite him back to correct his error.

It may be that he cannot actually make the turn tight enough with what he's done to your framing, but if that's the case he could have installed elbows to make the corner.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:19 PM   #6
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Thanks!

The plumber is on vacation. He did our shower late monday night so he could go on vacation for 2 weeks. My husband and I have been watching Youtube videos about expanding pex piping and it doesn't look too difficult so we'll try to do it ourselves.

We just noticed that there are groups of long nails sticking through the wood sweating (not sure if this is the correct term?). This is the exterior wall. Under the insulation is a wood board with groups of long nails sticking through it. We have a typical AZ house with stucco. Could these nails cause a problem for the back of the Kerdi board? Should we cut them down? Attached is a photo.

Sorry for the multiple questions.

What are the guidelines for the dimensions of a doorless shower if you have a curb? How much distance needs to be between the opening and the shower head? The opening would not be opposite the shower head.
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Old 07-25-2018, 02:21 AM   #7
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Kerdi Partition Wall?

Sorry - more questions.

I just saw a Youtube video from Schluter showing how to make a partition wall with Kerdi board. Is this a real thing? I can't find anything on the web about this other than the Youtube video.

Since our shower fixtures are by a window, I considered installing a wall (is that a "wing wall"?) instead of a glass shower screen. It would contain the water and provide some privacy right by the window.

The ceilings in our bathroom are elevated so this wall could not be attached to the ceiling and I've read this means it could be unstable if constructed in the standard method using 2x4s.

Would Kerdi board be a reasonable alternative? We would tile around it on both sides.

Could I cut a niche into it?
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:49 AM   #8
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Regarding you plumbing issue Jennifer, from what I can see I don't think you are going to get that PEX to bend 90* without hacking more material from those already hacked studs. I had exactly the same challenge with a PEX line for my shower, I had to install a 90* fitting.

Also, what walls are those hacked studs on? The stud on the left looks pretty thin now, is that one on an exterior wall? Can you add a photo of them from a little farther back so we can see the studs from top to bottom?

Finally, is this bathroom job going to be inspected?
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Old 07-25-2018, 09:34 AM   #9
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No, there will not be an inspection because this does not require a permit. At least that is what I was told by the plumber. Perhaps I should have confirmed that with the city? I know people who have done similar things here and they did not get permits either. We've lived here almost 4 years (Phoenix suburbs) and everything construction-wise seems really lax here compared to where we came from in the midwest so I didn't question the lack of a permit.

Here is another picture. There is a water closet behind the shower which you can see in the picture.

I also attached a picture that shows the cut better on the stud.
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:25 AM   #10
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Jennifer,

That wall where the shower valves are located - is that an exterior wall? If so, do you know if it is a load bearing wall? That one stud is pretty compromised - even if it isn't an exterior wall.

Also, the other wall were the PEX is connected to the long copper pipes coming up from the floor; there really should be some kind of bracing installed for those copper pipes so they're not just flopping around in there. Over time vibrations from water starting and stopping in those pipes could cause the fittings to fatigue, exacerbated by the long unsupported pipes.

Back to the corner. I'm not sure how you're gonna get that PEX to bend tight enough to make the corner. Even if you could, nailing plates - which are used to ensure no one drives a nail or screw into the pipes when installing the wall board, should be attached to the studs over the pipes. The additional challenge would be how to keep the PEX from rubbing on the edges of nailing plates.

I don't know about AZ, but here in VA anytime one alters the plumbing we are technically supposed to pull permits and have it inspected.
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:57 PM   #11
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Thanks.

Given the issue with the pipes, are we better off moving the shower back to the original wall with the copper piping coming up from the floor? I was thinking also that having access to the shower from an interior wall might be better so we don't need to tear down the shower wall if there is a problem in the future.

I'll look into the bracing for the copper pipes. They've been that way since the house was built 22 years ago.

I'm going to call the city directly about the permit.
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Old 07-25-2018, 02:04 PM   #12
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a permit would definitely be required for this work. not sure you wanna call the city now unless your going to obtain a permit.
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Old 07-25-2018, 03:19 PM   #13
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I called the city and we did need a permit. I'm supposed to call someone else tomorrow to find out what we need to do to fix this. ETA that people obviously do this kind of thing without permits all the time so maybe it's stupid to worry about it now. But I worry that it could cause problems if we try to sell the house which is not something we are planning for a long time but you never know.

I specifically asked the plumber if we needed a permit and he said no.
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Old 07-25-2018, 03:50 PM   #14
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Yes, people do major and minor remodeling work without pulling a permit all the time. If the work is done to code then the chances of it become a problem is greatly reduced. It's your call, Jennifer, if you want to pull a permit. But if the city has your name and number it might be a good idea at this point.

But from what I can see from here that work isn't done to code.

I am compelled to inquire again, is that one stud on an exterior wall? Because judging from the particle board sheathing it looks like it may be. If it is, that's most certainly a problem, and a big problem if that wall is load bearing.

IMO, you really, really need to find out.
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Old 07-25-2018, 03:51 PM   #15
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I don't know if the stud is load bearing or not but I think he cut a notch too big even if it was not load bearing. Based on what I read online, if it's not load bearing, the notch must not exceed 40% of the width. The stud is 3.5 inch and he cut 1.5 inches out which is more than 40% (1.4 inches by my math).

Thanks everyone! You've been very helpful.

ETA, yes, it is exterior.

I know it will complicate things but we are going to get a permit to fix all this. Maybe I'm paranoid but that's the only way I feel that I can be confident that it's done to code.
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