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Unread 08-28-2019, 09:02 AM   #1
RalphV
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drywall to tile corner

Hi. You guys have been really helpful in the past. I am redoing a bathroom with a new question. Can I lay a metal drywall corner bead on top of cement board at an outside wall corner? Will the bead be higher than the thickness of the thinset? Here's the setup: I have put in a new tub in a newly framed alcove. The wall at the back of the tub will get tile on the 3.5 inch end of the stud wall and hook up with tile or stone on inside of the alcove. I put a piece of hardie board on that 3.5" end and then put drywall on the back side of that wall flush with the hardie board, so the drywall covers the half inch thickness of the cement board. Would plastic L-bracket be a better choice than corner bead with the plastic flange lying on top of the CB?
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Unread 08-29-2019, 06:16 AM   #2
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If I understand correctly, Ralph, you have a simple 90* outside corner. One side of that corner (the "shower" side) has Hardie board on it, and the other side has drywall. You intend to set tile on the Hardie side, terminating the tile at the corner.

If you anticipate that corner staying pretty dry you could use metal bead but I see at least one challenge with that: you're going to, I think, have a heck of a time attaching the bead through the Hardie without destroying the edge of the Hardie - you'd have to pre-drill every hole.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 09:35 AM   #3
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I seldom ever terminate the tiles at a corner like that but depends where it's at. Some times we have to but I like to wrap the corner even if it's only a couple inches. If you do stop the tiles there, you'll need to finish the texture and paint to hide the edge of the Hardi board.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 11:45 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. I am wrapping the corner with tile, so there will be a column of tile about 4" on the alcove wall. The photo below shows the setup. The drywall bead will be in a dry location. I did try to find plastic, but the box stores don't carry it. I think I can get away with four nails on the CB side (which I can predrill through the CB) and a few more on the drywall side. The question is whether the bead will interfere with setting the tile. I measured metal bead and it would sit 1/8 proud of the CB. But isn't thin set at least 3/16ths? Seems like the tile could sit flush on top of the bead and have plenty of thin set to hold it. Or am I wrong?
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Unread 08-29-2019, 12:21 PM   #5
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Ralph, if you plan to tile to that edge I would recommend you not use any type of corner bead. The important thing is that the corner be near perfectly plumb and you can get a very straight, crisp edge using a drywall corner paper tape with metal strips on each side such as this one from your local Homer's.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 12:39 PM   #6
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First, the disclaimer... I'm just a DIYer (not a professional like some of the others here in the forum).

But If I understand you right, my first thought would be to do something like the following (which I believe is in line with CXs suggestion).

Name:  tile.jpg
Views: 149
Size:  9.4 KB

This would be a Top View.

The gray represents the CBU
The black outline represents DryWall
Yellow represents tile
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Unread 08-29-2019, 01:10 PM   #7
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CX and Joseph,
Thanks much. Those are great ideas. Unfortunately, I put in that drywall with the factory joint (tapered side) against the CB. So it is going to need some mud to make it flush with the rest of the surface of the drywall, which is why I was think about either corner bead or L-molding. Once again, why can't my travertine tile sit on top of the corner bead along that edge? Isn't the thinset going to be thicker than the 1/8th inch of the corner bead? Sorry if I am missing your point.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 01:29 PM   #8
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Some corner beads build out too far. I would probably fold backer board tape on the corner and use thinset over it.

Like Dan mentioned, nails or screws tend to break Hardi that close to the edge. It still might break after pre-drilling.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 02:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphV
I put in that drywall with the factory joint (tapered side) against the CB.
A sheet of drywall is relatively cheap...
Could you take down that sheet of drywall and do it over so that you don't have the taper at the corner?
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Unread 08-29-2019, 07:34 PM   #10
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Try it your way, Ralph. If it works to your satisfaction, you win. If not, the worst case is you gotta remove that bead and go to plan B.

But I gotta agree with the guys who say you're not gonna be able to use mechanical fasteners through your CBU without tearing up the corner. I've never tried it, though. I'd still just tape the corner and make it square.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-30-2019, 12:10 AM   #11
RalphV
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Thanks for the note CJ.
Another way to go may be using metal corner bead with paper attached, which you don't nail. The joint compound holds it in place. I could use a heavy duty compound, like Durabond for added strength. Would thinset bond to joint compound on the CB? If not, maybe I could use thinset on the corner bead paper to hold it in place and even fill in the CB so it is flush with the corner bead. I'm not going to do the tile work. I'll see what my tile guy wants to do. Thanks for everybody's advice. Much appreciated.

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Unread 08-30-2019, 06:36 AM   #12
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It'll all be covered with tile, if you corner has paper attached use thinset instead of joint compound. That will add even more strength. But, being outside the wet area, the joint compound will do.
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Unread 08-30-2019, 11:41 AM   #13
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It sounds like the purpose for the corner bead is to give you something to use to build up joint compound to account for the taper.

What if you instead finished the drywall last and use the tile as an edge to build up the joint compound?

Leave the drywall unfinished for now and fully install the tile such that the outside edge of the tile is flush with the un-tapered section of drywall. Then fill in the void caused by the taper using the edge of the tile as your corner bead.
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Unread 08-31-2019, 05:53 AM   #14
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If you are intent on filling that tapered edge, Ralph, I'd use one of the fast setting compounds - one that comes in a bag that you have to mix. They dry much harder than premixed compound. Then skim it with premixed to finish.

That said, I'd seriously consider replacing that sheet to eliminate the tapered edge as was mentioned above. You might spend more time/effort/money trying to make it work and look good than you would by simply replacing it.
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Unread 08-31-2019, 04:33 PM   #15
RalphV
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Thanks everybody for the input. I am not going to tear out the drywall, because it would be a big big hassle. I have a ceiling that is over 8' so I bought a 12' sheet that was bigger than I could normally handle. My back is still recovering. I could use the tile as a screed, as one of you suggested, but it would be lumpy. I would rather clamp a straight edge to the corner and fill in the taper that way. But I still like the idea of using a corner bead with paper that I would cement in with thinset on the CB side and Durabond (powered high strength joint compound) on the drywall side. I think I have a lot of solutions and any one of them will work.
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