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Unread 04-27-2010, 02:34 PM   #16
dhagin
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How old is the 272? How did you mix it - how much water : powder? Did you let it slake? Did you add additional water after slaking?

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Unread 04-27-2010, 03:52 PM   #17
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Not sure how old it is. I bought it from a large, and very busy, tile store in San Diego.
I didn't measure the water but just added mix until it was stiff enough to hold to my margin trowel. I did let it slake for 10 minutes and then remixed before using.
Started out stiff enough to hold to my margin trowel with only a few drips, but steadily got softer and softer. Eventually it was like cake frosting. Seems to have bonded well with the Kerdi, but it was insanely messy.
In a related note, I have learned not to wear sandals while hanging kerdi. Still picking thinset out from between my toes.
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Unread 04-27-2010, 03:59 PM   #18
dhagin
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Weird. Not sure why it would do that, maybe just try slightly less water... During Schluters Kerdi-Kamp training, the guys mixed it fairly loose so I think you'll be fine. I mix it so it holds a notch briefly, then begins to slump.
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Unread 04-27-2010, 04:02 PM   #19
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OK. What about when it comes time to set tile on the front face of the Kerdi?
It would seem like you would want something thicker for that? I'm thinking of switching to Versabond.
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Unread 04-27-2010, 04:30 PM   #20
dhagin
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272 is a premium dryset, I'd stick with that (pun intended) since you already have it. AND, you'll maintain the Schluter warranty.
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Unread 04-28-2010, 11:37 AM   #21
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Dana,
I will be setting 13-inch porcelain tiles on kerdi shower walls. I was wondering if versabond, because it is "slightly" modified, might be easier/better than 272?
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Unread 04-28-2010, 07:11 PM   #22
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Of course, you can use whatever you think is best. For me, if given a choice between 272 or versabond, I'd pick 272.

Schluter, and most pro's, know the bond of drysets (like 317, 272, Kerabond, Ditraset, etc...) to Kerdi is more than adequate. Have you read the Schluter Shower System Installation Handbook? There's a little discussion re; modified vs unmodified.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 01:25 AM   #23
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Paul, is it possible when you mixed the 272 that it just wasn't mixed evenly?

I have seen the consistency change in thinset from the top of the bucket to the bottom if not thoroughly mixed. Did you use a mixing drill and paddle or a margin trowel to mix?

Either way when you go to set your tile mix the thinset a little stiffer than what you used to bond the kerdi.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 11:48 AM   #24
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Yes. It is possible that I didn't evenly mix. I was using a mixing paddle and a big half-inch hammer drill that kept cutting out. Last night I read the manual for the drill, and found a way to adjust the torque setting before mixing a final Kerdi batch. Based on what you guys have said, I think I'll buy another bag of 272. The last batch came out a bit better than the first, though still not as stiff as I would have like for the tile setting.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 01:30 PM   #25
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Grout spaces

Hey everybody. Have made a fair bit of progress on my shower project. Got the Laticrete to work better for the tile setting.
Now for my latest head scratcher:
I set the bottom course of wall tiles with a 3/16 grout space between the tile and the floor. Haven't set the floor tiles yet.
I attached a crude drawing to show what I'm talking about.
Anyway, I'm thinking I probably should not have left this gap between the floor and the wall tile. Any idea how I should fill it (thinset, grout, caulk, peanut butter) before I set the floor tile?
I'm planning on sealing the gap between the floor tile and the wall tile with some sort of silicone caulk as a movement joint.
Thanks,
Paul
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Unread 05-17-2010, 02:01 PM   #26
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Leave it empty. Caulk between wall tile and floor tile, kinda like this:
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Unread 05-17-2010, 03:09 PM   #27
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Ok

Kinda surprised that the advice wouldn't be to fill the void with something, but you guys know your stuff.
Wait, couldn't water migrate through the grout and then down the kerdi into that void?
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:27 PM   #28
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Yes, that can happen, Paul. The same could happen if you grout that joint. Or if you leave it completely open.

The caulking there is an aesthetic treatment. Whatever water gets behind it should find a way to evaporate, perhaps as it is being forced by Sister Gravity irresistibly toward the drain.

Some people are very reluctant to caulk those joints, preferring instead to grout everything. They are bad people, as a rule, and genetically disposed to defying any authority, including industry standards. But the Tile Ranger and the Caped Caulking Crusader can't be everywhere, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:37 PM   #29
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Good point. Any way you look at it, some amount of water is going to get back there. I guess all we can do is hope the kerdi is watertight and sloped toward the drain.
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Unread 07-22-2010, 09:16 PM   #30
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Trowel size

Any recommendations on trowel size for these sheets of floor tile? They're full-body porcelain that measure two inch square and are connected by dots of white glue. Also, I'm assuming I can just set them without removing the connecting glue dots, but wanted to check on that as well. I bought them from our local Restore, and there was no box with instructions.
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