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Unread 08-23-2009, 06:39 AM   #1
duanec
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Fake marble shower pan with no flange

I have a shower pan that has no flange to put the cement board and tile over. I had to remove the fake marble walls do to the sheetrock behind it getting wet and the glue coming loose. I want to replace the sheetrock with hardiebacker bd and tile over it. With the lack of a flange how do I seal the gap to prevent the previous problem coming back? I do not want to replace the pan.

The hardiebacker is actually .42 inch thick is this a problem where it butts up against drywall ? What do I do with the seam between the drywall and backer bd?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 07:41 AM   #2
scuttlebuttrp
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I would use the waterproofing to seal the joint, tying the walls and pan together permantely.
Waterproofing and mesh will do the backerboard/drywall joint.
Thinset will bring your tile out to go over the drywall.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 07:53 AM   #3
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I know that the backer board should be about 1/4" above the pan. What is the product you talking about to seal that gap?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 08:09 AM   #4
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Welcome, Duane.

I'll hazard a guess that you have no actual shower receptor at all but just another section of the same material that was on your walls, shaped such that it slopes to a drain in the center. A drain that is sealed with caulking to the floor material.

That what you have there?

Have you any sort of flexible membrane sticking up from this floor? Up the walls and over the curb of the shower?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 01:41 PM   #5
scuttlebuttrp
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I'm thinking it's a one piece receptor thing?

Stick backerrod in there, then waterproof walls over rod to receptor. Tie waterproofing to receptor. e.g. if Kerdi, use kerdifix. TEC tripleflex would just be trowled over backerrod onto receptor. Redguard, painted over rod to receptor. etc......

So gap would be backerrod/ mesh tape/ waterproofing/ thinset/ tile with joint caulked at bottom.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 03:57 PM   #6
duanec
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Yes the receptor is a one piece prefab unit. Where can I purchase the products you mentioned? backerrod and various waterproofing? Does the waterproofing eliminate the need for plastic sheeting or tar paper behind the Cement board?
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Unread 08-26-2009, 08:30 AM   #7
duanec
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Need help with shower rebuild

I tore out the walls in my shower. The shower pan is of the fake marble type with no flange. There is sheetrock on the walls that goes all the way to the floor behind the shower pan. I am going to tear out the sheetrock and replace it with cement board. Is it o.k. to run the cement board to the floor behind the pan? If so how do I seal the gap between the pan and cement board?
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Unread 08-26-2009, 08:39 AM   #8
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no it is not ok.
fur out studs and get board on top of pan
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Unread 08-26-2009, 08:44 AM   #9
duanec
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Is there any other option ? If I furr out the studs in the shower the wall will stick out farther than the rest of the wall and I don't want to furr out the whole wall which is 12' long
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Unread 08-26-2009, 08:51 AM   #10
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Never mind, misread the post.
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Unread 08-26-2009, 09:08 AM   #11
interlodge
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how hard would it be to add a second layer of drywall over the other wall area to build that out, allowing you to then fir out the hardi.. Drywall is cheap for sure so if you can do that logistically it's a quick easy way to build that out.

Otherwise you could possibly use a small 1/4 spacer shim and 1/4 inch hardi and maybe that will get it and the vapor barrier out enough to clear the pan flange, I'm not so keen on 1/4 for walls but it's spec'd for it
"Q. Can HardieBacker 1/4'' board be used in a shower wall application? Is a vapor barrier required?
A: Yes, HardieBacker 1/4'' cement board may be used in a shower. "


keep in mind 1/2 hardi is not quite 1/2 inch if you use it when fairing to meet the second layer of drywall. (or you could even do 3/8 wallboard 3nd layer with just a bit of fairing.) You'll have to figure all that based on the combination and the size of your firring shims of course.
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Unread 08-26-2009, 09:11 AM   #12
interlodge
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sorry ...."(or you could even do 3/8 wallboard 3nd layer with just a bit of fairing.) ...

I mistyped. that should have been 2nd layer.

Not trying to create enless work for you for nothing!
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Unread 08-26-2009, 11:01 AM   #13
duanec
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There is no pan flange to clear. The pan has no flange at all. Does this change anything or does the cement board still nee to sit above the pan?
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Unread 08-26-2009, 11:10 AM   #14
Edthedawg
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How wide of a surface is there for the cement board to rest on? Is that surface tapered down slightly in towards the drain?

Seems you'd wanna leave a small gap (1/8" - 1/4") and silicone it, but I'm not fully understanding whatcha got there...

Don't worry about making the shower walls a little proud - just turn the termination line into a "feature" by building up a narrow strip proud of both walls over the joint, and tiling around it. (I can sketch that out for you if you want)
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Unread 08-26-2009, 11:48 AM   #15
duanec
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The pan edge is about 11/2 to 2" wide. It has a very slight angle towards the inside of the pan. How would you finish the side of the shower if it stands out about 3/4" from the rest of the wall?
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