Building a bathroom from scratch

[Brian in San Diego]

It’s ABS.

[speed51133]

In that case, use this: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Ch...3-Hub-4-Inside

Just set your tile leaving that pipe alone. The closet flange will be the last thing you put on. Once your tile work is all done, use this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-In...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

and cut the ABS pipe like a half inch below the tile. The closet flange I linked will glue to the inside of the pipe. The stainless ring should rest flat on your finished tile.

[cx]

If you're gonna do that, Brian, it would be easier to simply saw your riser off flush with the concrete before you start to tile.

And stuff something in the pipe to keep other stuff out 'till you're ready to set the terlit, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Brian in San Diego]

CX, I found this Oatey closet flange. I assume this one you are referring to. Are you suggesting this type due to better construction and longevity?

[cx]

That looks like an outside the pipe fitting to me, Brian. I had in mind one of the fittings that fits inside a 4" diameter pipe so you don't need to chip any concrete to accommodate it. I've seen those with a CI flange and with a bronze flange and with a stainless steel flange. I'd prefer any of those to a PVC or ABS flange just for the durability of the flange itself.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Brian in San Diego]

Got it. I think this one is the one you’re talking about. Thanks for your patience.

[speed51133]

nope, that one you linked to is all plastic. use the one I linked to previously.

[Brian in San Diego]

Mike, check the submittal page and it shows the 43653 is cast iron. There are others in the same family that are ABS and PVC.

[cx]

That one or the brass or stainless version would suit me, Brian. You could very likely get by with the PVC or ABS version, too, but they do have a tendency to break at the toilet mounting bolts. Second hand information for me as I've never used one of those plastic types.

In fact, nearly all my new installations on concrete slabs have been the old-style lead riser with brass flange. I've still got a good number of old-guy habits.

[Brian in San Diego]

Paul (Houston Remodeler) offered a tip for setting the niche. Thank you. I ended up buying a Schlüter niche. I had begun tiling and once I determined where my horizontally run listello was going to go, I installed the niche in such a way as to have the listello run through the middle of the upper compartment. I don’t know how the grout lines are going to end up, but I wanted the listello to be centered.

[Brian in San Diego]

Just a progress photo...

[Brian in San Diego]

Problem: The gap between the bottom tile of the shower walls and the mosaic tile for the shower floor is greater than I either anticipated or wanted.

Question: Would it be acceptable to apply Ditra or a similar product to the shower floor and set the mosaics on the Ditra? Or would that defeat the ability of the Kerdi to do its job?

[Kman]

How big are the mosaic tile? And how much of a gap will there be if the tile are set without Ditra?

[Brian in San Diego]

The mosaics pictured in a previous post are the ones in question. They measure 1 1/8” x 7/8” x 5/16”. They are on standard 12x12 nominal mesh sheets. The gap I measured appears to be 5/16”. I was shooting for the 1/8” grout joint I have throughout the shower...so to me it looks like the Grand Canyon.

[Kman]

Unfortunately, they are too small for installing over Ditra.

I'm trying to think of something else that would serve to build the floor up....

Any chance you could bump up to a tile that is 2" or larger? Then I wouldn't have to think so much.