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Unread 06-15-2022, 07:50 AM   #31
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
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You can just block in between the joists then you don't have to try to use the old tongue or groove of the neighboring sheet. That's usually how one would do it in a renovation like this.

So you buy a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood which doesn't need to be T&G and a 2x4. You cut the 2x4 and nail, or screw, it in between each joist on the long end of the plywood.

Then install the new plywood. You should block the other side of the plywood too. Then the seams are supported and it will feel quite solid once you have it fastened and are standing on it.

From there, you could install 1/2 inch cement board or Hardibacker, as CX suggested.

Another idea

I suppose you could also choose to install 1/2 inch plywood subflooring. Technically, you could adhere tile directly to that if you buy the right stuff but I don't like the idea of that. Especially in a bathroom.

You might consider installing something like Redgard over the top of it?

It keeps the height down so you can match your floors up. It stiffens up your floor a lot. And Redgard keeps the costs down vs a sheet membrane.

It's just another idea.
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Unread 06-15-2022, 08:00 AM   #32
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When you cut out the floor, you're going to have to cut 1-2 inches away from the wall, as shown in the photo.

The reason is that the wall sits on top of the floor so you won't be able to just slide the sheet out.

So you cut with a skill saw and you'll only be able to get within an inch, or so, of the wall.

Once you have that cut, measure over 48.25 inches and cut the other side. Yes, it will be past the seam. That's OK.

Then when you put the new sheet of plywood in you won't have to cut the width down- only the length.

Make sure to install 2x4 blocking in between each yellow line. That's 8 joist bays, by my count. Then fasten both sheets to the blocking on the seams.

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Unread 06-15-2022, 02:59 PM   #33
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Thanks- came home to my husband getting it about 3/4 of an inch from the wall with a plunge cutter, so I guess that’s our line. We planned on the blocking on the wall side already, and have enough to do both sides. Will assess which is harder- cutting the plywood skinnier or the hole wider as soon as we see how much glue is on the joists already.

We still have that 1/32” difference regardless in subfloor height?
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Unread 06-15-2022, 08:26 PM   #34
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Along with the 1/32" subfloor issue, and only seeing .688 actual sized plywood anywhere, not what we have, and so having to have a plan for that size difference, we are very confused about the toilet flange now!

It is too low; it was mounted on the 3/4 plywood, and so will be an easy 1.5" lower than the finished floor. The triple or so wax rings definitely added to our toilet leakage, and we want to raise it. But where do we cut it off to replace?
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Unread 06-16-2022, 06:47 AM   #35
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I'm not sure why you'd be 1.5 inches too low? If it was mounted on top of the 3/4 inch subfloor then you would only be .5 inch underlayment + .375 (+/-) tile correct?

Either way, look into these things. It's pretty normal to have the flange installed onto the subfloor.
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Unread 06-16-2022, 06:58 AM   #36
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I'm including the thickness of the thinset in my caculations, so 1/4+1/4 inch based on what I've seen?
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Unread 06-16-2022, 07:05 AM   #37
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The thickness would be whatever the distance is from the top subfloor to the hardwood in the adjoining room is. Then you would build your floor to hit that height.

Unless, of course, you're still planning on being higher than that. Then you would figure it to whatever height you plan on your floor being.

Another thing is that there is bound to be some deviation in your finished subfloor. It's pretty normal.

If you end up having only 1/32 over the whole subfloor once it's installed then that's a big success, IMO.
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Unread 06-16-2022, 07:53 AM   #38
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THe height difference between the top of the first supfloor to the top of the hardwood in the hallway is 1-3/16+". :/

With no additional plywood, we'd probably be at 3/8" tile + 1/4" thinset + 1/4" backer board (or 3/8 if we go get the 1/2") + 1/4" thinset, so 1-1/8 (or 1-1/4 with thicker backer) from subfloor to top. Correct?
And with 1/2 plywood added, we'd be a 3/8" tile + 1/4" thinset + 1/4" backerboard + 1/4" thinset + 5/16" plywood, so 1-7/16?

So I think my 1.5" includes if we do the 1/2" plywood. We haven't decided on that yet...but now thinking maybe adding it makes the 1/32 issue worse, as it will be on top of that transition, but going right to cement board would allow the thinset to cover that 1/32? Is my thinking wonky here?

My concert on the 1/32 difference between the plywood sheets is it's right in the main walking area; is this not an issue? I really want to avoid cracked grout there.

On the toilet flange:
I have seen no other way to get the sub floor over the flange than cutting it off and replacing it, also, so i think that regardless I'm cutting it off, correct?

If I'm cutting it off, what are the risks and benefits of mounting it to the cement board instead?
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Unread 06-17-2022, 07:41 AM   #39
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So, total height is 1 3/16th and your tile is, I'm assuming, a true 3/8. So you basically need to make up 13/16th + tile.

I think the way that you get there is 1/2 inch plywood underlayment and 1/4 inch backer board.

This is probably pushing things to the high side and it would be nice to swap out the backerboard for something like Ditra which buys you 1/8 inch. But, I know that you said cost was an issue.

Another way to get there is 3/8 plywood underlayment and 1/4 inch backer board. This is probably the route to go because it keeps costs to a minimum. I know some on this forum don't like 3/8 plywood but I've used it before and see no reason not to use it.

-------

You're being a bit generous with your thinset figures. Especially, if you are using small tile. The thinset below backer board is almost nothing- maybe 1/16th.

The thinset below the tile, depending on the selection, is probably about 1/16th for small tiles and more like 1/8th for larger tiles.

If you're within 1/16th of the hardwood when it's all done then you've done good. You put a small gap between tile and hardwood and you'll never notice a difference in those floors.

-------

Someone else will have to weigh in on the toilet flange. I think the exact proper way is to have it mounted on top of the finished surface which would be the tile.

But that happens so rarely and that's why they make extensions. Someone more knowledgable can weigh in, hopefully.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 07:17 PM   #40
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Thanks! Yest the tile is a true 3/8. That was our initial plan (1/2" on top of the 3/4"), and it's already in the garage. Mostly just nervous about it on top of the 1/32" difference seam now, which is right down the main walk space, but is that not an issue?

I wasn't sure about the actual thinset height, and did a lot of forum searching to pull those numbers, but it was hard to find actual numbers! Good to know it will be somewhat less!

It turns out we've given up on the flange and are having it professionally done on Tuesday, so it should end up fine, hopefully? (Just the rough in part at least, before we tile- we might end up putting the final flange on depending on cost).

Back to it tomorrow after a weekend of escape camping for father's day!
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