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Unread 10-03-2017, 12:19 PM   #1
jkull
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Archway- Need Advice or Help Please

So I have recently demo'd and retiled our powder room bathroom. We decided to leave the closet door off, turning it into a small walk in closet, and meanwhile make it into an archway.

I am not a tiler by trade but have taught myself over time and am fairly confident in a good bit, but knew that the archway might cause some difficulties once i reached that point. This everything is now complete EXCEPT the arch, and I'm a bit lacking in confidence on the proper approach here.

What I am asking for is guidance based upon these photos. I took one approach and cut/applied a few arch tiles (3rd pic down), but took them down bc I know they could be better and knew I wasn't doing it the proper way. Should I trace a template, lay it down, draw the lines all pointing right to the center point of the arch, then just cut the tiles to fit the template?

FYI: The jam is all stud, with dirta applied along the entire inside jam. The wall tiles are mortared directly to the dry wall. The jam are 3x6 subway travertine, the face tiles (on the wall), are 4x4 travertine.

I could use proper guidance or advice, or someone to complete this small bit of work for me. I am in south jersey, in turnersville, 15 mins from philly. Would appreciate the help.


**Im sorry the photos are uploading sideways.. But still viewable.
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Unread 10-03-2017, 06:40 PM   #2
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It looks like you need to go up one more course before starting your arch. A template would certainly help but basically you need to figure the wedge angle needed for all pieces.

It appears that you've taken an angle cut off one side of tile. You'd need to take whatever angle you've figured and split it. So, let's say you've got an 8° total angle, you'd need to make a 4° cut on either side.

If you made a template from a piece of cardboard and scribed inner and outer radius lines, then radial lines for desired tile width, you could lift patterns right off template.

Does that help?

FWIW, I'd draw this in Sketchup, which helps to work out kinks in design.

I attached a quick graphic, maybe this will help to visualize:
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Unread 10-03-2017, 06:58 PM   #3
Davy
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I would start at the center point of your string like Peter has it drawn. But I think I would lower it back down where your string is. At least to see how it would look. Either row you have the string, the bottom edge of the first tile will be level.
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Unread 10-03-2017, 07:28 PM   #4
mark999
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If you get a piece of poster board you can make a template or 2 and take out the trial and error with the tile.

Please send a picture when it is done. I think it is going to look great.
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Unread 10-03-2017, 08:00 PM   #5
jkull
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Thank you guys. Carbide, that's exactly what I was doing was only cutting one single side of the few arch tiles, ironically I knew that was not the proper way to do it but I continued to just see what I got. I think I may just make a template and go for it tomorrow. Was coming close to considering just trimming the arch but, maybe ill make a template and give it a go. Will keep this thread posted. Need to figure out if I should start where my last tile is or if I should raise the 'line' where the arch tile starts one more tile up as carbide showed. Thanks for that image you created. Highly appreciated. Will look fine without a keystone you guys think?
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Unread 10-03-2017, 09:00 PM   #6
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Also. I should not have to 'round' any of these tiles right. Im just cutting two parallel sides and not touching the outside of the arch side or the inside/jam side right?
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Unread 10-04-2017, 12:26 AM   #7
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To determine where to spring the arch from, the radii should be equal horizontal and vertical. And yes, the inside and outside of segments will be flat and parallel. The highlighted segments illustrate this.
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Unread 10-04-2017, 02:26 AM   #8
JerseyDIYguy
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If you post the exact dimensions of the arched portion along with the exact dimensions of your tile and grout lines we can figure out the cut angles for your tiles.

Do you want the grout lines within the arch to be equal thickness across each tile? Or do you want them to taper slightly where each grout line within the arch would be slightly wider at the outside of the arch and then taper to be a tiny bit thinner at the inside of the arch)?

Also, do you want a narrower "keystone" tile at the top of the arch like Carbide shows, or do you want all the tiles to be equal sized?
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Unread 10-04-2017, 05:14 AM   #9
jkull
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Carbide-gotcha. Ill double check and find that point.

Warren- I'm not sure. I could be happy with the groutlines done either way. Initially I was thinking just keep them 'as close' to the size of the rest of the doorway as much as possible, the whole way around. As for the keystone I was thinking it might look best to have the center/keystone tile, taller than the rest of radius, so I was thinking I would cut down one of the 3x6 tiles that I used along the jam, for the keystone. I'd cut it down so it was just an inch taller or something.. with me? I also think it would probably look nicer if I did have it a little wider than the diagram shows (the width of the center tile of my jamb). However, it would be fine at that size. In trying not to be too picky as it may already be somewhat challenging for me. I guess my main question is , when I'm making my lines, from the center, on the template, I should start with drawing the keystone's lines first right? Like find my dead center point, straight upwards, then draw my keystone lines? theh just work my way outwards to each side, down the radius. That way I can have control of the size of the keystone from the get go I figure? Is this an okay approach?
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Unread 10-04-2017, 05:36 AM   #10
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An additional note. Carbide, you drew the mini template, having the arch tile grout lines staying in line with the door jam lines. This didn't have to be so but I realize there is a benefit to this now. I have the face tiles covering the reveal of the jamb tiles. So if I do this It should minimize issues with overhang or weird alignment of the face tiles to the jamb tiles. It also gives me a guide for width of my face tile cuts instead of troubleshooting essentially
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Unread 10-04-2017, 06:14 AM   #11
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For your grout lines in the arch it's probably easier to keep them a constant width. That way you can use spacers to keep things even.

For the keystone there's a bit of a quandary. It will depend on the dimensions of the arch and of the individual tiles. Having the larger tile aviailable for the keystone is a help (I like the look of a larger keystone). If you give me the dimensions of the arch and both your tile sizes I can knock something out quickly.
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Unread 10-04-2017, 06:56 AM   #12
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I drew the radii on illustration to bisect the grout lines on the jamb.

Assuming you're OK with that skinny keystone and you want grout joints to align with jamb, tape your template to the wall and pencil along the inside radius and mark where your grout joints are. From there you can do the rest on a table with a straight edge and "compass" which could be a string or trammel.
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Unread 10-04-2017, 07:23 AM   #13
jkull
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Jersey- would left jamb to right jamb width, and center of baseline up to the top/center of arch be enough dimensions? It essentially a perfect half circle or close enough bc i did nail up an arch kit into the jam that is cut to be a perfect half circle according to manufacturer. Would these two measurements be enough for you? Thanks!
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Unread 10-04-2017, 07:35 AM   #14
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Yes, the distance across the bottom of the semi-circle (the diameter), and the vertical height from a line across the bottom to the top of the arch (which should be half of the diameter if it's a perfect semi-circle). Also the size of each of your two tile sizes and the grout width you used on the side walls.
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Unread 10-04-2017, 07:57 AM   #15
jkull
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Used 3/16" in spacers the whole way.
Face tiles are 4x4.
Jamb tiles are 3x6.
-Left to right width is 25" IF based off of the line where I had my string at.
-If I go up a tile or so where carbide had it which is really more at where the half circle points would be, im at about 24 and 3/4th's" wide.
-Height from my center is 15" from MY string but from the 24 and 3/4 point, it is about 12".
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