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Unread 01-07-2021, 08:27 AM   #31
ss3964spd
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Given your 36X72 shower and multiple heads it'll be fine for two.

Are you still considering curbless, Phil? To CX's point; the slope of the foam pan will be fine in the 36" dimension, but may lack in the 72" dimension. In order to determine what the slope will be you need two bits of information on the foam pan: 1) how thick it is at the cut out for the drain and 2) how thick it is at the perimeter. Your goal is 1/4" slope per foot from the farthest corner.

I suspect the foam pan will be at least 1 1/8" thick at the perimeter. If you are also adding Ditra Heat the overall height of the shower floor is going to approach 2". How high can you raise the rest of the bathroom floor without causing a big step up at the entrance to the bathroom?
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Unread 01-07-2021, 11:20 AM   #32
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Did I miss the multi shower head info? I don't see it in the sketchup
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Unread 01-08-2021, 11:36 AM   #33
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We are still refining the design. We gave up on the open back design, it took up too much room. Will probably have opening on the side but no door. I will post a sketch when we get closer to a final decision.
The room is gutted. Shower tile was on drywall, wall studs are in good shape. I was surprised. A new window has been ordered. It is long and short (40x17) so we have more room under the window.
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Unread 01-12-2021, 08:22 PM   #34
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For various reasons including hopefully moving the toilet I have removed the subfloor. It is 3/4in Advantech. The floor joists are on 12 in center and are in good shape. Some work needs to be done to make the floor flat. I have a few questions on proceeding
1-For floor joists that are too low are there any methods other than adding a sister joist? Are there ways to add shims or thin strips to the top?
2-Should I go back with Advantech or can I just use 3/4in T&G plywood. Either way another layer of 1/2in plywood is also going down.
3-Are there any problems with adding insulation between the floor joists

I have included a picture of what they did to the floor joist when then plumbed the toilet. They just about cut completely through the joist.
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Unread 01-13-2021, 07:06 AM   #35
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Phil,

1) You can use drywall shims, install them with a stapler.

2) The only reason I'd want to use advantech is if regular 3/4" T&G B/C Exp 1 plywood turns out to be either slightly thinner or thicker.

3) I can't think of any. Is the space under the bathroom conditioned or unconditioned?

Gonna need to assess that joist, that's a pretty big hunk missing. How long is the joist and where along its length is the notch?
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Unread 01-13-2021, 08:00 AM   #36
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3-it is above conditioned space. Bathroom is on second story

They went 3 for 3 on notching floor joists when putting in the shower drain, tub drain and toilet flange. I will sister these. The toilet is 7 feet from the outside wall and maybe 7 ft to the support wall on the other side.
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Unread 02-15-2021, 08:39 PM   #37
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We have finalized our design and the plumbing has been moved. Every drain and water line had to be moved. I have moved the door to make the shower a bit wider than the original. Most of the floor joists have been sistered to get the floor flat. I still have a few simple design questions.
1- I am putting a digital Moen valve in the wall behind the tower to the right of the vanity. The controller will be on the wall in the shower. I can run the wire to the controller under the floor or up and through the attic. Is one route better than the other?

2- I am going to install Ditra heat. Light switches are between door and vanity. Is there a normal place to put the thermostat such as below or above the light switches? Any other suggestions?

3- I plan on putting an electrical outlets on the vanity wall next to each sink. Are there any suggestions of where additional outlets might go. Any suggestions for other locations. I have considered putting one inside each tower.
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Unread 02-15-2021, 09:18 PM   #38
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Just my thoughts on the questions asked:
1-once the wire’s run, it very unlikely to need to be bothered with again. Through the attic would give you access to pull additional or replacement wiring easier than through the floor; though I can’t see why you might need to.
2-where ever it’s handy and workable for the wiring. I’m assuming you’ll have mirror(s) on the wall behind the sink. Depending the room left over, maybe to one side or the other? Perhaps on the wall opposite the door?
3-hard to have too many outlets in the bathroom. GFI on one will protect the rest down the line. An outlet inside the cabinet could be used to plug in a shaver or such to charge. Consider USB outlets. We have a number of bathroom things (toothbrush, etc) the use USB power to charge (yeah, the phone sometimes gets plugged in there too).
Don’t be afraid to be creative and think what you might need down the road.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 09:04 AM   #39
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Looking good, Phil. And I know what you mean - I had to do ALL the same prep things, and then some, except moving the door.

What Jeff said. Even in a bathroom it's hard to have too many outlets. And ditto on the USB outlets. I believe it's Lutron that makes a combination duplex receptacle + USB-A + USB-C. I used this set up, pictured, on the left and right of the vanity.

However, I'd be squeamish about receptacles in the tower cabinets. Leaving rechargeable devices plugged in but out of sight in a flammable enclosure makes me nervous. But that's me.

If you are planning on a bidet you'll need an outlet next to the toilet.

If there's no ambient light in there at night consider a motion sensing night light.

You can certainly stack the floor heat controller above the gang of switches next to the door, I did the same, pictured (but I also included a controller for the shower). Remember, though, that the "cold leads" from the controller to the floor need to be in conduit, which will take up space in the stud bay.

The shower controller wire is low voltage. Route it any way you like, but in a way to prevent it being damaged or yanked on during the building process.

Be certain the actual valve body is installed in such a way that it is easily removed if it ever needs servicing/replacement. For instance, if the unit is installed in such a way that the mounting screw heads face the bathroom you'll never get the thing out from the other side.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 10:20 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
However, I'd be squeamish about receptacles in the tower cabinets. Leaving rechargeable devices plugged in but out of sight in a flammable enclosure makes me nervous.
Dan, I've been putting electrical receptacles in the drawer space in vanity cabinets for many years without complaints or house fires. Shouldn't hafta tell the homeowner not to put the hair dryer in the drawer with it turned on, but I do anyway. Always felt like telling kids not to poke theirownselfs in the eye with a sharp stick, though.

First one I ever did in a code compliance jurisdiction (late 80s), the inspector noticed it and said, "Are you allowed to do that?" I assured him I was and he paid no more attention.

The homeowners, without exception, all just loved the concept, so I generally made it a "feature" in all master bathrooms. Is it technically legal? I honestly don't know to this day, but I don't know of any rule prohibiting it. Perhaps today is the day someone will show me the error in my ways?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 10:31 AM   #41
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I've seen 'em too, CX, currently shopping for a vanity and many have built in concealed receptacles. Still makes me nervous, but my fear is probably unfounded since I've not read anything lately about 'esplodin batteries.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 11:26 AM   #42
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Thanks for the ideas. For some reason I never even considered putting two receptacles at the same location.

CX - would you mind explaining roughly how you are installing outlets in the drawer. What do you start with at the wall?

The electronic valve will face away from the bathroom. The other side of the wall is our closet and is behind the closet door. I will put an access panel in the closet.

Speaking of squeamish, a bidet makes me squeamish

I am not very creative, that is why I keep asking design questions so thanks everyone.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 11:46 AM   #43
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Nor am I, Phil, but nor am I above employing someone else's ideas. Ever.

Re the bidet; two points for you to consider. 1) Adding the necessary GFCI protected receptacle is of minimal cost and 2) Just because there is a bidet doesn't mean you have to use its features.

Bidet skeptics abounded in my household. All are converts.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 04:18 PM   #44
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Start with a war, Phil.

It's usually nothing more than a typical duplex receptacle in the wall immediately behind the drawer stack if there will be sufficient space behind the topmost drawer to allow it to close without any interference with the chord or plug of the appliance to be connected. Sometimes there's not room. In those cases I have either shortened that drawer or managed to mount a box on the inside wall of the cabinet somehow.

Difficult part is usually the planning. As I was always (before Texas made new laws about electrical work) the electrician and always the trim carpenter on all my new construction and remodels, it was easy enough to wait 'till I had the cabinets on site to do the installation of that outlet. I'd just have roughed in a wire sticking out of the wall in what I expected to be close to the final location.

Then you just 'spain the customer to remove the top drawer, plug in the hair dryer, replace the drawer, toss the dryer in, and close the drawer.

Keep in mind that I am not a licensed electrician, nor have I ever played one on TV, but I've done a lot of residential electrical work.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-16-2021, 10:12 AM   #45
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The attached picture is of a hand shower fixture that combines the water inlet and holder. My questions has to do with the installation of the drop ear elbow. Brass fittings seem to have very close tolerances. If I mount the drop ear too deep the fixture will stick out and if too shallow then it will not be tight and may leak. Using Kerdi board and 3/8 in tile so I assume I will be right at an one inch thickness. Are there any tricks to build some tolerance into the placement of the drop elbow to insure a tight connection? I had a similar issue when I redid the other bathroom with a tub. The tub spout nipple was about 1/4in too long. I had to have someone at work trim it down on a metal lathe and rethread.
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