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Unread 04-18-2021, 08:29 AM   #1
pianobarry87
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First time tiling help with prep

I am about to start my first DIY tile job. As you can see my drywall is not level and has many holes. I am leaning to remove the drywall and install cement board where I am going to tile. Is this the best solution? Also how do you suggest I get around the countertop brackets. They are screwed into the studs so I need to work around them. Ideally I cover them up and tile over it.
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Unread 04-18-2021, 08:50 AM   #2
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Welcome, Barry.
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Originally Posted by Barry
As you can see my drywall is not level...
First, you don't want that wall to be level on accounta then it would be part of the floor, eh?

But you do want it flat and I can't tell in your photo whether that's the case or not. Can you put a straight-edge across the face of the low wall and determine how far out of plane it is?

Is the face of the drywall proud of those brackets?

What size tiles do you intend to use?
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Unread 04-18-2021, 09:18 AM   #3
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First time tiling help with prep

Yes, sorry flat. The wall is not flat. The wall is indented where the old backsplash was and by the bar top on the sink side there is a gap near the countertop because I needed to level that surface by raising it on one side.



The brackets are less than .5inch thick so they are sunken into the wall

4x12 subway for the kitchen and pebble for the pony wall
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Unread 04-18-2021, 11:47 AM   #4
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Hi Barry,

You should be able to tile over the brackets.

You should remove the drywall in the skinny area between the bar and the countertop and add wood backing blocks to support either new drywall or cement board. Either will work. In fact, drywall will work on all of it, but the edges need positive support behind them.
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Unread 04-18-2021, 07:58 PM   #5
pianobarry87
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Thanks for your reply.

I have already added a couple of wood blocks for future support. There is also a horizontal 2x4 from the previous bar top support. That should be enough support right? If I were to cut out the kitchen drywall it would be the same deal because I would only have support from the vertical studs. (Sorry in advance for not using correct terminology) still new to all of this

As for tiling over the brackets I am going to need to fill in that space. Would something like join compound be sufficient wether it be drywall or cement board.


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Last edited by cx; 04-18-2021 at 08:41 PM.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 09:06 AM   #6
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Subway Tile Layout Question

I am planning on 4 inch high stacked subway tile for a full backsplash. Considering that I have 18 inches to cover should I keep them full until the top 2 inches or even out the layout and put 1 inch slivers on each end. Or is this just preference?

Another factor is that I have about 4.5 inches to cover for one wall because of a bar top. So that would either be 4+.5 or 1+3.5. Thanks in advance.


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Unread 04-19-2021, 10:02 AM   #7
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Hi Barry, I'm gonna give some of your questions a go here. From my vantage point, some of what you're up against is nearing the deep end of the DIY pool.

Concerning the pony wall:
I assume the apparently sloping original wall followed the floor? If so your tile will be level at the top, but not bottom. Read angled cuts or angled baseboard or something like that. It will be more obvious with small tile. If that's not the case, I'm curious just how that wall got to where it is.
I'd probably skin that whole back side with a layer of drywall. Could be 1/4" or 1/2". Just looking to bridge the gaps. Will most likely involve finishing outside corner unless you're wrapping the end of wall.

On the backsplash:
Considering the lack of blocking, I think I'd be cutting a sliver of drywall for the bar and attach with a nail or two and adhesive. Overall, I think an OK (not great) substrate could be achieved with mesh tape, setting compound and some artful floating. I'd be looking to get a mostly flat surface with my drywall knife...sanding in confined spaces not easy nor much fun. Mask where you don't want joint compound or you'll wish you had.

It'd been nice if some of this was addressed at earlier stage, but that ship seems to have sailed. Do tell about that sloping wall...
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Unread 04-19-2021, 10:04 AM   #8
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It's a preference, but I would probably go with full tiles at the base, assuming the countertop is level. The lower area is generally more visible...
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Unread 04-19-2021, 10:20 AM   #9
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And just to add confusion, the split layout does not have to be equal. 3.5 at countertop, 2.5 at cabinet would not be unreasonable. Other things might factor in. Height of receptacles and switches. Intersection of whatever else. I've also added trim to cabinet bottoms to hide a awkward skinny tile situation.

Cutting top and bottom does afford ability to address countertop and cabinets that aren't exactly parallel.
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Last edited by Carbidetooth; 04-19-2021 at 10:53 AM.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 10:43 AM   #10
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Hi Barry, we've merged your two threads since they are for the same project. Having all a project's history in one thread helps all contributors understand the big picture. We can change the name of your thread to anything you like.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 11:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbidetooth View Post
Hi Barry, I'm gonna give some of your questions a go here. From my vantage point, some of what you're up against is nearing the deep end of the DIY pool.

Concerning the pony wall:
I assume the apparently sloping original wall followed the floor? If so your tile will be level at the top, but not bottom. Read angled cuts or angled baseboard or something like that. It will be more obvious with small tile. If that's not the case, I'm curious just how that wall got to where it is.
I'd probably skin that whole back side with a layer of drywall. Could be 1/4" or 1/2". Just looking to bridge the gaps. Will most likely involve finishing outside corner unless you're wrapping the end of wall.

On the backsplash:
Considering the lack of blocking, I think I'd be cutting a sliver of drywall for the bar and attach with a nail or two and adhesive. Overall, I think an OK (not great) substrate could be achieved with mesh tape, setting compound and some artful floating. I'd be looking to get a mostly flat surface with my drywall knife...sanding in confined spaces not easy nor much fun. Mask where you don't want joint compound or you'll wish you had.

It'd been nice if some of this was addressed at earlier stage, but that ship seems to have sailed. Do tell about that sloping wall...

I am going with pebble tile for the pony wall so I am not too worried about the slope. The floor is not level and I had to level the bar top to the floor before the countertops were installed. I probably could have leveled the floor but the time and cost of that was not worth it. So it is what it is at the moment. It was a 2 inch height different over 8ft! When you say skin you would mean just add drywall over the existing one?


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Unread 04-19-2021, 01:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry
When you say skin you would mean just add drywall over the existing one?
Uh huh. If the face of those brackets are flush with the front of the existing drywall the easiest remedy will be to simply add a second layer of DW on toppa the first; skin it. You'll of course need to rework the baseboard trim, and install a box extender for that receptacle.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 02:51 PM   #13
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Uh huh. If the face of those brackets are flush with the front of the existing drywall the easiest remedy will be to simply add a second layer of DW on toppa the first; skin it. You'll of course need to rework the baseboard trim, and install a box extender for that receptacle.

This was what I originally wanted to do. But I got some advice to rip the wall off and throw up another one


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Unread 04-19-2021, 03:43 PM   #14
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It's not ideal, but that could be said of other parts of project as well. I might scab in some bits at the top, mesh tape and setting compound. Some strategic dollops of PL Premium will lend a little strength as well as glue two layers together with drywall adhesive.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 04:20 PM   #15
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Well, to be fair, you do have some craziness going on with that wall, Barry, and there are many times when it will actually take less time to remove and rebuild than it will to try to patch something together. Not sure that's the case this time, unless the remove/replace advice is due to some other complication that we can't see from here.
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