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Unread 12-31-2020, 09:37 AM   #1
AllenP
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Transition between tray/drain tray height

Hello all,

Been lurking for literally years and years taking advice and suggestions but now this time I have run into a "problem"? that I can't find the solution to.

I'm working on my basement shower over a slab. I'm using the kerdi system and yesterday installed the tray and drain.

I noticed that there is nearly a 1/4" height difference between where the tray meets the drain flange. I'm not sure why but I'd be willing to bet it was user error.

The question I have now is how do I fix it?

My initial thought was to shave off the sharp edge of the tray and then add a bit of extra thinset around the flange when I install the membrane to make up the difference albeit it will result in a little steeper drop. As you can tell from the pictures I started doing that but then decided I better ask the professionals before I keep trucking on.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thank you everyone!
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Unread 12-31-2020, 11:59 AM   #2
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Welcome back, Allen,

Not quite sure I can tell what I'm looking at, is there already some mortar on the tray? If so, I'd use a rub stone to remove some of it, and then add some mortar to fill in. You'll have to let the fill in mortar dry first before laying the membrane.
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Unread 12-31-2020, 01:33 PM   #3
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This picture maybe helps with perspective of what I have going on.

The lip between the drain flange and the tray seems to be to high and creates a drop for when I lay tile.

So if I understand what you're saying, is that I should add thinset to level it off, let it dry and then lay the membrane?
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Unread 03-22-2021, 04:21 PM   #4
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Kiesel servolight and kerdi board

Hello all.

I have done some searches and haven't really come up with anything definitive about this question.

Can I use Kiesel servolight ANSI A118.4 to set tile over kerdi board in a shower?

I am aware that it is technically "modified" and that is generally not doable over kerdi. But a Schluter dealer in my area aka tilemaster.ca made it very clear that I can use it.

And if I do use it. Should I be waiting an extra amount of time to grout?

Thoughts?
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Unread 03-22-2021, 05:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen
...a Schluter dealer in my area...
Allen, if you'd add a geographic location to your User Profile, that sorta statement would be more meaningful, eh?

If that is a thinset mortar meeting ANSI A118.4, you've answered your own question. If your dealer would put that in writing with a warranty attached, it would potentially be useful, but if not, it's the same as my telling you there are many A118.4 mortars out there that I would, and have, used over Schluter products with good results. "The same" meaning that it doesn't really mean a thing, eh? You wanna use it, you use it. You don't get a Schluter warranty. Do you care about that?

This is for your basement bathroom project?
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Unread 03-22-2021, 06:32 PM   #6
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eh. Yes for my basement project.

I used the servolight over ditra heat laying ceramic and it has gone about 3 years now with no issue. I had some left over soooo I was thinking I should use it up. But if it's going to cause issues... then I will go buy some all-set. Which is also ANSI A118.4 if I'm reading it correctly.

It all just makes my head spin. lol.

And profile edited.
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Unread 03-22-2021, 07:07 PM   #7
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A moderator can give the thread a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one, eh?

Two issues of concern here. First, do we understand that you are planning to use thinset mortar that is three years old?

Second, I don't see a response to my question about your concern for having/not having a Schluter warranty.
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Unread 03-22-2021, 07:13 PM   #8
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I'm not interested in the warranty. The project is fairly small in nature and the fight to have a company honour a warranty isn't worth the $1000 to fix it myself.

Notice the spelling of "honour"? Proper spelling.

So a sealed bag of mortar 3 years old is no longer good? If that's the case, I assume its the same for grout etc. I need to do a dump run..
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Unread 03-22-2021, 08:10 PM   #9
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A sealed bag for most manufacturers will last for up to 1 year if it's stored in a cool, dry place. One manufacturer that I know of that uses heavy plastic bags advertises that they'll last for up to 2 years. I wouldn't mess with that 3 year old stuff.

For your foam tray, did you end up shaving some of the foam tray down to match the height of your drain? Or did you add mortar to the drain flange? I ask, because your Kerdi membrane creates a seal with the drain when there is a very, very thin layer of mortar between the two. The mortar is porous, but when it is very thin, the hydrophobic nature of the Kerdi and drain flange prevents the water from sneaking through. However, if you put mortar on in a thick layer, it's not waterproof.
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Unread 03-22-2021, 08:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen
Notice the spelling of "honour"? Proper spelling.
Only if a fella lives above the 49th parallel, eh?

A factory sealed bag of mortar is suspect and not backed by its manufacturer at one year in most cases and most certainly at three years old, Allen, and I would have considered an opened bag unusable at least two-and-a-half years ago. Up to you, of course, but I'd recommend you make nothing more substantial than yard bunnies with that old mortar.

If you're not concerned with Schluter's warranty, as I would not be, using most available A118.4 mortars is probably going to work quite well for you. There are probably still some out there that could be a bit problematic, but a bit of extra cure time before grouting should deal with even that.

Making up a thick test sample and sealing it in a couple layers of ZipLock baggies will give you some idea how it's likely to act in an airless environment. I make my samples about the size and shape of a tennis ball. See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-23-2021, 08:14 AM   #11
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I ended up shaving down some of the edges and adding a bit extra mortar but not too much.. My tiles are just extra steep at that point lol. it's a rain type shower so it shouldn't be too much of a tripping hazzard.

So far I've used all-set and was just curious regarding the Kiesel because I had some sitting in my garage. But I think you guys have answered my question. And the 1 year life span seals the deal. Off to home depot.ca for some more all-set.

Thank you for the help!
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Unread 03-25-2021, 07:45 AM   #12
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The saga continues.

SO I used the "t-lock" https://www.perfectlevelmaster.com/ system on the tiles.

99% of them broke off fine, but 1% of them where I got a little crazy with the mortar had a little piece break off in the wrong spot and remained in the grout line.

Are there any tips or tricks to get these little stupid things out?

Thank you
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Unread 03-25-2021, 08:01 AM   #13
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A piece of wood (like a section of a wood shim) a hair thinner than the grout joint and a hammer. Drive it at the side of the broken piece, should pop it out.
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Unread 03-25-2021, 08:14 AM   #14
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I will give that a try.. thank you
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Unread 03-25-2021, 09:00 AM   #15
AllenP
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The wood shims worked. A couple took the old college try, but they are all removed, thank you.

I've attached some pics to show the progress. Today I'm going to work on the niches and scribe the bottom row.

and of course the pictures are sideways.
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