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Unread 12-22-2010, 10:50 PM   #1
Red
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the deflecto meter said my floor was good for ceramic tile what about porcelain ?

I have a bathroom floor project going on with mixed advise on to add a second layer of plywood or cement board or just add the tile on my new plywood 3/4 floor? My old osb bathroom floor was removed,2x6 joice 16" oc, now sistered & installed new 3/4 plywood glued & screwed. The floor is suported at 7'. I want to install 13" porcelain tile with thinset on the new floor without any additional height.Am I good to go ???????????
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Unread 12-22-2010, 11:11 PM   #2
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Hi Red, welcome! I would add some Ditra to the ply then set your tile. You are fine with the porcelain.
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Unread 12-23-2010, 04:25 AM   #3
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Red , Welcome! Do not installl tile directly on your new3/4 ply floor,as Mike indicated and height is a concern ? useing Schluter`s Ditra ( Most Home Depot`s carry) is you best choice height concerned or not IMO! Just remember to follow all manufacturers installation instructions :-) Please post any questions needed here on this (Your) thread by bookmarking or favorites .
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Unread 12-23-2010, 07:02 AM   #4
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Wink 1st shower pan

Thanks for the recomendations. I thought the floor was strong enough but didn't know if the plywood would hold the thinset. Is the ditra for additional support or adheasin or both? My next hurdle will be the shower pan ,I've never did one before. Sorry about all the questions,just looking to do it correctly. Off to work, Thanks again
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Unread 12-23-2010, 07:12 AM   #5
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Red,

Ditra adds no support. What is does do is 'uncouple' the tile from the plywood, allowing for more movement than without.
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Unread 12-23-2010, 03:34 PM   #6
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While there is an approved method of installing tile to plywood directly, it requires TWO layers of plywood, properly installed and an expensive highly modified thinset to do it. SO, especially where you are height challenged, you need something to isolate that wood from the ceramic stuff that is fairly thin. check out www.schluter.com and search on the Ditra stuff. Works great, cuts easily, doesn't weigh much so you can carry all you need over your shoulder (try that with multiple sheets of cement board!), and is better at decoupling than cbu.
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Unread 12-23-2010, 09:08 PM   #7
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Question Ditra

I have a picture of my new project. After installing the ditra & tile on the floor,what would you recommend for the shower pan (mud) & CB for the shower walls?
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Unread 12-23-2010, 09:14 PM   #8
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Hi Red, I would recommend regular drywall with Kerdi and the Kerdi System for your shower.
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Unread 12-23-2010, 09:16 PM   #9
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Red,

I'd do it the other way round. After all the rough plumbing, electric and HVAC are complete;

1-Take care of the the drywall first. Preferrably at least down to the primer. Paint if you'd like.

2- Waterproof the walls and tub surround.

3- Mud the shower pan using a temporary curb. When the pan has set, install the permanent curb

4A- tile the walls leaving room for the kerdi overlap when you kerdi the shower floor
OR
4B- Kerdi the whole shower first then tile. Got to protect the floor kerdi in the process or tile the shower floor first. Usually the shower floor is last.

5- tile the tub surround

6- tile the main bath floor.

Floor are usually last due to gravity. People drop things, stuff spills, ladders tip over.... you get the idea.
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Unread 12-23-2010, 09:31 PM   #10
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I'm with Mike on the kerdi shower. Download the kerdi shower book in the store. It's the best 10 bucks you'll ever spend. What size is the lumber on the tub surround? Looks like 2x2 in the pic.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 07:23 AM   #11
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Question

Mike Paul & Dane Thanks, I downloaded the book and did a quick peek. Wow-need a few days to go through it. The shower wall where the valve is has 2-2x3 (modular where the 2 halfs connect for a 2x6) & the other wall is the back side of the living room with 2x3. That wall was sprayed with foam as a little sound barrier because it only had panneling due to the modular construction in 1986. The entire room was gutted because it was only 7' tall. I ripped out the original trusses & built off the roof line which now goes from 7' to 9'+and had the roof sprayed with 7" foam (icenene). For the flat part of the tub deck can I put the tile on with thinset or should I use the ditra there also? the tub is a drop in & This is my first shower & tub deck attempt.The complete deck RO is 62" with a 60" tub-very little room to spare. drywall or CB on the tub surround ? I was only going to go up with one 13" tile,2" mosaics & 1- 3" x 13bullnose. Any & all recomdations appreciated. Thanks Red PS I have a bunch of pictures if you need them for recomdations
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Unread 12-24-2010, 09:55 AM   #12
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The answer depends on your water proofing method of choice.

If you have the cash, CBU is the way to go. If you want to save some money and effort, and are using kerdi or hydroban or hydrobarrier then drywall will work just fine.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 10:09 AM   #13
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Paul, It looks like the clamp drain is already installed. A kerdi shower would require removing the shower subfloor (unless there is access from below), removing the clamp drain and replacing with a kerdi drain, correct?
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Unread 12-24-2010, 11:06 AM   #14
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there is a Kerdi conversion drain, but it may be just as easy if you have access from below to use the 'normal' one. Don't know the relative costs. My vote is to just drywall everything and use Kerdi for the shower. Make a mud floor as it will end up perfect for your space (and is lots less expensive, but more labor) unless the space fits the preformed pan almost perfectly.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 11:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_V
would require removing the shower subfloor
Nope, you wouldn't need to do that at all. Even without access from below there are options.

1. Use the conversion drain from Schluter.
2. If access below, remove the clamping drain, replace with regular KerdiDrain.
3. No access, use an inside pipe cutter and replace with regular KerdiDrain.

Inside pipe cutter, available at Lowes...
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