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Unread 01-30-2005, 11:44 AM   #1
DIYOHMY
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Top 'o hot mopped shower bench?

I built a corner bench. Framed with wood, covered with 3/4" OSB, then the entire surface was hotmopped with the rest of the shower pan. The area was hotmopped 6" above the shelf, and to the sides. Seems well sealed.

I am using CBU for the walls, and obviously a mortar bed for the floor and dam, but I didn't think through the bench plan.

Seems I could:
a) install backer board on the top surface, then coat with redguard.
or
b) create mortar bed on the surface, and down to the floor
or
c) just thinset and tile on top of the hotmopped bench

If a: would I set it in thinset, or screw it down (perforating the surface hotmop) - yes, I will redguard the whole area when done.

If b: where/how would I attach lath to the area, w/o perforation?

Guess this may be one of those cases where "one step at a time" didn't work

Thanks,
- Michael

Last edited by DIYOHMY; 01-30-2005 at 11:49 AM.
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Unread 01-30-2005, 01:35 PM   #2
DIYOHMY
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Image attached... picture paints a thousand words...

After searching - and realizing that I failed to use recommended methods... mia culpa

I'm expecting to hear CBU and redguard the whole bench... If so, then do I need to redguard all the way up the wall? And how far to each side? It seems that if I install poly/felt to the wall, and it overlaps the hotmopped bench, then it is possible for water to get behind the CBU above, then drop down onto the bench, below the redguard.

I guess in this case, the question is how to attach CBU to the hot mopped bench area. If thinset will work (without any screws/nails), then there are no holes to worry about, and redguard wouldn't actually be necessary.

THanks!
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Last edited by DIYOHMY; 01-30-2005 at 01:44 PM.
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Unread 01-31-2005, 09:03 PM   #3
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Nevermind.... barooski time

Ok, so tar is not listed as an acceptable surface list on the thin set bag... but it's not listed as an unacceptable surface either. Padded linoleum is... and the hot mop surface has a little bit of sponginess to it, so I'm ruling out thinset.

I suppose I could lay a mortar bed on top of the bench, and I suppose I could attach lath above the hop mopped area above the bench, and fold it around like a dam, but I'm

Given the fact that I'm planning to RG a number of other surfaces, I decided to have a beer, screw CBU down on top of the bench, treat the front like the rest of the walls, and then RG the whole darn area! I put slope into the framing, so I should be good to go.

So, at this point I'm going for another beer - if ya'll think this is a BAD idea - please hollar!

Thanks,
- Michael
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Unread 01-31-2005, 09:19 PM   #4
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what kinda beer??I thing that is a good idea.(the beer)
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Unread 01-31-2005, 09:25 PM   #5
DIYOHMY
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Eye of the Hawk, from the Mendicino Brewing Co. Close to a barleywine... 8%
ahhhh....
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Unread 01-31-2005, 09:40 PM   #6
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screwing down a CBU negates the hotmop, best thing would be to lay diamond lath over it ( nothing is nailed down mind you but just formed ), upturn on the wall, ( where the mop stops ) and let the CBUs on the wall lock the lath in place. you have to shim the CBUs anyways as hotmop build out will push them a little bit inwards if you don't. The only place where you can secure diamond lath is on lower face of the curb. And even then it's not a bad idea to dab Henry's roofing mastic over nails/ staples that you did use. This way you hot mop has still got it's integrity. Then it all should be floated with mortar ( mud work ) out flat and plane.

BTW did you perform a 24 hour water test on the pan?. Do this before you lath. Remove drain screen cover, plug up the shower drain ( home depot sells the plugs, they lock in with a wingnut ). Place a small piace of duct tape on the inside of the pan close by the curb. Fill the pan up to top of curb, but do not the water spill over. Mark the water line with a ball point pen on the tape once the water has stablized and it not making ripples. In 24 hours the water should be at the same line. If it is you pan is 100% water tight.
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Unread 01-31-2005, 10:03 PM   #7
DIYOHMY
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Test the shower pan???

Test the shower pan??? yes - it's been tested

I realize that screws would sacrifice the hot mopped bench, but I originally planned to just CBU/RG the bench anyway. I only decided to hot mop the bench when the hotmopper suggested it while doing the pan. I didn't think it through and only had a few minuted to dicide.

I guess I can go either way. I've laid tons of tile in dry areas, but this is my first shower. I debated mudding everything, but was a bit reluctant, even for a fearless DIY'er because of the dry-time factor... figured I'd practice on someone else's shower first.

That said, I am planning to mud the floor myself... since the CBU is going up tomorrow, I'll have to decide on the bench tonight.

Thanks!
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Unread 01-31-2005, 10:14 PM   #8
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my rule of thumb, any horizontal surface, mud always and hotmop. I have seen quite a few damaged bench / shower combos where the bench waterproofing was violated in one form or another. But oddly enough the pan was not.

your going to mud the curb right? well a bench is a bit harder ( espcially when it's on a angle ), but it's worth the effort ( and it will feel much more solid ) to mud them.
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Unread 02-01-2005, 06:39 AM   #9
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I think I'd ignore the hot mop on the bench. Screw the backerboard to it and then waterproof the surfaces (top and front) of the bench with Redgard. This violates the "only 1 vapor barrier" rule, but I think it'll be all right.
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Unread 02-01-2005, 06:43 PM   #10
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I'm going to agree with Bob. Forget about the hot mop and do it like a regular CBU bench.

No masic in showers, Henry's or otherwise.

A mud job would be nice, but in order to make it work you would have to use a lot of mortar, and it's not an ideal project for a first timer.

Oh, that is not beer you drank. Get some good stuff -- Miller's High Life or Busch.
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Unread 02-01-2005, 07:33 PM   #11
DIYOHMY
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Thanks Guys - I decided to go the CBU route on the bench, as originally planned. It's super solid - 2x stock across the top, then 3/4" osb, then 1/2 hardi... I think it'll hold.

As for the beer... On this topic - I AM very worthy Try it sometime.

- Michael
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Unread 02-01-2005, 08:29 PM   #12
Scooter
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I wouldn't use RedGuard. I like Laticrete 9235 for the simple reason that it is about twice or three times as thick, and by using their fiberglass matting, it adds an incredible amount of strength to the structure of the setting bed.

I use Custom stuff exclusively, but the waterproofing is where it and I depart. Laticrete 9235 is a vastly superior product.
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Unread 02-01-2005, 10:43 PM   #13
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that job should be floated. hot mops are a bit thick to be running cbus over
without creating distortions in the cbu.
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