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Unread 03-15-2015, 12:51 PM   #76
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A friend of the wife's said he had somebody to do it. He brought by a Hispanic gentleman probably standing out in front of Home Depot, who asked after looking at the wall, "why do you want to take that wall out?" Not what the wife wanted to hear and since the consequences of not properly supporting the upper building structure by taking out the wall could result in a headache or worse. So we decided to pass on the help. He means well but his participation in anything is the kiss of death.

The wife has a MB560SEL that needed transmission work. He brought over a couple of gentlemen from the Home Depot and they proceeded to tear out the transmission and put a junk yard replacement in. Took them three full days to do that and after it was all said and done, the car is now undriveable. Took a perfectly good car and made a driveway ornament out of it. I don't have anywhere to work on it other than my driveway and yanking a transmission out in my driveway isn't in my future plans. So now the car's going on Craigslist and hopefully I don't get beat to death by hustlers trying to give me scrap value.
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Unread 03-15-2015, 06:45 PM   #77
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What is a good choice for a demo blade for 1950 Plaster walls? They're plaster over metal lath over what looks like drywall with holes in it. I've tried demo blades, wood with nails, metal cutting, carbide tipped, and they all just wear the teeth off. Tried a carbide demo blade on a Skil saw, after making a 2ft cut, it's so dull now it won't cut a 2x4. I was thinking maybe a metal cutoff blade fiber type blade? I even tried hitting it with my belt sander with 36 grit and it barely touches the stuff. It's like cut a foot, toss the blade, cut another foot, toss the blade, repeat until you run out of money or blades
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Unread 03-15-2015, 07:05 PM   #78
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I've had surprisingly good results with these Rigid blades from Homer's, used in a regular circular saw. I do use a dedicated saw I have for such applications on accounta that kinda work is pretty tough on'em.

Homer's website shows some much less expensive "turbo" blades, but I've never tried any of'em.

Caution: Gonna be dusty as hell.

If water-feed is an option, I'd try my little Felker FHS-4 or similar so long as you don't need more than about 1 1/4" depth (I think).
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Unread 03-16-2015, 02:51 PM   #79
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How about some

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Unread 03-16-2015, 04:29 PM   #80
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The cops around here would probably shoot me just for having a picture of it. If I actually had some C4 they would call out the terrorist task force and drop a nuke on me
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Unread 03-17-2015, 09:03 AM   #81
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Since the floor is on hold I'm working on the rest of the kitchen. Took out a wall and now there's holes to be filled. The walls are plaster over metal lath over some other type of drywall. What should I fill the holes with? Drywall? CBU? Should I just fill the holes with something solid and then drywall mud/tape it shut? I could probably even finish it off with plaster of Paris or some plaster/stucco mix. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Unread 03-17-2015, 10:27 AM   #82
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Stack some good old plain old white boring run-of-the-mill cheap-o drywall in there. You may need to play around a bit with getting things close to flush but I'd leave the surrounding wall just a ~tad~ proud to aid in mudding things flush come to finish time.
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Unread 03-17-2015, 04:43 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpad007
Stack some good old plain old white boring run-of-the-mill cheap-o drywall in there. You may need to play around a bit with getting things close to flush but I'd leave the surrounding wall just a ~tad~ proud to aid in mudding things flush come to finish time.
So should I use your basic drywall mud over that or plaster of Paris/plaster-stucco mix? Got a nice 25lb bag of the plaster of Paris stuff, I've heard it's a bitch trying to get it on the wall fast enough before it sets up though. That plaster stuff that's on the wall is some tough stuff. I hit it with my belt sander with 36grit and it probably didn't take off .010" in a minute of grinding. There's a big run in the plaster over a window that I need to grind down to put some trim around it, probably have to take a disc grinder with a masonry wheel on it.
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Unread 03-18-2015, 09:14 AM   #84
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Dan,

Your call on mud vs. plaster. I have ZERO experience with plaster but I've been known to sling some mud here 'n there and make it look okay. I don't use the fast set stuff because that would be a nightmare... I need time to overwork my mud and make it worse and worse as I keep trying to fix it!
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Unread 03-18-2015, 05:52 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpad007
I need time to overwork my mud and make it worse and worse as I keep trying to fix it!
I think we went to the same school of muddin'. Almost perfect, maybe just one more little lick, nope now that's worse, better sling some more mud at it and get it perfect. Just one spot, just a little touch up, oops, now it has another blemish, better toss some more mud and try again. Repeat as necessary. How to use 10lbs of mud on one wall The real drywall guys make me look like a one armed left handed drunk monkey. If I was trying to make a living doing that I would starve. Kind of like custom painting. I can do it but takes me forever.
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Unread 03-18-2015, 05:54 PM   #86
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Which is why we hire the pro's to tape and float on bigger projects.
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Unread 03-18-2015, 06:04 PM   #87
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You got it, Paul! Thankfully I have a good buddy who finishes all my drywall for me at a reasonable cost.
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Unread 03-18-2015, 06:11 PM   #88
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Some days it pays to live a 5 hour drive from Mexico.

Just got a bid from a subcontractor - to hang, tape and float level 5 finish (wallpaper smooth) for two 800 sf new construction apartments for $1,000 We supply the materials. Hang one day float the next.

We could do the work in house, but not nearly as fast or as well. The days we save on our work schedule more than make up the $1,000 labor cost.
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Unread 03-18-2015, 06:58 PM   #89
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When I lived in SoCal, the land of specialists, when it came to machine work, wheel lacing, etc. It was cheaper to just have one of the local machinists bore cylinders and press cranks. They were cheaper/faster/picked up and got it back sooner. Same with wheel lacing, they would do it for us less than 1/2 what I would charge. Made more business sense to just spin wrenches and let the specialists do their thing.

Funny thing about Mexicans, they sure get around. When I lived in SoCal, of course there was lots of them since Mexico was only about 80 miles south. What surprised me was how many Mexicans there are in NYC. It's a long way to Mexico from here.
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Unread 03-26-2015, 05:07 PM   #90
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So the construction guys have been busy working on taking out the wall. I told them to leave the floor alone, I will take care of it. In the wall they're removing, there are 4 furnace ducts. Two were pointed into the living room, one was for the kitchen and the final one went upstairs to a bedroom. So with the wall gone, except for one little section that still has one of the ducts in it, the ductwork is cut off at floor level. Getting duct work upstairs would be a real pain so I figured on just putting an electric baseboard heater up there. Easier to fish a 220 line compared to tearing out walls and running ductwork for one room.

So on to the questions: I would like to keep the one duct and make it a floor register. When the wall goes, there will be a nice hole in the floor down to the subfloor. Have two choices on that. Either put down plywood/CBU and tile it or make/find some sort of wood~tile interface strip about 8 inches wide.
If I go with the tile and want to keep a register, I will have to cut a hole in the tile. Is it possible to cut a "perfect" hole in a ceramic tile? I would like to keep the register outlet as low a profile as possible so it's not a trip hazard.
All the ducts have a diverter plate in them. To block them off, any reason I couldn't just shut the diverter valve and run a bead of caulking around the plate to block it off completely?
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