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Unread 02-16-2010, 08:29 AM   #1
uber_bwnage
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Do I need to repair drywall missing paper before retiling?

I removed the top row of 3x6 ceramic tiles of my kitchen backsplash so I could redo them to get a better fit under the cabinets. (It looked horrible before...crappy DIY job I did! Lesson learned.)

When I removed the tiles, the paper face of the drywall came off too. I am going to retile with the same tiles using mastic.

Do I need to repair the drywall with spackle and paint or can I just tile over the damaged areas? It is a dry area.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 08:48 AM   #2
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Did you take the paper all the way to the gypsum core?
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Unread 02-16-2010, 08:49 AM   #3
uber_bwnage
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No, just the white layer of paper. There is a brown paper showing. No gypsum exposed.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 08:54 AM   #4
bbcamp
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Just tile over it. You'll be fine.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 09:44 AM   #5
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I too will be removing some ceramic tile over drywall w/ mastic - is there any trick to minimizing drywall damage? E.g. heat? I may or may not retile, haven't decided.

Bill/Memphis
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Unread 02-16-2010, 09:48 AM   #6
uber_bwnage
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I just cut away as much grout as I could with a razor, then used a putty knife and hammer to pry the tiles off. Came off pretty easily, it just ripped the top layer of paper off the drywall.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 10:03 AM   #7
chumbley
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I would consider sealing the brown paper with Zinsser Gardz (formulated to seal damaged drywall) first, but my experience is very limited. I bow to the pros...
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Unread 02-16-2010, 11:00 AM   #8
johnfrwhipple
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Repairing Kitchen Backsplash Dry Wall - how to

When we remove kitchen backsplash tile and we loose some of the drywall paper we repair the area as follows.

Remove as much of the old thinset with a straight edge, little water and scrub section of a grout sponge. Prime damaged area with Guardz (by Zissner - I believe they don't make it anymore but others make wall paper repair liquids that act the same. You might even try 1 part white glue and 4 parts water for a small area.) This priming helps seal the un-papered drywall and then we top it with screen mesh and drywall joint compound.

If the wall was set with Mastic we scrap it all off with a 3" wall scraper and repeat as above if needed.

You can use a product call Cement Fill and heaver mesh (Stucco Mesh) to fix walls that aren't true. This will take some time to dry (1 - 2 days) if used to thicknesses around 1/4"

If backsplash repairs are needed it's a great time to relocate or add plugs to more ideal locations (centered on grout lines, height, etc) or rough in for new under counter lighting.

I did some repairs a while back for a failed drywall fireplace feature I renovated.

Repairing Dry Wall Step by Step; http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...g+drywall+step

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Unread 02-16-2010, 11:13 AM   #9
bbcamp
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John, what if the homeowner wants to replace the tile? Would you go through all that just to cover the tear with a tile?
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Unread 02-16-2010, 11:24 AM   #10
johnfrwhipple
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Not always

We generally are doing the repainting as well so we have these products on site and hit them all at the same time.

If we where doing a straight retile You could just use some speed set and mesh.

Most of the times I move the plugs anyway because they alway look out of place - way to heigh and never in line with the tile.

Many jobs of late we have hidden the plugs on the bottom side of the upper cabinets so they are not seen at all. A plug or two behind the coffee maker and microwave but the others out of sight.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 12:24 PM   #11
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I love the Zinser guardz. Its a wonderful product. Dries in an hour or less. Turns broken drywall into a hard plastic like, sandable shell
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