Vic's shower project

[surgeon]

Hi All,
I am going to gut and redo the master bath for my parents starting next weekend. This master bath is pretty small 96 x 76.5. It is in bad shape. This bath is on ground floor (ranch style house/no 1st), concrete slab. Initial pichers attached.

1. Vanity: It is 96 in wall to wall. The vanity is 36 in with single sink. I want to convert to double. Is it possible by using the existing drain if sink to sink is 3 to 5 ft apart? If not what is the max allowed (Anaheim, CA)?

2. Shower: It is 48 x 35. I want to tile shower walls up to ceiling. Can I order the kerdi shower kit and make any necessary cuts? If no cutting, would this be a mud candidate? I am thinking kerdi, but should I go with cbu with redguard (in case I do not get materials in time)?

3. Vent: Help! It has none right now. There is a small window about the vanity area. I need to put an exhaust. Please advise. I guess I have to make a hole on the vanity side to the exterior, eh?

Since this is small and not much room to build any walls, can you suggest some nice options? I do not want to use the same type of cheap shower doors and side it has now.

I am waiting for more pics. I asked for a full view also. I just want to order the kerdi/materials this week so they get there before I make the trip from TN.

12/08: Added pic of the vanity in this master bath.

Thanks.

[TileArt1]

Hey Vic,

1. Dunno, I'm not a plumber. Someone will help you with that, though.

2. You can use the Kerdi and cut it as needed. I think that's a pain, though. I would definitely mud that shower deck. You could build a half wall on the toilet side of that shower. That would make the bathroom look a bit bigger, too.

3. You need a vent of some sort in there. Where it needs to be vented is dependent on what you have available.

[Kman]

I believe you can use the same drain, but not the same trap, of course. You'll have to get into the wall at some point to get to the drain line.

You can definitely use the 48x48 tray and cut 6 1/2" off two opposite ends. Your perimeter will be lower just 1/8" on those two ends, which is not much to worry about.

The best place for an exhaust fan is just outside the shower door. If there is an attic overhead, you'll be able to cut a hole in the ceiling, then run the vent through the attic from the fan to a vented soffit.

With respect to the shower door, an easy option is to have a glass company put one in after you're finished. Depending on the size of the door, you may be able to pick up one at a big box store and install it yourself. In some cases, though, it's not worth the trouble if you can get one installed relatively cheap from a glass shop.

[surgeon]

Thanks Roger and Kevin. If I can save time and effort by using the tray and cut it, that would be great. This being my first mud deck, it probably would take time and don't want to mess up with the limited time for me to get done there.

1: That half wall sounds good. Later last night I was thinking the same, either glass blocks or just a standard build up. What if I try a glass block where the sliding doors were so that I do not need a door at all? That would take up more space then? Bad idea?

This is an old style house. I have never checked out their attic. Wonder if I can get in there. I did not see soffits the last time I looked around there. Will find out tonight.

2: To cut the tray, what type of blade should I get? Even if it takes a bit longer, it would save much time. May be to make up the 1/8th difference on the cut ends, can I slip in something like ditra or splice up a hardi or just put some thinset?

3: Since the shower drain looks centered, can I use it without major changes (digging etc) with the new kerdi assembly?

Vanity: I will tear up the drywall and do all the splits and plumbing there. If not it probably will be difficult to adjust and cut holes in the vanities.

[Kman]

Without a door you'd likely have a quite a bit of water splashing out into the bathroom. What's the size of the opening?

I think you can cut the tray with a regular hand saw. I would take measurements based on the location of the drain and cut according to that. Cutting it to the total width of the shower might cause you to move the drain to fit the tray. As far as the perimeter height being off, I wouldn't even worry about it. Just shim up the wall tiles on those two ends, then do the floor last and the thickness of the tile will cover the 1/8 gap.

[surgeon]

I am happy the vent issue is solved. Seems my dad got a opening/duct put in when he got the roof done. Now I just have to cut the ceiling, mount, and connect to that duct.

As for the door, will take Kevin's advice and check it out when I get there. I can get one put in after I get there. Maybe for the half wall too.

Shower kit/materials:
Kit? If not, kerdi roll, band, corners? For a standard tub conversion, how much do most people get? That much might work out here.

Thanks again.

[bbcamp]

We recommend buying only the Kerdi-mat, Kerdi drain fitting, Kerdi-band, Kerdi-Fix and the preformed corners. Not so much the tray, since they are easy to build from deck mud and allows you infinite possiblities in your shower. Measure your walls, then call the folks at www.tile-experts.com and let them figure your order. They'll include some overage, so you can make a couple of mistakes, if you want.

[Hammy]

Vic, ive got the trays down to needed size with a battery circular saw.

Where in TN are you? Hammy

[surgeon]

Hi Hammy, I am in Bellevue. Its nice to cut that with regular saw. Got more suggestions on the mud so I can go with mud.

Thanks Bob. Will call them and order. Mine is a typical rectangle, smaller than tub. No that I need to kerdi outside the shower, I was thinking just kerdi the whole wall. Is that overkill for that small area in pic3? I can continue tiling to drywall and hope not too much height diff.

If I do go with mud, do I have to down felt, pre-slope, put liner, mud then kerdi mat or just felt, mud, slope, then kerdi mat?

[Hammy]

If I do go with mud, do I have to down felt, pre-slope, put liner, mud then kerdi mat or just felt, mud, slope, then kerdi mat?
__________________
Vic

on concrete.... wet thinset ( for bonding ) Preslope, KERDI & Tile

on wood Tar paper, preslope KERDI & tile

I personally would NOT KERDI the walls outside the shower area. Too hard to finish unless its tiled. If youre looking for waterproofing on the floor outside the shower use DITRA.

Hammy

[surgeon]

Thanks Hammy. Yeah, I wanted to tile the whole wall if I have enough tiles (not sure how many boxes already there) past the shower.

I will DITRA the floor if there is no height problem to carpet (or if I can adjust with shims there). If not, I will redguard/hydroban the floor and tile over it. I have to jackhammer out the old ceramic tile in that bath.

[surgeon]

This is the weekend. Will be starting the demo Sunday. I will get the Kerdi materials at Bedrosians in Anaheim (thanks Andrew).

* On concrete, wet thinset, preslope, kerdi.
* Not sure what the drain pipe is yet. Hope its not iron.
* Want to make one or two niches.
* For the curb, I will use brick.
* Need to make one half-wall.

Questions
1. For the preslope, should I cut out wood shims or can I get something already? Or will it be trial-error? I want to get the right slope for kerdi drain.
2. For curb, is it better to use the cement (cinder?) blocks? I saw some at HD that look just like brick size, slightly longer.
3. For half wall, nail some 2x4s? Or can I use glass blocks? If I want to put glass for the rest, then no glass blocks?

First major bath remodel. Any extra tips? Thanks all.

[bbcamp]

1) Are you using the Kerdi tray? If so, you level the floor under the tray with deck mud. The tray needs full support from the floor. Otherwise, I don't understand the question.

2) Concrete blocks, clay bricks, pavers, etc are all good for making a curb on a slab. Use brick (mason's) mortar to bond then to the floor and to each other.

3) Again I don't understand the question. Decide what you want, we'll help figure the construction method.

[surgeon]

1. Well, most seem to suggest mud on concrete floor. Though I can mud if it is not too much trouble with the slope and drain. If tray is more suitable, can go with that.

3. For the half wall, I have to build from scratch. I can nail and use studs. I was asking if it is a good idea or not to use glass blocks. I have to then get a glass cut for the rest of the wall to go over it (partition wall) since it is a small rectangular shower. If I build up the wall height, might make the bath look smaller. I would be happy with the standard framing/studs.

[bbcamp]

1) Then you were talking about screed strips, not shims. Do this: mark you level line where the perimeter of the shower will be based on 1/4" per foot slope from edge of drain fitting to far corner of shower. Cut lengths of straight 1x lumber in various lengths that go from the drain flange to the walls. You want one that will reach the corner and one that will reach the near wall and a few in between. These are screed boards, keep them handy. Build a mud screed along the wall using deck mud. Build it up to the line and about a couple inches wide. Use your level and make the top very straight. Start filling in between the drain and the mud screed and use the appropriate screed board to strike of the mud at the proper slope. One end of the screed board rides in the mud screed, the other rides on the drain fitting. Pack the mud down and keep adding and screeding as you work your way around the floor. Switch screed boards as necessary.

3) Glass block walls need to be supported (anchored) by at least one framed wall.