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Unread 11-02-2012, 09:36 PM   #1
a1machinista1
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Am I on the right track?

Ok so I decided to redo our shower myself. I really need to admit that I think I know it all BUT I am well aware that in fact do not!! So I am here for advice on making sure that I am atleast giving our new shower a fighting chance. I can search the forums but thats no fun. Anyway chime in if you see something that you think may be an issue. Ok so heres what is done so far. Tiles were falling of the walls due to the ceramic tiles being set right on the drywall. So I tore out the drywall down to the studs. We moved our dining room wall to make the shower 9" longer. I broke up the concrete on the floor and cleaned everything up right down to the t&g flooring. I found that the t&g was SLIGHTY wet so Im glad i broke up the floor. I let the area dry for about 2 weeks and it seemed to dry quickly and sounds very solid. I put down a layer of #30 felt and then laid one piece of 1/2" durock to the floor and screwed it down on 6" centers... I then laid down another layer of #30 felt going up the walls and completely covering the whole shower area. I then "poured" a floor pan using Type S mortar sloped right to the drain housing. After the mortar dried I used the bucket of thin set mortar I was going to put the tiles up with to fill in any low spots I had before I laid the liner down. It was just a thin coat to make sure the floor was really smooth for the liner slope. After the mortar dried I installed the liner, folding the corners and going atleast six inches up each wall. and I only tacked the liner up high and on the outside of the curb. I then laid down a piece of wire mesh that I folded to fit nicely and it did. I then "poured" the shower pan using the same type S mortar over the liner and wire mesh. I spread the mortar the best i could as I am the first to admit that this is not something we should all be doing. (skill involved) Im happy with the slope and the height I have next to the the drain cover. (allowed for mortar and tiles) I then installed the 1/2" durock on the walls screwing at 6" centers. I then filled the joints with thin set mortar. I tried not to go to far into the "field" of the durock. Ok heres my first issue!!! I realized after I finish the main wall that I have installed one piece of durock smooth side out. OK so this is enough for now... I want to discuss all the issues so I will keep post shorter. rather than the whole story at once... I would really like to find someone that will give me feedback during the whole project. I will post some pictures.
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Unread 11-02-2012, 10:01 PM   #2
cx
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Welcome, Troy.

First, in future posts will you please try to break it up into some paragraphs to make it more readable. I fear a lot of our very helpful folks may not read your first post at all.

I'm concerned about some parts of your construction thus far.

1. Installing CBU over a sawn board subfloor is not approved by any CBU manufacturer. You may get by with it because it's under a traditional shower pan construction, but it's not a good idea. Having put roofing felt under the CBU rather than the bed of thinset mortar recommended by the manufacturer makes the situation a good bit worse.

2. You indicate you covered the shower walls with a #30 roofing felt moisture barrier, but did it before the pan liner was installed, which would result in the barrier being behind the pan liner instead of inside it as is necessary.

3. You indicate you created a pre-slope using Type S mortar, which is not the best choice but OK for a pre-slope if you can get it formed correctly. You don't indicate how much slope you built in. You then say "I used the bucket of thin set mortar I was going to put the tiles up with to fill in any low spots I had before I laid the liner down." Was that a bucket of pre-mixed material that required no mixing?

4. No indication of the use of any dam corners where you cut your pan liner to fold over the curb.

5. I'm curious about the wire mesh that you "folded" into the liner before using the Type S mortar for your final mud bed. In this case, the Type S is not what you want for your final mud bed and is not OK like it was for the pre-slope. I'm also curious as to how thick you made this final mud bed.

6. How close to the bottom of your CBU wall boards did you fasten them to the studs? Had you installed wood blocking between the studs prior to installing your pan liner?

7. I would not worry at all about having the smooth side of one CBU panel on the inside of the shower. You have lots more important things to worry about.

Can you post some photos of what you've got thus far and in progress? Use the paper-clip icon above the Reply dialog box to attach photos from storage on your computer.

My opinion; worth price charged.

You indicate you folded your pan liner "six inches up each wall," but don't indicate if that represents the required three inches above your curb height (very unlikely).
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Unread 11-02-2012, 10:34 PM   #3
a1machinista1
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1. I did not use mortar under the durock correct!!!

2. I did put the bottom felt up the wall and then after the liner was in I put the last "row" of felt over the top edge of the liner (about 4") liner is sandwiched between the felt layers so water will run down the walls to the liner if it leaks.

3. I tried to get as close to 1/4" per foot slope as I could. Yes no mixing on the thin set bucket. I used about a cup on the whole floor 40"x30" just to even the really small low areas to make sure the "flow" was perfect.

4. Yes on the corners.

5. why is it not ok? final bed is 1-1/2" approx at drain and 2"+ at walls

6. I have not fastened the bottom foot of durock yet. 2 walls have scabs between studs at 6" above bed. 3rd wall is almost all studs about ten studs in 40" wall. I didnt add scabs

7.OK

8. I do not have 3" above curb.. maybe 1"
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Unread 11-02-2012, 10:40 PM   #4
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Are you able to show us pictures.
Showing the curb, corners, fixture wall....
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Unread 11-02-2012, 10:46 PM   #5
a1machinista1
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I have to winterize our boat tomorrow but i will post pictures when I get home.
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