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Unread 01-15-2020, 10:44 PM   #1
whistler
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seeking advice on taking out dips and humps on a Hardiebacker floor before tile

good evening!i am tiling my kitchen floor about 100 sqft using 18x18 travertine tiles. i have glued and screwed 1/4 inch hardie board and taped all of the seemes to my floor ( 15 space for the joists ,1/2 inch plywood decking with 3/4 plywood) I have dips that are about 1/8 inch deep the largest of which is 3/16.
i have a hump that causes to have a 1/4 inch drop about a foot out from there. please help with any advice on the best way forward.
ps.sorry for the poor writing
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Unread 01-16-2020, 06:52 AM   #2
brandonw
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I'm not the most seasoned person but I'll throw in my opinion based off of what I've had to do. I won't use hardi anymore since it's not a real 1/2" and is more expensive. It also seems to be a lot thirstier when tiling. First attack the humps. I used 60 grit on a 5" DA but I do have a industrial compressor. If you have a random orbital that will work too. Go at it with 40 or 60 grit and don't worry about going too far. Next get yourself a 3-4ft straight edge and lay down mortar and fill in all the low spots. Let it cure.

I go over cured mortar with a hard brush to knock off all the crap then clean the mortar before going further. Lay down your thinset with a 1/4 trowel and start laying your tile. Once you get your second tile down bust out a good 4ft level and this is where you'll get your accurate level from. Keep going and level it all out.

If I missed something or am incorrect a senior member will correct me but it's worked for me.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 07:36 AM   #3
Lou_MA
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When you say “glued” down the hardibacker, did you actually use glue? It should have been fully bedded in a notched coat of thinset.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 08:13 AM   #4
speed51133
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those dip[s should be addressed before the hardibacker was attached. Also, you do not glue it, you notch mortar onto the floor. If you used beads of glue, I would remove it and start over. You need 100% coverage otherwise you are introducing deflection points.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 08:22 AM   #5
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Yep, what Mike said. Your floor doesn't necessarily need to be level but you do want to get it as flat as you can. I have used thinset for this although they do make fillers and levelers made just for this application. Use a straight edge to get the excess filler pulled back and let it set. A rub stone or rub brick is handy to knock down any ridges or high spots you may have left. Check the floor again to see if more filling is necessary.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 11:28 AM   #6
whistler
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thank you for the advice .by glued and screwed i meant that i had used the thinset and backer screws.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 11:44 PM   #7
Tool Guy - Kg
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While it’s physically possible to grind away high spots of the Hardibacker and might not harm the integrity of the installation, it’s not approved by the manufacturer and would put tons of yucky silica dust in the air for you to breathe. I would concentrate on filling the low spots with cementitious patching material or a self-leveling cement (which has its own prep, if that’s what you decide) that is meant for such.

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