Ellie's hall bathroom - Page 3 - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums

Gukki · 10-16-2010, 06:07 PM

Thanks for clearing that up, I'm sorry Ed, I misunderstood.
No wonder my better half just shook his head, asking where I was getting my advice from, haha.

cx · 10-16-2010, 06:19 PM

Ellie, I really think you should determine exactly what you have for subflooring. If, indeed, you have nothing but a half-inch layer over the joists, the advice on how best to install the second layer of 3/4" could be a good bit different.

Gukki · 10-16-2010, 09:54 PM

CX, it is 1/2" ply. Please tell me what would change?

Houston Remodeler · 10-17-2010, 07:34 AM

1/2" by itself is far too flexible between the joists for tile (or appliances for that matter)

Gukki · 10-17-2010, 07:46 AM

Good Morning Paul,

I realize that. The question is, how the installation of 3/4" ply differs, due to only having 1/2" ply underneath.

cx · 10-17-2010, 08:39 AM

Difference is not being able effectively to fasten second layer to the half-inch layer, Ellie. Can be done, of course, with proper pre-drilling and careful use of screws, but you'll likely be better of pretending it's not there and fastening your 3/4" ply to the joists as though it was the first layer. You'll get no real help from that thin first layer, anyway.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Gukki · 10-17-2010, 08:53 AM

I see. This will take a bit of preparation to avoid hitting all those nails holding down the half inch layer, pre-drilling and using long enough screws.
Thanks.

Houston Remodeler · 10-17-2010, 11:57 AM

Shouldn't need to predrill if you use nice decking screws with torx or square drive heads.

Gukki · 10-17-2010, 06:06 PM

It's IN!

What a difference, it feels SOLID.

We fastened long screws into the joists and then used shorter ones to pull up the 1/4" ply as well.
CX, just as you said: it takes a bit of care to figure the proper pre-drill depth and then slowing the screwdriver to successfully pull up that 1/4" ply. But the screw lets you know with a nice squeaky sound when you've achieved it. Yeah!

Paul, this not being our day job, we didn't mind the pre-drilling. One of us drilled, the other fastened the screws, very companionable, we enjoyed it.

Thanks so much for being patient and answering all my dumb questions.

Houston Remodeler · 10-17-2010, 08:37 PM

Ellie,

That's great to be able to work together like that.

There are no dumb questions, if this were easy, none of us would have a job.

Gukki · 10-18-2010, 09:40 PM

So the next project is to put the new fiberglass/acrylic tub into the alcove.

We are planning on using 1/2" CBU around the tub and extend a couple of inches into the rest of the room.
We'll use regular drywall everywhere else.
We will tile around the tub and continue to about halfway up around the rest of the room.
The alcove measures 60 3/4" in length. The tub including the tile flange measures only 60".

I have the following questions:

1. What can we do, so that the CBU will end up over the tile flange on both sides of the tub, not behind it?
2. If as a solution to the above question, we add wood to the studs to bring the CBU over the flange, then the drywall and CBU will not at all line up by about 3/4". How would we deal with that?

cx · 10-18-2010, 09:45 PM

1. Shim out the studs (plywood strips my favorite) or sister additional studs to the correct plane (allows plumbing and flattening).

2. Shim out the rest of the wall or call that jog a feature and put a nice trim piece there. Features are good. Features are helpful. Features are our friends.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Gukki · 10-19-2010, 07:07 AM

CX, thanks for making me see that I have a new, good and helpful friend.

Gukki · 11-22-2010, 12:39 PM

Hi All,

Since my last post we've completed the plumbing for the tub/shower and insulated the whole room.
We had a contractor install the drywall and durock around the tub. He did a great job with the drywall finishing.

BUT, he also meshed/mudded the gaps between the durock with joint compound, which brings me to the following question:

Is this ok? Shouldn't he have used thinset for this along with specialty mesh?

A. Should we tile right over it?
B. Leave it and roll Redguard over it?
C. Sand it off and mesh and mud with thinset?

Houston Remodeler · 11-22-2010, 12:48 PM

1- dopeslap the drywall guy

2- paint over it with Zinser (oil based that you can latex over in 1 hour) or Kilz

3- redguard and tile as usual

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