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12-05-2006, 11:31 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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backsplash layout above tile top?
Ok so I want to tile up the wall a little and cannot figure out if I should line up the joints on the couter with the wall joints. I am going to frame the tile field on the wall up with bullnose so if I line the joints up I have to cut at least the first tile and then I would wind up screwed up on the end due to the bullnose either protruding beyond a joint or having a tiny sliver of a tile between the bullnose and next full tile.
Pictures of the counter
  
picture of the possible layout overlapping the joints

of course I would adhere the tiles to the wall and not the counter
Thanks all suggestions welcome
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 11:41 AM
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#2
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Trowel Monkey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
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Hello Ben,
If you are going to use the same tile and a straight-lay patterns you should match the joints. I'm not clear about your bullnose dilemna though??
Shaughnn
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12-05-2006, 11:52 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 11:55 AM
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#4
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Trowel Monkey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
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Ben,
Never put a cut between full tiles if you can help it. In your situation, if I'm understanding it correctly, you should run your tile out and cut down the bullnose to get the final dimension.
Did that help?,
Shaughnn
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12-05-2006, 12:03 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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yea I think so I will put the bullnose up and cut the first tile to line it with the grout lines then put full tiles all the way to end the last tile will be cut and the bullnose will be trimmed to line up with the joint.
as for a cut tile between a full tile Does a bullnose count as a full tile?
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 12:06 PM
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#6
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Trowel Monkey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
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Ben,
Is your bullnose 6"x6" or is it narrower than the field tile on the counter top? If it's narrow, I mis-spoke and it is sometimes okay to cut the field tile next to it.
Sorry if I'm being confussing here.
Shaughnn
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12-05-2006, 12:11 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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the bullnose is narrower and longer here these might help although you cannot tell by the pics the bullnose at the cabinet end would have to be trimmed about 1/8" to fit against the cabinet and still line up with the joint. You don't see it because the cabinet does not have its final trim piece which fits against the wall installed yet

Thanks a lot
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 12:23 PM
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#8
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Trowel Monkey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
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Thanks Ben,
I'll revise my original advice and suggest that you trim the field tiles to accomodate the bullnose trim. Sorry about the confussion and thank you for being persistant.
Shaughnn
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12-05-2006, 12:26 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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Thanks Shaghnn but one last thing is it ok to trim the bullnose down at the cabinet end so it matches the joint?
I will worry about the other wall later....
Oh yeah this is for you

hope you like it, its all I had in the fridge.
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 12:27 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 26
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No matter how ben lays out his bullnose and field tile, there is going to be a layer of thinset behind the tile that will be visible from the side. What should he do about that?
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-Brent
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12-05-2006, 12:32 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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I was going to use loctite powergrab on the bullnose which the manufacturererererer says will hold the tile up there as good as any thinset or otherwise and I have tendency to think that is true so I should not be very visible.
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 12:33 PM
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#12
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Trowel Monkey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
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Ben,
It's okay to trim the bullnose down to match the joint if that's the look you want.
I'm a little worried about your choice of beverages to offer though. Didn't you find my advice helpful? Are you saying I'm fat?
Brent,
The thinset should not be visible but you are correct that some gapping will occur. This is usually filled with sanded grout which is then back-beveled to create a channel for a bead of acrylic caulking. Without the bed of grout, the joint might be too deep in spots and sag.
Shaughnn
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12-05-2006, 12:42 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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awesome sorry about the beverage but I am as skinny as they come and I still drink lite beer mostly. Luckily I ran to the store for you so here you go...... Brilliant
Thanks for the advise!
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Ben the Hoosier
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12-05-2006, 12:47 PM
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#14
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Trowel Monkey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
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Ben,
Your thinset should be sufficient. No need to bring the Locktite into the mix. Just use the corner or your sponge or an old paint brush with a bucket of water to clean out the edges and you'll be fine.
Shaughnn
PS: Much better there, Ben. I've got a 7-pack in my cupboard even as I type this. It was an 8-pack until last night.
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12-05-2006, 03:45 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 38
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1 row done I only have short periods of time to work on it so......
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Ben the Hoosier
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