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12-23-2005, 08:01 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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off topic help?
Can anyone point me in the right direction or know the answer to my question?
I just had granite countertops installed in my kitchen and want to know the "correct process for mounting a cast iron undermount sink".
The installers did it, but it doesn't seem like it will hold up how it's done. The sink is 125lb alone and will be much heavier full of water. All they did is nail two 6" pieces of 2x2 to the back of my cabinet and rested the sink on them and the front sits on 3/16" of the notched out cabinet front panel. Nothing on the sides and no silicone/adhesive at all.
Any thoughts or suggestions on where to get this answer is appreciated. Thanks, Andy
__________________
Andy
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12-23-2005, 08:56 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: in a closet with a pail of hydroban and a pail of spectraLock waiting to get out.
Posts: 6,788
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thats will hold it. i had alot of under mounts done for me with stone thats what they do put 2 sticks in and drop the sink in then slap the slab on top. Some use pins and epoxy it to the slab first. Pm stone advice hes a big stone nut or Granite girl shes much cutier and loves stone
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12-24-2005, 12:04 AM
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#3
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,479
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Are the (2) 6" pieces mounted vertically over 2 different studs? If so, and if the wood isn't already split from a couple big nails driven through a shorty 6" 2x2, then it will probably will continue to hold ok on the back. As for the support on the front of the cabinet...I don't know how the cabinet was built, so can't comment on that part.
Me? I would put a 1x or a 2x cleat on the left and right sides of the cabinet walls to directly support the sides of the sink. If the cabinet walls are a little wimpy, extend supports from these cleats down to the bottom of the cabinet.
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12-24-2005, 09:48 AM
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#4
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Retired Tile & Stone Contractor
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 11,576
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Hi Andy
Without seeint the job it is difficult to properly acess the installation. You are off to a good start. I wood like to see some additional support on the sides though. Another good idea is to glue and screw these supports.
You also need to have a seal between the stone and the sink. Did they at least caulk the void at the perimeter of the sink afterwards?
Can you post some pictures?
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12-24-2005, 09:54 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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I'll try and post pics but no they didn't seal the sink to the countertop either. I called them and they said that is the plumbers job.
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Andy
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12-24-2005, 09:59 AM
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#6
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Retired Tile & Stone Contractor
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 11,576
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Hi Andy
It's a plumbers job if the plumber installed the sink. Who's installing the faucet etc.?
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12-24-2005, 10:11 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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Pic 1
Pic 2 Show no caulk or silicone between sink and top
Pic 3 Shows 2x2 fastened to rear of cabinet with 1x2 fastened to that and sink sets on 1x2(which we can see has split where fasteners went through it)
Pic 4 Shows sides with no support and front edge which sits on aprox 3/16" of the front of my cabinet which they nothced out.
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Andy
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12-24-2005, 10:12 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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plumber is doing the faucets,(I just placed them in to see how they look)
ps. I had to pay the countertop people an extra $325 for the cast iron sink mounting over the cost of mounting a stainless steel sink.
__________________
Andy
Last edited by Viper; 12-24-2005 at 10:18 AM.
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12-24-2005, 11:54 AM
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#9
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Retired Tile & Stone Contractor
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 11,576
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Hi Andy
That installation looks borderline at best. I wouldn't hesitate to add additional support. I'd probably start with vertical 2x4's in the back (prestain if you want to look better). Something added to the sides would also be more reassuring. $325 extra for that installation seems to be excessive to me. We usually don't charge extra unless a metal bracket kit is used. Then the charge is minimal.
It appears that clear silicone was used between the sink and countertop for installation (or the top was rodded for strength).
I would ask your plumber to give you a bead of white silicone at the inside bowl perimeter. A small hand squeeze tube will work best. Otherwise, you may even want to do it.
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12-24-2005, 01:12 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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I talked to my brother who was here when they did the install and he said after they had finished he questioned if the sink would hold and that is when they put a bead of silicone around the sink edge under the counter and smeared it with their finger. He said NONE was used between the sink and countertop during installation but just added after the install when he questioned it. No rodding was done either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doitright
It appears that clear silicone was used between the sink and countertop for installation (or the top was rodded for strength).
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None of the above was done.
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Andy
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12-24-2005, 01:24 PM
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#11
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Retired Tile & Stone Contractor
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 11,576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper
my brother questioned if the sink would hold and that is when they put a bead of silicone around the sink edge under the counter and smeared it with their finger.
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Like that's going to help!
Silicone is for sealing only. A mechanical anchoring system is the only thing that is guaranteed to hold this sink up.
Call the owner of the fabrication shop, and ask him to take a look at your job, and see if this is what $325 buys. Also ask him if this installation (of the sink) would be acceptable in his own house.
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12-24-2005, 01:29 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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Thanks for the replys. I will contact them on monday or tuesday(whenever they are open) and ask that they have someone look at it. I just wanted to be able to tell them exacty what the correct way to do it is(this way they can't try and jack with me thinking I wont know any better).
__________________
Andy
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12-24-2005, 01:33 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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By the way, I see you are from Illinois same as me and this is a rather large company from chicago who did this. I can post who it is if anyone wants to know.
__________________
Andy
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12-25-2005, 06:27 PM
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#14
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STT Owner
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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Hi Andy,
A "box" made from 1x2's is OK for the mechanical bracing as long as anchored well to the interior of the cabinet. This one looks like what Doitright said, borderline. Though wood on its end can withstand more weight than what the sink and water would have combined.
I'd want better.
BTW I own a fab shop as well.
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12-25-2005, 06:48 PM
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#15
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,479
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Holy splitsville on that shorty wood support!  ...the very thing I was concerned about with such a short piece of wood. I thought for sure they'd at least have those shorty pieces mounted vertically to get a couple of fasteners into the stud. But horizontally, with one fastener....and splitsville?...Yikes. And it's a little hard to tell from the pic, but there doesn't appear to be much wood under the lip of the front of the sink.
I'd ask for an owner or manager to come look at it to show them how unacceptable the job was done. After that job of hanging the sink, I wouldn't let them have another go at it. I'd ask for the mounting charge back and redo it yourself.
Last edited by Tool Guy - Kg; 12-25-2005 at 06:53 PM.
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