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Unread 11-21-2020, 11:08 PM   #91
cx
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Anything taller than 8-foot walls require fire blocking in my part of the world. Once again, just knowing what I do about the plumbing code "differences" in Florida, I really don't know if they'd somehow consider what you have to be fire blocking. And I'm not aware of any structural requirements that the blocking would fulfill. Bottom line? I dunno what they're for, but I'd not hesitate to remove the one in the way of your niche. See my warranty information below.

I'm accustomed to framing in my own niches. If you're using some sort of pre-fab niche, you do what the manufacturer's requirements call for. If it makes you more comfortable, tack in another horizontal framing member above or below the niche, or both. But with only a nine-foot ceiling, I dunno why you'd need it for any structural reason. But I been wrong before.

Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will come along and show you the error in my ways here.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-22-2020, 08:22 AM   #92
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It’s a Kerdi niche. I still am toying with layout but I won’t feel bad about taking it out then. I’ll add one in at some point just so I can sleep at night.


I bought a tube of Kerdi fix at Lowe’s but can’t find a key for the date code. Anyone know if this is still good to use? I’ve purchased silicone before that was old so I try to check now, but I have no clue about this code:




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Unread 11-22-2020, 11:00 PM   #93
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Greg's New Shower Project

Hi all,

I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find a schluter date code key - I am going to assume the Kerdi fix is good - no reason to suspect it isn’t. I’m not really sure why I even bought it it other than to have it on hand if needed, although I think silicone would probably have served the same purpose for most of my needs.

I’m in the process of adjusting the framing, running plumbing, and shimming walls (which I hate). So a few questions as I finish this and get ready for the next phase.

1. Using Moen posi-temp valve and a Moen transfer/diverter valve. They will be on separate walls. In placing the mixing valve I found that a horizontal 2 x 4 brace I put in at the back of the stud bay was too thick to use to attach the valve to. The plaster guard stuck out too far past the stud. The 2x4 was already back as far as it would go so I ended up planing down / chiseled out 1/4 a to 1/2 and inch out of the middle of that 2 x 4 brace to allow the valve to sit further back. I found that odd and am wondering if I did something wrong. For those of you familiar with Moen valves - is this normal?

2. The plumbing is set up currently with the supply lines on one wall and I will run new pipe through the attic over to the opposite wall to the valve. Then I will run another pipe back over to the original plumbing wall to a diverter valve. From that valve pipe will go to a shower head and handheld. The “in” on the diverter is on the bottom of the valve - I think normal procedure is that the top of the mixing valve feeds the bottom of the diverter valve - so the diverter usually sits right above the mixing valve. In my case it’s ok a different wall - so the pipe will run up from the mixing valve, through the attic, down the other wall, then under the diverter valve and back up to fit into the port. Anything wrong with that? I assume I shouldn’t just mount the diverter valve upside down.

3. When it is time to do the mortar bed, is a 2 x4 ok as a tool to screed between the drain and screed perimeter or is there a tool I need to get to do that.

4. I bought a wood float and a steel trowel to pack down the mortar bed and smooth it out. They had a magnesium float but I bought the wooden one instead. Do I need the magnesium float?

5. Ok to mix half a bag of mud mix at a time so it fits in the 5 gallon bucket? Or will a whole bag fit?

6. The 2 x 6 studs are strapped to the bottom plate. Glad they are - but - it causes an issue with the Kerdi board. The straps will cause the Kerdi board not to lay flush against the stud. There will be about 2” of deck mud to eat some of that up but I still need to figure out how to deal with that. What’s the best way to handle this? Maybe cut out the back of the Kerdi board where the straps are?




Thanks!!

Greg


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Unread 11-23-2020, 08:21 AM   #94
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Has been a while since I installed a shower valve, Greg. Are you certain the instructions say the plaster guard needs to be X from the studs, and not X from the finished wall? Regardless, nothing wrong with trimming that 2X4 to achieve the depth required for the valve. You could easily use a piece of 1X material also.

Orientation of the installed diverter probably has more to do with in what direction the handle points when installed than it does with actual operation of the diverter. But you might check to see if that diverter is meant for a tub filler + shower head, as the GPH rating of the two outputs might be different.

Having trouble visualizing your pipe runs, a diagram and photos might help. Someone with more acute reading comprehension might, too.

Any straight edge of sufficient length will do, but 2X's are often not straight. Maybe a sacrificial bubble level will do. I've never set a mud bed, but from reading here it seems the wood float for packing will be fine. It's ok to mix and set 1/2 a bag at a time but you don't want to set a 1/2 bag, then wait for hours and hours before setting the next batch, which would result in a cold joint.

Yup, I'd cut out a bit of the back of the KB to allow room for those straps.
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Unread 11-23-2020, 09:28 PM   #95
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Greg's New Shower Project

Yes, it's to the finished wall. Problem is, it's hard to tell where the finish wall ends up. I held up a piece of Kerdi board over the studs to gauge it and there was still almost the entire plaster guard sticking past the end of the KB. After I planed it down sthere is about 1/4"to 1/8"of the plaster guard sticking out if I hold up the kerdi board and a piece of tile. How do I know about how much space the thinset will take up? I am putting up 8" x 16" tile. I'll probably use a 1/4 x 3/16" square notched trowel to be safe on coverage. Would you figure about 1/8" of thinset under the tile? 1/4"? I guess in general, when measuring for anything like this, how do you know how much space to account for when working with thinset? IS there a rule of thumb?



Sorry - I know the plumbing explanation is confusing. I don't explain things well when typing - I know what I mean in my head but I hate typing...so...it kind of gets abbreviated. Pretty much, the supply lines come in on the right wall of the alcove. They will be run up and over through the attic to the main valve on the left wall. Then the valve "out" will go to a diverter valve back on the right wall where the supply lines start. We just needed to move the valve so you can turn the shower on without having to be in the shower and get blasted with cold water at first. But that means the "out" from the mixing valve will technically be coming from above the diverter instead of from below the diverter. The "inlet" port on the diverter is on the bottom, so I will have to run the plumbing from above the diverter to lower than the diverter and then back up to the inlet. Would be easier to explain with pics but I think it will be ok.



The problem with using the level for the screeding is I need different lengths of straight edges. But I'd be glad to use it. I'll see what other straight edges I can find.



Finally got the framing as "in plane" as I could get it. I sistered up some of the studs and then for some others I ripped 1/8" lengths of shims from 2 x 4s and screwed them on. It's as good as it can be. I know wet shimming seems to be all the rage now but oh well!



Hopefully will finish plumbing tomorrow and can start drywalling the rest of the bathroom. Then I will texture and maybe even prime and paint so none of that gets in the way of the shower construction. Once that is done I'll put up the kerdi board, build the curb, mud the pan, etc, and start to tiling...Exciting...



By the way - I'm not tiling all the way to the ceiling. I bought regular drywall for the rest of the bathroom and was going to use some of that to finish the last 2-3 feet above the shower head where I removed the bump out. It didn't occur to me that I could have bought the purple drywall. Will this regular old drywall be ok?



Thanks!
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Unread Yesterday, 10:10 AM   #96
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Not sure I've ever seen a 1/4x3/16ths" square notched trowel, Greg. With your tiles I'd start with a 1/4x1/4" square notch and adjust from there if it was not working. The tile industry standard requires a minimum of 3/32nds" of mortar under the tile after it is set with at least an average of 95 percent coverage on the back of each tile with good coverage on edges and corners.

The only way to know for sure what you'll have is to set a few or your tiles using your trowel, your mortar, and your technique and see what you get. If it's not satisfactory, adjust one or all of those things.

For different lengths of screed sticks you can simply cut straight edged 1x4 boards to length. Very common thing to do when working with deck mud, 'specially in showers. When you get down to the fine tuning you can use smaller, thinner boards. I've found 5-gallon-size wood stir sticks very useful at times, but I also have a couple sets of magnesium angle straight-edge sets with cut down pieces that I use for most mud work (which I no longer even do if I can help it) But I'm still equipped! I do not use my levels for screeding mud except in emergencies.

Regular gypsum drywall is fine in all dry area applications. I personally see no advantage to any of the MR boards out there other than to satisfy the whims of code compliance inspector in some jurisdictions. And there are downsides to their use in some applications.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread Yesterday, 09:26 PM   #97
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Greg's New Shower Project

Oops - I may have meant 1/4 x 3/8 in trowel my bad. Thanks.

I’ll look for 1 x 4s. It seems like nothing is ever straight when I buy it at Homer’s but I’ll look.

Finished the plumbing tonight.







Things seem ok but I’m concerned about where I transitioned from CPVC to pex at the bottom of that wall. Those lines go up and over to the other wall where the valve is, and then one line comes back and goes to a diverter valve which then goes to the two shower fixtures. When I glued the cPVC to Pex adapters on I made sure the pipes were dry. But when I came back to check 30 minutes later the hot line was filled with water and water was actually dripping down from the top of the open adapter. ( hadn’t connected the pex yet - wanted the glue to dry first) At that point I just connected the pex and hoped for the best but the glue pretty much had to have been wet for a while, if not most of the time. I turned on the water and no leaks - I was really afraid the fitting was going to blow off but it’s been holding up fine for 3 hours now. Do I need to keep worrying about this or can I let it go?

My other concern is that the ell for the handheld is too short. The instructions say to leave 3/8”
of an inch protruding from the finished wall. When I hold a piece of Kerdi board and tile flush against the studs I just about get 3/8”. But that doesn’t account for thinset or anything Kerdi band/pipe seal - etc. trying to figure out how to handle that.

Next phase is drywalling the rest of the bathroom where it needs it. Let me know if there are any major problems with the plumbing or reframing you can see. I had to reframe one of the walls to fit a niche.

Thanks!

Edit: I had another question. I had to drill through my top plates to run the pipes up and down from the attic. I was going to use regular spray foam to help seal the holes but I see in other spots wires have red fire blocking. So I bought fire blocking foam - but then I was worried if that should be used with pex. What should I use to help seal those holes that is safe for pex?


Thanks!!
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