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Unread 04-03-2012, 07:41 PM   #31
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Could you NOT use primer for SLU

Was thinking after reading about the LevelQuick disaster in the shallow end,
Would it be possible to burn-in modified thin set and then pour SLU WITHOUT
using the primer on a concrete application? It seems to me it would work very similar to a bonded mud bed? Only difference would be that the thin set would have to be allowed to dry. Any thoughts?

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Unread 04-03-2012, 08:05 PM   #32
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I think you should ask that question of the particular SLC company who's product you intend to use that way, Phil. The rest of us would just be guessing, or/and asking why you'd wanna do that.

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Unread 04-03-2012, 08:07 PM   #33
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I wouldn't thinks so have you ever used Prime WE it is super sticky when dry.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 08:09 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Phil
Only difference would be that the thin set would have to be allowed to dry.
That's when you'd apply the primer.
mm (aka "Paco")
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Unread 04-03-2012, 09:15 PM   #35
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I have to ask WHY not use the primer.
There are hundreds of different SLU applications and each one requires different approach, prep, primer etc..
I can only speak up for Ardex toppings and underlayments.
The primers used in their applications are used to improve the adhesion. Some of them are used over cutback, ceramic, terrazzo, epoxy coatings and some other non-water soluble adhesive residues.
I don't see how the SLU could benefit from the thin set applied to the substrate
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Unread 04-03-2012, 09:23 PM   #36
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I've done it...but that doesn't make it right. I just forgot primer that day.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 09:32 PM   #37
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Other than the manufacture warranty. I see no reason why one could not burn in thinset to a clean slab and yield a good bond. I personally have had failures over slc primer and wondered why I spent so much money on primer.
I've use diluted redgard as a primer for many applications where the substrate maybe in question. Will the manufacture stand behind it? That's a techinical discussion. As for what I'm willing to warrant, 25 years installing over so many varied surfaces without fail tells me that I'll stand behind my work.
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Her contractor said she could have it installed today.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 09:46 PM   #38
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I tore out about 400ft of the wood look porcelain bout 6 months ago that was completely hacked. They laid it all in one day and once the homeowners saw it they didn't even want it grouted. The people who did it the first time made a poor attempt to flatten the floor using 2 bags of slu but didnt use the primer. those portions had come out in sheets over clean smooth concrete. The thinset was bonded well to the concrete though, so I don't think the slu didnt bond because the floor was dirty. For some reason this site is having problems retrieving pics from my phone so I can't post the pictures of 2' diameter slu pancakes with thinset holding them together that just fell off the floor for me.
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Unread 04-05-2012, 05:53 PM   #39
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using foam with SLU

Anyone have pictures of using spray foam or foam tape or sill sealer for the perimeter expansion with SLU? How do you treat the door threshold , floor heat registers and around the toilet collar? I'm looking for pictures - if you have them.

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Unread 04-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #40
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Hi Phil you are really going all out on this SLC stuff eh?
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Unread 04-05-2012, 06:32 PM   #41
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There should be pics on one of the many SLC threads....

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling

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Unread 04-05-2012, 06:39 PM   #42
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No pictures, but I use the tape kind and I stick them to the floor,instead of the wall. less likely to lose any through gaps that way.
Sorry no pics
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Unread 04-05-2012, 08:21 PM   #43
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at doorways I put a piece of 1x2 and use a cheap white acrylic caulk to seal the gaps.
after its dried I pop it up.
register vents can be boxed out the same way.
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Unread 04-27-2012, 04:40 AM   #44
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Did ya Learn that from Me Brian he he....

I read Through this...bbcamp is right....CX is Spot on

As to skimming with a thinset before pouring....Oneof the crews at the shop did an old armory and while an abatement team removed the old flooring, they did clean the floor before pouring SLC..It Failed.

I was sent in and removed a 300 + s/f pour and rather than Risk another failure I skimmed a full strength Keralastic Over the area, allowed this to cure overnight then Primed this and Poured....The installation was a success.
If you ever question the possibility of concrete chemical contamination then perhaps this is Worth the extra step...other than that, encapsulating cutback etc might be another reason to do the above.

Now to Quote the Original Post.........

.( I still think that
when it's laminated to the plywood with the thin set under it and then mechanically fastened, it DOES add something) But, that debate it for another thread and day.

I do not mean this to sound condecending bit cant stress enough how important this is....
Denial will not make it so period. If you have said it does add strength to clients in the past you were wrong, You are human, we all make mistakes. Own up to it and move on because wishful thinking is Just that.....Now that you have Good information that is one mistake you will no longer make.

This is what is Great about a site like this for those who are new to the trade brushing up on their technical skills, or perhaps expanding on an established other flooring business. Here you can get the solid information that was hard to find at one time and put it to use right away saving you a potential nightmare and That is always a Good thing!!
TIP YOUR TILE MAN, His Retirement plan is not nearly as lucrative as yours and his waning years will be far more painful to boot.
He gives much so you can have a Beautiful Home!!
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Unread 06-13-2014, 04:33 PM   #45
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Perimeter gap for SLU pours

We have been here before and many already know my position for this. I was wondering, of the guys that use PINK sill seal as the perimeter seal before an SLU pour, How do you stop the material from going UNDER it?
Do you caulk first?, after you tape the sill seal to the wall?
And , How do you address the door openings and floor registers?
Pictures would be great!

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