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Unread 02-26-2013, 10:33 AM   #1
acribb
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Using a 6" profiling blade on a 10" tile saw

I have what appears to be a clone of a MK101, a glorious and prestigious Harbor Freight Chicago Tools 46225 10" tile saw - http://images.harborfreight.com/manu...6999/46225.pdf

I bought this in 2005 and between my dad's and my house, have probably cut a large amount of tile on this thing. Honestly it has served me and my family quite well.

I am currently using it on a 6 x 12 marble job in my guest bathroom and would like to use a 6" bullnose profiling blade to put an edge on the tiles.

The MK101 says it will fit a 6" profiling blade, but from looking at the two saws' diagrams, I'm not sure how it even works on the MK101 to compare to how I could get it to work on my generic 10" tile saw.

Can anyone edumacate me?

MK101-
http://www.mkdiamond.com/pdf/manuals...4_MK101_OM.pdf

Chicago Tools 46225 - http://images.harborfreight.com/manu...6999/46225.pdf
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Unread 02-26-2013, 10:47 AM   #2
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Adam, if your saw has sufficient depth/plunge adjustment, you may be able to use that wheel just fine. If not, you're mostly out of luck.

Type profile into the Advanced Search feature and ask for Titles. You'll find discussion of what you want to do and possibly a thread or two concerning your particular saw.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 10:59 AM   #3
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I have been using an MK101 with a 6" profile wheel so I can tell you how it works on the MK. You just need to lower the cutting head in order for the wheel to contact the tile.

Don't know much about the HF saw but you need to figure out if you can lower the head sufficiently on your saw to be able to make it work.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 11:06 AM   #4
jcmartin217
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You might be able to make a jig for your table that would raise the tile to the height needed to use the profile wheel.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 11:09 AM   #5
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I thought about a jig that would raise the height. I could easily make one out of wood, but I'm concerned about the water exposure.

Any ideas?
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Unread 02-26-2013, 12:19 PM   #6
RedRock
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I wouldn't worry about the wood if you build a jig. Just profile all the tiles you think you will need plus a couple extra. The wood jig may end up being a "one time use only" if it warps.

Remember once the tiles are profiled, this is just your first step. You will still need to polish the edge. You might want to practice polishing a few scraps before tackling the final pieces.

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Unread 02-26-2013, 12:26 PM   #7
acribb
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This is honed marble. How much additional finishing will be needed and how?

Good point. I was thinking in terms of profiling each as I do each row slowly, but yeah it would probably make more sense to cut them all at once and cut them all a little longer and wider.

Which brings me to my next question. I see that there are wheels you can put on angle grinders. Is this better? Intuitively I would not think so, but Paul (Houston Remodeler) mentioned that it was hard to get a consistent edge with a wheel. This has me concerned.

I'd like to buy the right thing once!
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Last edited by acribb; 02-26-2013 at 12:33 PM.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 12:51 PM   #8
Tool Guy - Kg
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Does your saw have a height adjustment on it or not? Look for a knob close to the motor. Typically, there's an arc-shaped slot that allows the motor height to be adjusted up and down. But after just reviewing a HF tilesaw pic, it may be a vertical bolt directly on top of the motor with a know on top and a giant wing nut on it.

A variable speed grinder outfitted with a diamond profiling bit will allow you to have more consistent results compared to a tilesaw outfitted with a profiling wheel if the tiles vary in thickness. Since the tilesaw references the depth of cut from the bottom of the tile, a thicker tile will be cut into more deeply, and thinner tiles cut into more shallow....which is frustrating to say the least.

The profiling bit you'd use on a grinder references its cut from the top of the tile. So, it doesn't matter if the tile varies in thickness, you always get the same relative depth cut. But the variable speed grinder is an additional tool you'd need that will add to your expense. If consistency is paramount, this is the route you'd likely want to go.

About polishing. Do you have any polishing equipment or pads? Or were you hoping to use sandpaper and a woodworking sander?

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Unread 02-26-2013, 12:57 PM   #9
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It does have a height adjustment, but I think its as far down as it can go if I recall correctly.



Polishing-
I was planning on using my 5" variable woodworking RO sander with 150 grit at low speed.



I am new to working with stone so any advice on how to accomplish what I am wanting to do relatively inexpensively would be great.

I need to profile probably 25 linear feet of 3/8" thick carrara tile.

I have a 10" tile saw, a 1 speed angle grinder, a Craftsman belt sander with a worn 6" sanding disc (can you replace those?) and a 5" RO variable speed palm sander.

I would also like to know how to put a nice 1/2" radius curve on the tile as well (with the bullnose edge) for the niche shelves.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 01:08 PM   #10
Tool Guy - Kg
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Time to investigate that height adjustment more thoroughly. Is it an arc-shaped open slot that allows you to visually see the available adjustment range? Or is it that vertically mounted bolt on top of the motor that doesn't allow you to see the available adjustment range?

If you have limited tools, I'd use that 5" random orbital sander of yours. Start out with rougher grit in the range of 60-80 grit to remove the scratch marks from the rough profiling. Then work your way up until you're satisfied with the level of honing.

Your single speed angle grinder won't do you much good for this job unless you used it free-hand to establish a rough profile...which I don't recommend.

Yes, you can replace your 6" disk, but it won't do you much good for this particular job.

And if you want a different radius for the tile than the niche shelves, realize that you need to either buy two profile wheels or spend additional time sanding or grinding the larger radius. I'd suggest sticking to a 3/8" radius for your wheel (for tilesaw) or bit (for a variable speed grinder).

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Unread 02-26-2013, 01:15 PM   #11
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I believe its the arc shaped slot, and I believe its already at it's highest point as indicated with this arrow, which leads me to believe that it's already set as low as it can go.

I will confirm after I get home tonight.

I'd like to learn more about polishing too. That 5" RO takes off material very quickly, even at low speed. How do I not destroy my profile with my sander? How rough of a cut does the wheel leave?

Would a grinder with a throttle handle work ok as a variable speed grinder?

I was wanting to round the edge so the top of the tile for the ledge looks like this. This is the curve of the tile i was referring to, with the bullnose profile.
Attached Images
  
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Unread 02-26-2013, 01:35 PM   #12
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The profile wheel leaves a nicely shaped, but roughly scratched profile. Imagine the scratches that would be left on the side of the stone if you took a belt sander that had 60 grit sandpaper to it. It will leave similar scratches along the length of the profile.

If you think the material is coming off the stone too quickly for you with the random orbital sander, just adjust the sandpaper grit up and speed down accordingly.

Throttle handle? That's normally associated with air tools. I was assuming your grinder was electric.

But realize this: a profile bit used on a variable speed grinder is a tool that needs to be flooded with water to keep the bit cool and the grinding face clean. There are holes within the bit that allow water to flow through it from the variable speed grinder's water nozzle. Without water, it's more likely to be impacted with dust too severely to work properly. Carrara is soft and you may get away with dry grinding, but the grit on the bit is similar to sandpaper. Imagine what happens to sandpaper when it gets clogged up and you can't clean it off...it becomes useless.

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Unread 02-26-2013, 01:57 PM   #13
acribb
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I was contemplating buying an air grinder for use with my 30gal compressor that puts out about 6 CFM at 90psi. I originally bought this for spraying paint, but I would love to expand its use!
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Unread 02-26-2013, 02:22 PM   #14
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Your compressor sounds way too under powered to even run an air polisher let along something with enough torque to route stone.

You best bet is to spend the $ and get a decent variable speed electric grinder that can be used for routing as well as polishing.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 02:23 PM   #15
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Remember, this will only be for home use:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...der-92623.html

Is this sufficient?
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