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Unread 03-01-2021, 06:20 PM   #31
cx
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Mike, the coverage is what's important, not the tool. If you end up with a minimum of 80 percent coverage with a minimum thickness of 3/32nds of an inch, it matters not whether you put it on with a teaspoon or a coal shovel.

If your tiles are flat and your substrate is flat, I think your 1/4"x3/8" square notch trowel should be fine.

But let's do wait for them tile gurus to weigh in. I swear some of'em recommend that half-inch square notch for mosaics, even.


My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 11:25 AM   #32
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I used a 3/8X3/8 slant notch trowel for all my 12/24's, Mike. Substrates and tile were pretty darn flat, but I did have sheet water proofing membrane build up in the corners in the shower area. The mortar thickness the 3/8X3/8 SN left allowed me to reduce the mortar thickness on the built up areas using either a 1/4X1/4 square notch for the spots that had 2 layers, or the 3/8X3/8 at a much shallower angle for the spots that had only one extra layer, and sill have good coverage. Did take forethought though.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 02:00 PM   #33
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Thanks Dan, I am not familiar with a slant notch trowel. What’s the difference other then being slanted?
Does it help roll the ridges into valleys better or something?
Anyhow, I will try either something like a 1/4x3/8 or 3/8 or similar because my test piece definitely showed better then 85% coverage and that was on a scrap piece of 3/4 ply I had and not sure even how flat it was.
One thing is for sure my floor is dead flat.
Checking it with 6ft and 4ft WxL and even dia. dead flat.

Thanks again to all the more knowledgeable like CX, KG and yourself and others for input. Learning many new things along the way which I really appreciate.
Might as well also give a shout to Sal Dablasi and Isaac Ostrom as I have watched a lot of their videos as well. I watch just about all their videos some not even pertaining to my exact needs but, very informative non the less.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 02:12 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Does it help roll the ridges into valleys better or something?
Yes, this, exactly.
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Unread 03-07-2021, 05:40 PM   #35
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Ok, few more questions fellas

So, I planning to cut my tile tomorrow I think so, I can have my layout ready to go.
Before I do though I want opinions again and clarification.
1. If I put a full tile against shower pan as that’s where I plan to start I end up with about a 1.5” piece against other wall. The catch is this wouldn’t normally be the preferred choice but, 24” will be hidden by the vanity, the toilet will block most of view of rest on other side and with the door open that blocks most on other side of vanity.
My other option is to rip the 24” long tile to 6-7” (it’s 11.75 wide un-cut) and start at shower pan with a 6-7” wide piece.

2. Along the door way which isn’t square along doorway 30” I was going to cut tile so it’s straight following hardwood & Ditra and then I plan on using a reducer as pictured (changed mind from original plans) and I would have to plane off some of bottom as my gap is 3/4. Thickness of tile is pictured laying on Ditra (add 1/4 for 1/2 trowel).
Are those reducers pretty common for this usage?

3. Also, on the outside wall there is a radiant heat pipe. It’s hard to get a full size trowel under so can I reverse the process and back butter the prefilled Ditra and trowel the Tile and set that way OR should I buy a 1/2 margin trowel and use short end to trowel under radiant heat finned pipe?
You can see finned pipe in 3rd pic down.

4.Also, I planned on using a leveling system but, cannot find one that includes 3/16 spacers so, unless anyone knows of a decent system I will be using the good ole level and tap method. It’s not that big of area so, it shouldn’t be to big a issue.

Sorry for so many questions I’m anal and want all my plans figured out beforehand.

What you say guys?
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Unread 03-08-2021, 07:49 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I’m anal and want all my plans figured out beforehand.
I share that affliction.

1) In some cases you can widen the grout joint to eliminate the slivers against the wall, but not in your case. I, too, would go with what you have given most all of it will be hidden.

2) Reducers, or transitions, are very common. A threshold of solid surface material, typically marble, is also common. If you can't find an off the shelf piece a stone fabricator can make one for not too much cost.

3) No problem to back-butter the tile in that case. I back buttered every single tile I installed in my master bathroom reno. I'm captain slow.

4) I used the Spin Doctor anti-lippage system, pretty sure they offer 3/16th spacers. Pricy though, but I haven't the talent to forgo such assistance.
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Unread 03-08-2021, 01:25 PM   #37
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I know I’m going a little bit overboard on questions and I apologize.
I’m just trying to do everything by the book.

So, after giving it a ton of thought and reading the TCNA articles it convinced me to have my layout so, there are no slivers at walls.
So, playing around I think I got the layout that will work best.
I put the plan into action and I must say it should look pretty good.
I’m with you Dan on having a full piece at shower pan but, the trade off was slivers. So, I split the difference so, there where no slivers. Having a full tile would been pretty but, slivers are UGLY I decided.

I think I will lay this group let it set then do other area. Not sure of any other way for me a rookie to do it. Suggestions?
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Unread 03-08-2021, 02:09 PM   #38
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Mike, if you get a layout that works and that Mrs. Mike likes, it's borderline perfect.

I will quote for you the salient "rules" for your layout from ANSI A108.02-4.3:

4.3.1. Center and balance areas of tile, if possible.

4.3.2. An excessive amount of cuts shall not be made. Usually, no cuts smaller than half size should be made. Make all cuts on the outer edge of the field.

4.3.3. Smooth cut edges. Install tile without jagged or flaked edges.

4.3.4. Fit tile closely where edges will be covered by trim, escutcheons, or other similar devices.

4.3.5. The splitting of tile is expressly prohibited except where no alternative is possible.

4.3.13. Make all layouts pleasing to Mrs. Customer.

You've generally followed all those guidelines?

Ok, so I made up the last one, but, again, it's still the most important.

Only suggestion I might make is that it appears you could have made the cuts in front of the shower a little bigger and made some large cuts at the opposite wall. But only if you're not happy with what you've got.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-08-2021, 02:20 PM   #39
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Quote:
CX:
I will quote for you the salient rules for your layout from ANSI A108.02-4.3:

4.3.1. Center and balance areas of tile, if possible.

4.3.2. An excessive amount of cuts shall not be made. Usually, no cuts smaller than half size should be made. Make all cuts on the outer edge of the field.

4.3.3. Smooth cut edges. Install tile without jagged or flaked edges.

4.3.4. Fit tile closely where edges will be covered by trim, escutcheons, or other similar devices.

4.3.5. The splitting of tile is expressly prohibited except where no alternative is possible.
Well, 4.3.1 I think I did good on.
4.3.2 I think I did ok on although kind of hard to keep pattern in closet with out cutting less then half.
4.3.3 I will need to smooth edges on tile way entry tiles with a stone but, haven’t done that yet.
4.3.4 I’m nailing it.
4.3.5 Well I had to split next to shower pan so, I had balanced sides versus having slivers.

At the shower pan I have 6” wide and on the wall in same plane I will have roughly 5.75”.
The wider I made the tile in front of pan the closer I get to slivers on wall and then it’s not balanced so to say. Isn’t what I did trying to conform too 4.3.1 ?
Please explain if I did something wrong as I will work to correct it.

Also, is it pretty common to stop tiling a section then restart due to access?
No problem doing that is there?

Thanks for input and patience.
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Unread 03-08-2021, 02:42 PM   #40
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I don't see where you would have split a tile, Mike. Maybe you could point that out?

As for the layout, I was guessing you had two full tiles missing from your layout near the wall. Difficult to tell without some tiles filling out the layout.

Still, major point is that you and Mrs. are happy with what you've got.
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Unread 03-08-2021, 05:30 PM   #41
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Quote:
CX:
I don't see where you would have split a tile, Mike. Maybe you could point that out?
Oh, no I misunderstood I don’t have any split tiles for sure I was thinking you meant ripped being the 12x24 was ripped to 6x24 at pan edge.
My mistake
As far as the missing tiles to right yeah been a long day so, I stopped there.
It will fit one more full tile 12” wide then a 6” against wall.
I just planned on thin setting what’s down then going back and doing rest.
My arms and my brain isn’t ready to try to stretch doing it all in one go.

Thanks
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Unread 03-08-2021, 06:43 PM   #42
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Understand.

No problem with splitting the install into a couple sessions. Just be sure to leave a clean edge where you stop, including cleaning any mortar off the floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-08-2021, 07:02 PM   #43
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Man you guys have been soooo much help.
I can’t say thanks enough.

I also learned from Sal Dablasi to be sure to set my other clips where the next tiles will go beforehand (obvious once floor is clean no thinset or should I say fresh thinset since my Ditra is prefilled). I also like how he mentioned using scraps to just lock into those clips so no movement can occur etc. Then simply pull scraps upon restarting. The guy is so good at tiling.

Another thing I learned tonight after doing some reading the wedges need to be put in towards the previous tile if not it might push tile away. Rather if put in towards prior set tile should pull.

Any other tips tricks or hiccups I should know prior to setting this first batch tomorrow.

Thanks a ton.

Anyone got a old TCNA handbook they want to donate to a rookie. Granted might be missing a few things but, I sure would like to get my hands on one.
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Unread 03-09-2021, 05:36 PM   #44
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Well, I got it almost done today.
One half row to go.
I think it should turn out ok.
One thing is I wish Schluter would give you better ratios on powder to water. It’s amazing how much just a 1/4 of a quart of water can make things thick versus thinner.
My first batch was thicker then my second batch. Thanks though to the leveling system though all is well.

According to Schluter heavy traffic can start 24hrs after setting at 70*https://sccpublic.s3-external-1.amaz...ta%20Sheet.pdf

So, after 24hrs it’s safe to break out the Raimondi spacers?
There is nothing listed on the Raimondi website about how love after thinsetting to when you can break them loose.
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Unread 03-10-2021, 07:40 AM   #45
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I popped mine after 24 hours, Mike, no problem.
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