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Unread 12-18-2020, 08:25 AM   #151
ss3964spd
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I would lay the mud bed, give it a day to dry, install the Kerdi on the floor and give it a day to dry, then install the band and set the floor tile. Install the bottom row of wall tile last.
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Unread 12-18-2020, 08:35 AM   #152
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What Dan said. Except for the day to allow the mortar under the Kerdi to cure for a day before working over it. I would use a knee board if necessary and proceed to work over that floor soon after doing the Kerdi installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-18-2020, 03:38 PM   #153
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Mortar bed is in. It took me wayyyyyy too long. I kept going back to make it better and in doing so kept messing it up. Biggest issue was I kept messing up the screed perimeter when screeding. Bottom line is it slopes to the drain from all directions . There may be some small divits in there - I dunno. Hopefully it is ok.

Ok - so Kerdi it tomorrow, including banding and covering curb with Kerdi membrane, and I can put the floor tile down right away and if I can reach maybe even the bottom of the wall tile after the floor is in? That would be good.

If so am fast enough I might could redguard the floor - maybe even tile..but probably won’t have time for that. I’m slow.

I am using redguard for crack isolation. One coat good enough?


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Unread 12-18-2020, 08:31 PM   #154
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Before I put Kerdi on it, can someone confirm this is ok and if not what to do? Now that I look at it again I’m not sure I have enough mud overlapping the drain holes. Is this a problem?




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Unread 12-18-2020, 08:35 PM   #155
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Greg, there is only one drain hole in a Kerdi Drain and that's the big one in the center. Not sure what other "drain holes" you might be seeing.

Difficult for me to tell in online photos exactly what's going on with mortar beds, but I don't see anything glaringly wrong with yours. The thinset mortar you use to bond your Kerdi will fill some of the small voids you might have in the surface.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-18-2020, 09:04 PM   #156
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Sorry - I meant the schluter logo shaped holes that go around the edge of the drain.



None of the mortar seeped through to the top. Just didn’t know if that was a problem.


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Unread 12-18-2020, 09:11 PM   #157
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In a perfect world your deck mud would be flush with the top of that plastic ring. In the real world, you try to make it so, but you know your Kerdi membrane bonding mortar will fill those voids and life will be good.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-18-2020, 09:35 PM   #158
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Thank you. I can sleep tonight


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Unread 12-22-2020, 08:08 PM   #159
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Greg's New Shower Project

Haven’t been able to catch a break lately with the progress...lol! A few issues but I think we are just going to live with them.

The first is the floor perimeter. While I was careful to check the perimeter of the mud bed was level, it’s not without issues. I used a level to check it, which meant that while the level showed it as level, I must have screeded too roughly in the middle of the wall and dug out some from the edge. The level showed level as the ends of the level were probably at the same height but it definitely dips in the middle. It’s more cosmetic than anything as there is a definite slope to the drain.


The other issue is this:




I am not sure what happened with that one tile sheet. It looked identical to the other tiles up until I grouted. It’s from the same box of tiles as the rest. It’s just so weird.


Again, it’s cosmetic and I don’t think I am inclined to rip out the entire floor - but anyone have any ideas as to why the color difference?

Thanks,


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Unread 12-22-2020, 09:39 PM   #160
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From whom did you purchase the tile, Greg?
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Unread 12-22-2020, 10:16 PM   #161
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Quote:
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From whom did you purchase the tile, Greg?

Lowe’s.




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Unread 12-22-2020, 11:09 PM   #162
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I'm thinking that from one of those home centers it may be a returned box or a combination of a couple of returned partial boxes that got mixed together. Certainly look like they're from different dye lots.
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Unread 12-23-2020, 07:18 AM   #163
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Greg's New Shower Project

I think you are right - but those sheets don’t have any stamps on them for dye lots. But obviously has to be - can’t think of another reason.

I will probably leave it alone. I don’t like it but at the end of the day it’s probably not going to be seen unless you are in the shower based on where it is in the shower. But just so I make an informed decision.

1. If I decided to replace the sheet itself, is that even possible now that it is grouted and has been down for a few days. I would assume it would rip the Kerdi below.


2.if I tore up the floor could I leave the drain alone and rip out around it and just use thinset to bind the new bed to the old?

3. I’d have to remove the bottom row of tile I’m sure. What about the top of the curb? Would that have to come out?

Like I said, I’m probably leaving it alone at this point but just was wondering what would be involved.

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Unread 12-23-2020, 07:37 AM   #164
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It does look like the bottom row would have to come out Greg. And since the floor tile is set on Kerdi, the Kerdi is likely to be damaged when the tile is removed. Removing the Kerdi from the drain flange might compromise the flange itself, possibly making it difficult to bond new Kerdi to it.
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Unread 12-23-2020, 08:19 PM   #165
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Here is what might work: Use a very small circular saw like the Dremel Saw max with a diamond blade. Set it to a very shallow height (thickness of tile) and then start criss- crossing across all the offending tiles. This will make it easier to break those out. Having small bits of tile increases your chance of removing them without removing large chunks of the thinset mortar. You could then reset the new tile with an epoxy stone adhesive. If too thick you can carefully grind away at the mortar or even at the new tile’s back. It would be an ungodly amount of work but it could be done. It all depends on if you can find a color matched new sheet of this tile.
I have done the above and it worked. However, I only had to replace two 2x2 tiles on a shower floor that had not been grouted yet.
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