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Unread 12-02-2020, 05:36 PM   #121
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1, 2. I prefer rips of half-inch plywood for ledger boards, Greg. Stay straighter than sawn boards as a rule and if you make them 4 or 5 inches wide you can keep your fasteners low enough to put a patch over the holes and easily have your 2" overlap. Some folks just fill the hole with Kerdi Fix, but I prefer the patch. I cut rounds from 5" KerdiBand for my patches.

If you have nice, straight 1x4s you can effectively do the same thing. I sometimes use one of my "custom" 1x4 screed boards, but they're usually run through the jointer between jobs to keep them straight.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-02-2020, 06:44 PM   #122
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Ok - I’ll head out to get some plywood. Would mdf work? It’s usually very straight.

Also / the diverter valve is smaller than the mixing valve. A valve seal won’t fit - it’s too big. Should I enlarge the hole around this or is there a better way? This is under the shower head. I believe the trim has a gasket. What is the best way to seal this?


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Unread 12-03-2020, 08:57 PM   #123
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Well I think I got everything figured out with layout. I hope it works out. I measured 2” up from the slab and started measuring from there. I decided not to try to line up the grout line to the bottom of the niche because when I did that it seemed to leave me a 2” cut on the top of the niche out of - tiles are close to 8 inches wide. Instead I am going to try to make it little more symmetrical have even cuts on both sides. I haven’t cut out the Kerdi board and put the niches in yet so if some one thinks that is a wrong move please tell me. Lol!

The curb is in. I may have tilted it a bit too much in but it’s not bad. Next time I do anything like that I am buying the Ramshot thing and nailing it in. I did not like tapcons for that purpose

As for the diverter valve sealing I think I am going to just caulk around the escutcheon plate and hope that seals it - or maybe run a bead of Kerdi fix around the hole itself to divert any water around it. Not sure yet.

Please check my plan to make sure it is sound. Next steps:


1. Cut out Kerdi board and put in niches

2. Put up better bench - mix a quarter to about half a bag of 4-1 mix to fill it with mud. Let that dry.

3. Mud and band all seams, holes


4. Go to HD and buy plywood to rip strips for ledger boards (or see if they have something 4” wide that would work). Sometimes that mdf or melamine board is very straight. Can’t imagine it is more expensive than plywood. Any reason not to use that?

5. Screw the ledger board so the top is 10” above the slab. If the mud bed is 2”, that leaves 8” for the tile and 1 grout line. The tile is 7 7/8” wide. That doesn’t leave me enough room for two grout joints so I’ll be cutting the tile but I am paranoid about messing up and leaving too much space between the floor and tile.

Am I being foolish about that? Should I start the second row at 8 1/8? This would allow for a grout joint between the 1st and second row and a 1/8” space between mortar bed and bottom row - assuming I get my mud bed to the right height. Truth is, if I am off by an 1/8” the floor tile should cover it, right?

6. After the ledger boards are up I will start tiling. Do I have to be concerned about how much weight the ledger boards hold or can I tile a lot on them? I assume if I screw them into studs it would be fine to tile as much as I can, right? I’m slow so it probably won’t matter.

6. Since I am using versabond, I know it will take longer for the thinset to dry with kerdi. Do I need to wait to remove the ledger boards longer than 1 day?

Thanks a bunch!


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Unread 12-03-2020, 09:10 PM   #124
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2. If you didn't slope the bench, slope the mud.

4. You can use any of those things you prefer. I use rips of plywood because I always have some in the shop and it's easy for me to make the right widths and lengths and I know they're straight and will remain that way.

5. I set my ledger so that I know I will hafta cut something off the bottom of each tile.

6. Unlikely you'll tile fast enough for that to be a problem and if you've done a good job on the ledgers it shouldn't matter anyway. If in doubt, tile one row and come back tomorrow and tile the rest of the walls.

6.2. It won't. You can remove the ledger boards the next day if you need to.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-04-2020, 08:15 AM   #125
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Haven’t put the bench in yet. I realized I should band the seams - especially the corner - before it went it so I will put it in after I do that.

I realized - after it was done - I probably could have treated the curb like the floor and could have waited until I finished tiling the walls to put that in as well. Oh well - it will still be nicer not worrying about messing up the floor.

Ok - so I’m not crazy about making sure that ledger board sits so I hafta cut the bottom row. I assume you do that to ensure there are no space issues? About how much do you sim to cut off when measuring it out?

Thanks!


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Unread 12-04-2020, 09:36 AM   #126
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Depends upon the tile size, Greg, but for larger tiles I'll usually try to allow for about half an inch.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 02:21 PM   #127
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Hi all,

Seamed today and put in the bench. I still need to put the mud in the bench. I screwed it in and then I unscrewed it, put Kerdi fix in the holes, then ran a small bead of it across the walls above the holes and put the bench back up. Good enough?

I will put mud in it tonight - gotta run for now. If I do, is it ok to tile tomorrow? I’d hate to start tiling snd leave it out as it will be in the 2nd row I put up. (Third row from the floor.)






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Unread 12-05-2020, 03:00 PM   #128
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Greg, you gunna cover the bench mud with Kerdi, and Kerdi band it to the walls?
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Unread 12-05-2020, 04:57 PM   #129
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Greg's New Shower Project

I wasn’t planning on it. Do I have to? The instructions for the bench just say to just waterproof the screw holes. I didn’t think the rest had to be waterproofed.

I don’t have a big enough piece of Kerdi but I can layer Kerdi band over it if it helps. Do I need to get corners as well?


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Unread 12-05-2020, 05:48 PM   #130
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It is not necessary to waterproof that Better Bench, Greg, but I always cover mine with the waterproofing membrane as a matter of course. I don't bother with trying to waterproof the fastener penetrations.

You may find some short stalactites growing down from the bottom of your bench after a few years if you have hard water as we do from the wells in my area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 06:26 PM   #131
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I just checked and I have a strip of membrane leftover from my friend’s project. It isn’t wide enough to cover the whole thing with one piece but I could cover the top with two pieces and then use Kerdi band where it meets the wall and in front. I could run another small bead of Kerdi fix in the corner since I don’t have any extra corners.




I installed one on my first shower project in 2015. Did a traditional shower pan - the better bench is great on that one still.

If I cover it, can I use the thinset I am going to tile with or or do I have to mix a “looser” batch for that little section?


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Unread 12-06-2020, 08:12 AM   #132
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Like you, I installed mine against foam board. You can't really "tighten" the mounting screws because the foam compresses so the frame has some wiggle in it, at least mine did. Because of the movement I didn't trust simply filling the holes and caulking the joint between the bench frame and wall. Once filled with mud and covered with membrane and banded to the walls they were really, really solid.

Looking at yours, though, you have a couple of patches, therefore build up, right where the band would go, thus creating even more build up and you'd have to compensate for that build up with setting tile.
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Unread 12-06-2020, 08:19 AM   #133
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So I mudded the bench last night. Needed more mud than I originally thought so I made two batches. First batch was great. Second batch I made was way too wet but I got it in there. Any reason I can’t Kerdi over it today? It’s been about 13 hours.

I have just enough Kerdi membrane to cover the bench in two pieces. I have enough Kerdi band for the wall connection. I can run to Lowe’s and grab a pack of inside corners as well.


That Kerdi isn’t installed - I just layed it down there. I will run a band of Kerdi band over the front.

Questions:

1. Is it ok to Kerdi over it if it isn’t fully cured?

2. Do I need to mix a small batch of loose thinset to install the kerdi or can I just mix a batch to start tiling and install the Kerdi when I start tiling using regularly mixed thinset?

3. The bench was sloped to the front when I installed it but now it appears to be level after mudding it. I am a little worried about banding the front of that bench and creating a situation where the front is slightly higher due to overlapping. I’ll try to install the tile to slope a bit but I know it should be done at the substrate level. Any thoughts?

Thanks all - off to Lowe’s to get an inside corner.


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Unread 12-06-2020, 09:03 AM   #134
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Given the proximity of that bench to the shower head, Greg, it's going to see a lot of water. A lot. IMO, you really want it sloped.

Ideally, you'd use a single piece of Kerdi to cover the top mud and fold it over to cover the front, thus avoiding the build up. With no slope, and all the over laps, I think it will be a challenge to build in a consistent slope using mortar and tile. You might consider a piece of solid surface material instead of tile.

You can certainly use mortar mixed to tile setting consistency for installing the membrane, just know that doing so will increase the build up just a bit.
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Unread 12-06-2020, 10:47 AM   #135
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I do have a piece of Kerdi board large enough to cover the top. Maybe thinset that on top at a better slope? I’ll check with a smaller level when I get home to make sure - I was using a larger level to check originally.

Other option is to just leave it alone and maybe put another bead of Kerdi fix across the top at the wall for extra protection. I really think the screws are protected as is, but I do like the idea of waterproofing it anyway - especially if it helps the slope. Problem is it may mess up the plan for the front tile.


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