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Unread 01-11-2020, 12:29 PM   #16
cx
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That would be correct for their All-Set mortar, Dan, which meets ANSI A118.11, but Schluter also recommends it for use where they recommend the use of other manufacturers' un-modified mortars.

They get to choose what is "appropriate" in their proprietary recommendations.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-11-2020, 08:05 PM   #17
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So I already installed the modified on the plywood to attach the Ditra. Now is it your recommendation to use Unmodified for the tile to the Ditra or modified again?
Thanks again!
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Unread 01-11-2020, 08:15 PM   #18
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Rick, while there are at least a few modified thinsets that will properly work over Ditra to bond the tile, in general, all you really need is an unmodified. It must be a quality one (some of them are barely much more than sand with a little cement in the mix). What you don't want is a modified that uses latex. All you need is a quality unmodified. Some tile manufacturers call for a modified, and depending on the actual tile, that may be an overstatement, but if you wish, Schluter has one they know will work.

FWIW, thinset doesn't actually bond to Ditra, either on the top or the bottom. On the bottom, it encases the fleece, and sticks to the substrate, but doesn't actually 'stick'. Sort of like hot wax poured on a fabric...it envelopes the fibers and is then a bear to get out. On top, if you look carefully, the pockets are beveled, which, once the thinset cures, prevents it from pulling out, but is not physically bonded to it. It does need to bond to the tile, and, if done properly does when you use a quality thinset, either modified or not. The issue with some thinsets is that they need to dry to work, and that happens VERY slowly (literally can take months), and until that happens, the bond is not stable. Curing is a chemical process...drying is not, so drying requires a path for the moisture to get out and that's hard with many tile and doesn't happen through the Ditra (or Kerdi).
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Unread 01-11-2020, 10:50 PM   #19
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Thank you all so much. A store near me has the All Set by schluter so I’ll probably just use that since it works. Appreciate the input.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 06:25 PM   #20
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Did not want to start a new thread so I’ll ask here, even though it is for the walls and not floor.
I removed the portions of the wall where the old backsplash was and it is three-quarter inch thick, split up between a half inch and quarter inch layers. House is mid 50s.
I bought 1/2” green board and 1/4” cement board to make up the 3/4” thickness. Is it wrong for me to put up 1/2” green board first and then cover that with 1/4” cement board and attach basic subway tile to the 1/4” cement board for a backsplash?
I thought I read somewhere that 1/4” cement board cannot support tile on a wall.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 06:30 PM   #21
jadnashua
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WHere fully backed by another sheet, the 1/4" stuff should be fine. Hardiebacker allows 1/4" stuff on a wall, but nobody else does as the only backer.

THere are some tileable foam panels that could have been used in various thicknesses, that could have done it in one step, though. KerdiBoard, WediBoard, and others are out there. Easier to cut, carry, and install...cost more, but how much is the convenience worth?
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Unread 01-14-2020, 07:20 PM   #22
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When you say hardiebacker allows 1/4” on the wall, do you mean by itself or with another panel behind it?
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Unread 01-14-2020, 07:40 PM   #23
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He means James Hardie permits the use of his 1/4" panels over bare stud walls with stud spacing no greater than 16" on center.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 08:06 PM   #24
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Perfect, that’s what I thought. Thank you all for your help. This is literally the best forum online.
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