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Old 03-21-2018, 07:44 AM   #16
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Or should I float the ceiling out some with some mud?
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:03 AM   #17
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I doubt you can build up 1" of mud on the ceiling.
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:57 AM   #18
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Definitely cannot float that much drywall mud.

Though you could stop short of the ceiling I'd have to wonder if the RedGuard'd CBU will have a smooth enough texture for paint. Perhaps skim coating it with drywall mud would work?

Regardless, given how close to the top you already are, I think you're still going to see it. I think I'd be inclined to tile to the top, paint the ceiling bright white, use a bright white grout, and caulk the tile to ceiling joint with bright white.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:48 PM   #19
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I would do the same if the tile were larger, but being they're only 2" tall, losing 1" from one side to the other is going to stick out like a sore thumb. Even setting some crown at the top will show.

The only thing I can think of is to stop the tile as far from the ceiling as possible, unless the ceiling can be removed and replaced at a level height, and I think that will cause more work on the rest of the bathroom ceiling.
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Old 03-26-2018, 09:52 AM   #20
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While I am waiting for more wall tile to be delivered I moved onto the floor. I will be installing suntouch floor mats but I am trying to get a layout before installing those.

The floor is a just a bit out of square. I found the center and started in the center of the 12x12 mosaic and worked my way to the tub. I should cut the vertical tiles up against the tub correct?

Should I starting the center of the room and work my way towards the tub or start from tub? Thanks
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:26 AM   #21
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While centering is usually a good thing, it isn't always the only way. Try different starting points to minimize cuts and amount of material used. If you're wanting to start at the tub like you have it, then yes I would cut those flush so you have a good starting point.
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Old 03-26-2018, 07:13 PM   #22
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Like Ryan, I would look at all the walls and doorways and see what works best. I surely wouldn't want a line of small cuts against carpet.

In your last pic, I can't tell if the tiles are up against a wall or if that's the tub. But, if you're going to start against that surface, I would cut 3/8 to 1/2 off those sheets(whatever it takes) and slide it closer. That little bit is easier to cut off rather than fill the voids with small pieces. The whole layout would slide closer. With that pattern, centering won't really be that noticeable. Hope that's clear.
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:51 PM   #23
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Thanks, I got it all dry fitted. I will be installing suntouch radiant mats.

Should I be embedding the mats in a self leveling compound and then tile over that or should I try to thinset and tile directly over the mats in one step?

It just seems like the mats do not want to lay flat and tiling directly over may be tough...
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:00 AM   #24
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I was going to mention that, Chris. When you see the videos of installing over heat wires, they are installing large tiles, 12 inch or larger. I've never seen a video of how to install mosaics directly over the wires. And, even the large tiles can be a challenge at times. That's the main reason I stopped using the systems that have the roll out mat. Maybe they have changed things up to make it easier, I can't say but I changed over to Ditra Heat because the cables snap into place and are down even with the top of the mats. I end up with a flatter surface for tiles. Even with the Ditra Heat mats, you may have to flatten the surface when mosaics are used, but not as much.

So, to answer your question, I would say yes, you will need to embed the wires into some sort of cement. I can't see you tiling right over them with mosaics. I would probably call Sun Touch and get their advice. Maybe they have something I haven't come across. Let us know what they say. Or maybe someone here has an easy way to install mosaics over Sun Touch wires.

Back when I installed Sun Touch systems, I would lay out the mat and glue it to the floor using many small dots from a hot glue gun. That was the only way to get the wires down as low as possible. Then I would float over it with mud, thinset, floor filler or SLC. Depending on what you use, a primer might be needed first.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:11 PM   #25
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What floor tiles are those, if you don't mind?
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:04 PM   #26
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I ended up embedding the suntouch mats in level quick. It worked out pretty well.

Next question is how should end the tile where it meets the dry wall? Should I run the tiles vertically?

The floor tile is festivel basketweave from floor and decor.
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:21 PM   #27
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Do they make bullnose in that tile? Perhaps a profile?
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Old 04-05-2018, 12:48 PM   #28
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I have looked for a bull nose tile but can't find one from that manufacturer....
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:14 PM   #29
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I ended up using a profile strip for the edge where it meets the drywall.

I am now working on the backsplash above the vanity.When i extend the subway tiles to the vanity there is a small gap. Should i just caulk the gap?

Also for the top edge of the backsplash should i use the same profile strip I used on the wall? Thanks
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:27 PM   #30
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I suppose you could, but I think I'd look to raising the vanity or the top a quarter-inch. Look more like you planned ahead, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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