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Unread 08-15-2019, 12:29 PM   #1
speed51133
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Can I get a sanity check for a price quote?

I am helping my parents remodel their 10ft x 12ft floor with 8ft ceiling master bath.

I am demo-ing out everything down to studs and plywood. I am also locating all the plumbing drains/supplies to the proper location. I am installing all shower valves/trim. I will install the toilet, the vanity, the counter/sink, the mirror, all lighting, and the freestanding tub/tub spout.

The bathroom currently has marble on all flooring and ALL walls. There is one bay window where the sill is tiled.

I am having a tile installer set all floor tile and all wall tile. This includes installing substrate (drywall) on the walls and a decoupling membrane on the floor. The installer will also construct the shower. The shower is made from a 4ftx4ft tray and a 16in x 4ft foam bench (all USG).

This is located in a Milwaukee suburb of a mix of multi-million dollar homes and $400,000 MAJOR fixer-uppers from the 60's and all that is inbetween. I would appreciate your professional opinions if it is fair. I think it all looks OK except for the drywall, but I have never priced out shimming/flattening out studs in addition to drywall hanging.

The tile is 2ftx4ft. I am supplying ALL fixtures and the tiles. Shower floor is 2x2 hex. All porcelain. All other materials (mortar, membranes, foam boards, grout, caulk) is supplied by tile contractor.

Two-Wall Corner Shower
Install Approx 75sf of Tile substrate and Tile. Price Includes USG Board, Presloaped Shower Pan, Drain, Mortar and Grout.
$2,950 (Save $350 if 12x24 tile is used.)

Tile Floor 50-75sf
Install Tile and Tile substrate. Price Includes Uncoupling Membrane, mortar and grout.
$1,450.00

Install Wall Tile
Install tile on wall surface. Tile all walls to the ceiling. Cut around windows, doors, closet, and hydronic heating. Price includes premium mortar based thinset and grout.
$6,450 (Save $550 if 12x24 tile is used.)

Drywall
Drywall labor and materials.
Plane and shim walls for square flat walls. Install drywall on all previously tiled walls. Patch ceiling where toilet partial wall was removed. Blend texture.
$2,800.00

Full Bench
Install Tile on pre-made foam full bench (includes bench).
$700.00

Total $14,350.00
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Unread 08-15-2019, 01:27 PM   #2
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It doesn't look unreasonable to me. All wall tiled ? Outside of shower. Is that roughly 10*8 for 2 walls and 12*8 for two walls minus shower?
I can see how 2×4' tile would cost more.
It took me 4 hours to square and shim my walls in a 4x5 shower. It is worth the time.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 01:58 PM   #3
speed51133
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all walls are tiled with the 2ftx4ft tile. in the shower, out of the shower the same.

your calcs are about correct, minus the door to get in/out of the bathroom and a bay window. the window has about 10in on each side of it to tile and about 1 foot above and 1ft below it. Plus the window sill which is about a foot.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 02:32 PM   #4
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Mike 2'x4' tile is quite a beast to work with. This will also require exceptionally flat floors and walls to come out looking right. The prices seem quite reasonable to me as well for a good tile pro.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 06:27 PM   #5
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I would charge extra for a door and a bay window especially with big tile. In fact not very many doors have ever been installed Square enough for 2 x 4 tile. I'm thinking a 2x4 would weigh about 30#. I felt like a kid in a China store with one by twos I would sure want the saw in the Next Room no matter what I had to do to protect the area
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Unread 08-15-2019, 10:55 PM   #6
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The 2x4 porcelain tiles I set weighed right at 47 pounds, if my memory serves correctly.

They require plenty of work space, and a large flat surface to lay them face down so you can get mortar on the back of every tile.
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Unread 08-16-2019, 10:05 PM   #7
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Currently doing a job with ‘em. Take your typical time frame and double it, that gets you close to being right on. For example, after all my prep work of getting everything level and flat, I spent one and a half days handling, laying out and cutting out the floor before setting anything in the afternoon. Unless each tile is the same then these jobs take time getting the pattern to flow and ensuring everything is right. I think the price is fair so long as the project delivery is turnkey every step of the way.
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Unread 08-26-2019, 10:10 AM   #8
speed51133
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CaliGrown, is that SLC you put down first? Looks very nice!!

Just an update for the 10x12 bathroom (8ft ceiling). Pics of the bathroom prior to demo attached.

There will be one toilet (elongated), one corner shower (15in x 48in bench with a 48in x48in pan), one free standing tub (60in Kohler Stargaze with deck mounted fixtures), and one 48in wall mounted vanity with single sink).

My mom was very concerned with splashing from the tub, so she wanted the ENTIRE floor and walls tiled with 4ftx2ft tile. How normal is this?? Do people typically tile the wall by a free standing bath? Do they tile just a section of the wall? How are water splashes mitigated? Just use a high gloss paint?

I am trying to talk her out of tiling the entire walls since it seems like such a big cost.I just finished the demolition, the entire room was tiled with real emerald green marble. It was pretty, but there was no waterproofing. The plywood by the shower has damage. The shower did use CBU, and man was it sturdy. It was built in 1990. It took many hits with the sledge to break it up. WAY stronger than modern CBU. The rest of the walls were green drywall, and the tiles practically fell off them whole when I would hit it. The thinset stuck to the tile, but not the drywall.

I felt bad demoing it all, but the stupid tub took up like half the bathroom and the shower was COMICALLY small. It was 3ft x 3ft neo angle. My parents are too old to get in and out of the tub, and you literally cannot bend over in the shower. Such a waste of material....
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Unread 08-26-2019, 11:59 AM   #9
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to think that was a high end bathroom at one time.... but that dark green is to dark. IS grandma going to go wild in the bathtub? I cant imagine so much splashing... but also smaller tiles could be mixed with larger ones with the same water resistance. IF is was hard to get into the old tub how will a free standing be easier? or just for resale? Once consideration is to make the shower real big and ADA wheel chair compliant. Do plan on adding blocking for the ADA handrail locations in the shower no matter what you do.
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Unread 08-26-2019, 12:05 PM   #10
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NOBODY will be using the tub. My mom is simply convinced you cannot sell a home without a tub in the master bath. I totally disagree, but it isn't my home.

In fact, when I am shopping for high end homes for myself, first thing I think when I see a huge tub in the master bath, "ugh, such a pain to haul that thing out of there".

I am adding in an ADA rail by the toilet, to make up for that "knee wall" thing that is no longer there. I had to wedge my face under the toilet because it is so close to that stupid wall to service the shut off valve. So gross....
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Unread 08-26-2019, 12:18 PM   #11
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It seems to be a debate now between designers and realtors. I have a master bath remodel next on tap and the old moss growing jetted tub must go. IT is a must for one tub in the house for sure. one guy at the tile store told me his mom wants the door walk in tub gone and just a nice shower. I guess it is cold sitting in those things waiting for the water to fill up and then you must wait for it to drain to get out. I was thinking of expanding my shower but a big window is not going to let me much and converting the old tub area to a beauty make up table area? I will be creating a new post soon.
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Unread 09-01-2019, 04:38 PM   #12
speed51133
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So I am repairing holes in the subfloor for this bathroom remodel. The large tub had about a 12x12 hole for the water lines and drain. For some reason there were also two other similar cutouts in the floor under the tub decking.

The floor is build of 2x12 joists 12in on center. A 12 for Alan. There are pine 1x6 planks (nominal) with a layer of thick tar paper then 5/8in plywood. Nothing is glued. Just nails and screws.

I added blocking for the holes. Do I replace the same floor construction or do I skip the plans and just use similar thicknesses of plywood? Do I use tar paper?

Thanks for any tips.
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Unread 09-01-2019, 07:37 PM   #13
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Is there a free-standing tub going back in this space, Mike? And you're setting porcelain tile there?

If both answers are 'yes', then you can go back with similar thickness plywood on both layers.

However, it's generally recommended that any repairs cover a minimum of two joist bays. If you have blocking on all four sides of the opening, you can get by with an opening spanning a single bay, especially with 12" centers.
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Unread 09-01-2019, 08:16 PM   #14
speed51133
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As you guessed, both answers yes.

I also blocked on all 4 sides of the openings.

If there any need for the tar paper? I was going to just glue and screw the plywood layers.
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Unread 09-01-2019, 08:28 PM   #15
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"Tar paper" where, Mike?
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