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Unread 10-22-2020, 07:40 AM   #16
dkalemba
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I have a similar situation with a Schulter shower stall. I did not extend the edge of the Kerdi Board sufficiently beyond the curb and have the situation in the image. I will be installing 12x24 tile vertically with 3" bullnose edge at this edge. How much of the sheetrock should I remove and replace with Kerdi.... and do I still need the full 2" overlap of band here? I assume I will be using slighly less thinset on the bullnose to account for the thickness of the Kerdi band. Thanks.... Dave
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Unread 10-22-2020, 08:56 AM   #17
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Dave, you would need to make appropriate spacers to use above your ledger board to simulate the tile placement you'll end up with in your layout. Just some rips of plywood or boards or any similar material strong enough to support the first tile above the ledger until that first tile is set sufficiently to support itself and the tiles above.

I've moved your post from the other member's unrelated thread to prevent confusion in both places.

You could grind off the texture on that drywall and cover a couple inches of it and your KerdiBoard with KerdiBand to cover that joint and waterproof the "tub leg" properly. No, you won't have the required 2" overlap on the narrow portion in front of the curb, but you can lap onto the curb a bit there, too. Whatever you get is gonna be better than not having waterproofing in that area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-22-2020, 09:25 PM   #18
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Thanks for the reply John..... that is brilliant. Yes, the concept of a spacer and not a ledger did not even cross my mind. Than you so much. So, regarding grinding down the texture to the paper, and then setting the Kerdi band as normal is the way to go. I have a little differentation between those surfaces, but I can work with that when tiling. Thanks for moving my post. Thanks for all you do.....
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Unread 11-02-2020, 09:09 AM   #19
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Trowel Size: Hi All, seeking the pros' help on selecting trowel size/configuration for all elements of shower. 12"x24" vertical installation on walls, 4" tall horizontal mosaic detail and back of niche, inside of niche, and 2"x2" floor. I hear use 1/2" square notch (which suggests 1/4" total thinset thickness), but I also hear backbutter (which suggests 1/2" thick thinset). That's a big difference, so should I use a smaller notch when backbuttering? Should I use a smaller notch for the inside of the niche? From other posts, I am thinking about 3/8" notch on floor. Also, Eurotrowels are a thing, but I hear the pros sticking with square notch. I am taking the extra step of mitering the corners, so this info will help determine miter cuts. Thanks for all replies.... Dave
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Unread 11-02-2020, 09:18 AM   #20
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Dave, the object of the game is to end up with a minimum of 95 percent coverage on the back of each tile with a mortar thickness of a minimum of 3/32nds of an inch. How you get there is entirely up to you.

If your substrate is sufficiently flat and your tiles are sufficiently flat, you shouldn't need that very large 1/2" square notched trowel, but that seems to be what folks are using for those large format tiles. It is not necessary to "back butter" the tiles, but it is necessary to key-in mortar to the backs of the tiles before setting them into the notched mortar on the substrate. You don't want any notch at all for the trowel to key-in mortar to the back of the tile, you use the flat side of whatever trowel you're using to notch the walls.

You'll need to try setting a couple of your tiles using your mortar and your trowel and your technique and pulling them back off to determine what it will take for you to get the coverage you need with the least squeeze-out into the grout joints. The coverage is required; the minimal squeeze-out is desired.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-03-2020, 07:24 PM   #21
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Thanks once again John.... yes, after further review I will be purchasing a few trowels and starting with the smallest and checking for coverage as suggested - moving to larger notch size as needed. My surfaces are very plumb/level as I spent a great deal of time on truing framing before moving on to Schulter. The variances are primarily the overlapping Kerdi Band, but I have no more than double overlap.
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Unread 04-22-2021, 09:52 PM   #22
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Long time since my last post on this project, but here is the final project awaiting only grout. Please comment and provide recommendations if my plan has any flaws. I'm thinking about going with Laticrete SPECTRALOCK PRO Premium Grout on the floor as I am seeking that durability and maintenance of an epoxy grout, but on the walls I'm thinking about SPECTRALOCK 1 to make the project just a bit easier. I want to do the walls 1st, but it may take a few days (working evenings after my regular job), so I am a bit concerned about cold joints on the walls. Manufacturer rep says no problem, but this forum is where real advise is to be had. The floor I will do in one sitting. I also like John's view on caulking corners -- by having none. The only place I intend to caulk is where the ceiling meets tile.

Thanks for your views.

Yes, those are mitered corners with porcelain tile. That was an exercise in patience, but the look is awesome. When the project is complete, I will post a lengthy summary of this job to include tips and tricks (from a DIYer).
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Unread 04-23-2021, 07:14 AM   #23
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While this site is an incredible resource, Dave, I'd lean towards following the manufacturers instructions.

I can tell you from experience, however, that Spectralock Pro Premium has no problem adhering to itself. I used it throughout my entire master bath, stopping and restarting multiple times.

Where I didn't use it was at change of planes.
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