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Unread 10-18-2020, 04:40 PM   #61
Davy
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I wouldn't use a chipping hammer since you want to save the pan. It would be very easy for the bit to go too deep and poke the hot mop. Usually, once you get a place started, it will come up in chunks clean off of the pan liner. But, I haven't removed a mud bed off of hot mop since 1979 so I can't remember how well the mud wanted to bond to it.

I would beat on it with a hammer and slowly break it up hitting it lighter and being more careful the deeper I go.
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Unread 10-19-2020, 09:20 AM   #62
californiahomeowner
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Thanks Davy.

I am in discussion with the GC about possibly separating.

Revisiting Davy's comment about a rub brick, does it require a lot of manual labor to rub brick mortar? For example to take 1/2" off along the back perimeter so that the perimeter is flat and level for the tile?
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Unread 11-04-2020, 11:37 PM   #63
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Hello my GC is hiring a new tile guy starting next week. We shall see how this turns out.

I realized that my shampoo niches are not square dimensionally. For example on this niche one side measures 4.75" and the other 5.25". You can see how the niche floor is wider on one side. The prior tile guy hack made the niches and seems like he just eyeballed the hardiebacker board dimensions rather than using exact measurements. Is this the normal way to do it? Can this be corrected with extra thinset when the tile is placed or should I demand the new guy to redo the niches?

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Unread 11-05-2020, 06:53 PM   #64
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Sometimes I'll do some minor leveling and squaring up with thinset but usually when it's 1/8 or less. I'd rip it out and start over. Your new tile guy may have other plans.
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