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Unread 09-30-2020, 05:52 PM   #31
Stuart
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Hi ,

Back again...in addition to my low spots, I did not do a good job at the corners where my kerdi band over laps each other. In some spots, there are a few signifcant bumps where I put too much thinset.

What are my options to reduce the high spots?

Can it be sanded?

I understand now why it would have been best to tile right away...but that is "water under the bridge now"

Thank you
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Unread 10-01-2020, 06:52 AM   #32
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If the high spots are due to excessive mortar under the Kerdi there's nothing you can do about them. If the excessive mortar is on top of the Kerdi you might be able to remove some of it with a rub stone, available at your local BBS.
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Unread 10-01-2020, 11:33 AM   #33
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Unfortunatley, I think my best option is too remove it replace. My lumps and dips are too large to make up with thinset.
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Unread 10-01-2020, 12:21 PM   #34
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Kerdi achieves its watertite bond on a seam by having the fleece from the two layers in near intimate contact...excess thinset is a problem. The body of the sheet is waterproof, but to get it waterproof at a seam takes a bit of care. In creases like at the bottom of a wall or between them, it usually works best to have two tools, one to hold the material in place in the seam, and the other to embed the material into the mortar. Trying to do it with one is really tough in a corner or change of plane. You need to ensure you swipe the tool, a trowel's flat side or a taping knife, across the whole seam and towards the opening so that excess thinset (and there will be some) is squeegeed out.

The mortar doesn't technically stick to Kerdi, it must get embedded in the fleece, and then, when it cures, it locks it in place. So, trying to remove it after the mortar cures usually renders it unusable since it will tear the fleece off.
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Unread 10-01-2020, 01:47 PM   #35
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Yes my technique was not the best. I did do what you explained for the corners and other areas, but obviosly did not remove/sqeeze out enough thinset. I now understand why some people tile right away...

Before I begin the removal, do you agree it's best to take that approach? Remove ditra with my underlayment and redo. I would have significant areas of high and low spots.

Nowing seeing the challenges in using this system, I probably will not use it the second time. The tradtional method of using hardiboard.

Thank you
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Unread 10-01-2020, 06:00 PM   #36
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The use of any new material to you poses an initial learning curve. First, there's the needed understanding of why the instructions say something, and then, there's the actual skill to execute it. Many people get it right the first time, but it's not 100%. It gets much easier as you progress, even through the same project. Embedding the membrane give you experience. Note, you can install the Kerdiband first, then put the membrane over it. As long as you have at least a 2" overlap, it will be a waterproof connection. Some people find that easier than trying to put it on after the sheets are installed.
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Unread 10-02-2020, 05:47 AM   #37
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Tile quality

Hi,

Changing the topic from all my others posts and I can't seem to find any info in the search bar.

I'm interested in learning if there are differences in tile quality (I'm sure there is) for those bought from stores like Floor/Decor and other tile stores. How do you tell the differences and what do the differences make during installation or use once installed.

Thank you,
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Unread 10-02-2020, 08:24 AM   #38
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Stuart, the only thing you can consistently rely upon to tell you the details of a ceramic tile is the manufacturer's claim that they meet the standards of ANSI A137.1. If the tile meets those requirements, there is a lot you can tell about the tile; if not, you can only tell it's a tile of some sort.

The two grades of ceramic tile the industry recognizes are Standard Grade and Second Grade. You'll not likely see anything at your local tile store, nor at your local home center, indicating that it is Second Grade tile because most manufacturers (all?) claim they never let anything other than Standard Grade to leave their facility. Anything with flaws or blemishes is put back in the pile of raw materials.

So look for that designation saying the tile meets or exceeds A137.1 on the package. If so, you can determine a great deal about the tile by reading that standard. If not, you can tell only what the manufacturer or seller advertises.

Some of the difference in properties of the tiles that are Standard Grade and comply with A137.1 are purely aesthetic and the tests non-destructive, other characteristics are more structural in nature and some are destructive tests. But all the results are reported and either fit or do not fit into the Property specifications of particular classification of tile according to the parameters of the standard. Even those that comply with the standards can present some level of difficulty in installing, but at least you know what you'll be dealing with when you purchase the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-02-2020, 01:08 PM   #39
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Angry

So others can learn from my mistakes..here are x-sections of my removed ditra with kerdi bandi. It was way too thick at the seams where the kerdi band was. My guess is..when I was smoothing the ditra out with the float at the seams, my seams were too tight to allow excess thinset to squeeze out and thus it built up there. The application of the kerdi band with more thinset made it worse. My low spots in the ditra were caused by my knee and foot.

Hmm.if I was grading my self, maybe a D...no F because of effort.
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Unread 10-02-2020, 01:42 PM   #40
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What size notched trowel did you use? It sort of looks like you used a larger one than recommended.

If you're doing a larger area, a lawn roller or one made for Ditra might be faster and more reliable to embed the material. If you're needing to kneel on the raw install, it can help to use a piece of plywood on top to spread the load out some.
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Unread 10-03-2020, 03:39 AM   #41
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Hi,

I used a 3/16 x 1/4 in. v notch trowel. That is one of the sizes in the Ditra handbook. I think it also had to do with my trowel technique. This was my very first use of spreading and combing thinset with a trowel. I hate to say it, but I'm one of those "more is better" folks.

I need to learn more about spreading and combing thinset. Sometimes when I combed it, I could still the surface that the notches left and thought more was needed. Not sure if that is correct or not.

Thank you
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Unread 10-03-2020, 07:08 AM   #42
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Combing out thinset mortar does take some practice, Stewart. Certainly did, and will again, for me.

Yes, when you spread mortar with a notched trowel you will, and should, see the surface you are combing it onto at the bottom of the notches, where the teeth have raked the mortar from the surface. You also want to try to comb all your mortar in one direction
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Unread 10-17-2020, 05:41 PM   #43
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Hi,

I have my floor ready for tiling and have a few questions since this is my first job. Please see attached photos. I also plan to have a 6 x 24 marble thresold at the entrance way.

1. Are 12 x 12 tiles considered large format? It does not seem like it from the literature, but wanted to check. i.e Can they be offset by 1/2, vs <1/3? If I can do that, it will allow me to have a 1/2 tile at the tub and entrance way with my plan pattern.

2. What is the correct thinset for Hardiboard? Is MapeiPolymer-Enriched Thin-Set Mortar good to use? Any other suggestions?

3. Is a 1/8" gap from tub and 1/4 " from wall correct?

4. I plan to start tiling from the tub and work my way out toward the door. Is that ok?

5. Should I make all my cuts before starting, or do you wait in case you have some slight variations once you start setting tiles.

Thank you
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Unread 10-17-2020, 07:15 PM   #44
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1. The ceramic tile industry considers any tile with any side longer than 15 inches to be "large format."

If your tiles are sufficiently flat, you can use a 50 percent offset without lippage problems. If you have 4"x4" tiles that are badly cupped, you'll have lippage problems with such an offset. You'll need to determine whether your tiles are suitable.

2. If you'll read the Hardiebacker installation instructions you'll find that they require a modified thinset mortar meeting ANSI A118.4. If your chosen thinset mortar meets that standard, it's the right mortar.

3. Possibly, but for what?

4. Once you have calculated your layout and marked it on your floor, you can start setting the tiles anywhere in the layout. Usually best to start somewhere that allows you to work your way out of the room.

5. There are certainly times when you can do that, but I generally do not. If your layout lines are accurate and your cuts will be under a baseboard, it's generally safe to make your cuts before you start setting, but otherwise I'd recommend you cuts as you go. 'Specially if you have a helper to do your cutting.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-17-2020, 07:22 PM   #45
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1. Tiles that have 15 inch sides are considered large format. But you can use LFT thinset on 12x12's if you want. If the tiles are fairly flat, you can go with a 50/50 stagger. I'd start the layout at the threshold using full and half tiles and cut in at the tub as needed.

2. That thinset is fine. Versabond from HD is also popular around here.

3. Yes, are you setting the base board on top of the tiles?

4. Sure, that's how I would do it.

5. Either way. I like making my cuts before installing. Popping a few chalk lines will help keep the tiles straight.

What Cx said, I'm a slow poke tonight.
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