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Unread 10-17-2020, 11:06 AM   #31
cbaum
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Quick question. My subfloor appears to be OBS and I will be removing 7/8” concrete underlayment and building the floor back up to accommodate a curbless shower.

Would I benefit in any way by paying extra for tongue and groove plywood when building up? Not sure it would give me any additional benefits but wanted to get opinions. Otherwise I’ll just grab some OBS boards.
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Unread 10-17-2020, 02:27 PM   #32
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If the existing OSB subfloor is T&G then no, the second layer need not be T&G.

I do suggest, however that the 2nd layer be plywood, not OSB. OSB tends to swell more if it becomes wet, and I believe I read that the TCNA recommends plywood over OSB for a subfloor application.

That plywood should have a face grade not less than "C", and be exposure 1/EXP. Exposure 1 means that that the glue used to laminate the plys can tolerate some moisture exposure.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 07:53 AM   #33
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Plywood noted. Thanks!

Well I'm down to the nitty gritty details now. I can't decide what to do for soap/shampoo storage. I believe my options are
-corner shelves (like schluter shelf-e)
-niche
-fully built-out ledge
- floating shelf

If I wanted something like schluter shelves I only have one corner to do it in and I'd probably need 3? Plus they are kinda pricey at $70 each. I'd have $210 into small metal corner shelves?? But they are super easy to install and waterproofing is minimal.

I think I DON'T want a shower niche. My concern is I am not sure I could tile it properly to look good and I just don't love them. Plus the big wall in my shower is an external wall so I think space with insulation would be an issue. Id' have to go on the 34" wall which will have the valve and such on it. Not a ton of room to work with there.

I guess I'm down to a built-out ledge or a floating shelf?

A ledge couldn't go all the way across either wall because it would hit the glass panel on either side. So a corner ledge that is maybe 8x8 that sits maybe 48" high?

Or a floating shelf? Not sure what that would entail.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 05:49 PM   #34
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They do make ceramic corner caddies for shampoo bottles. Some people like them, some don't. We have also used triangle shape pieces of marble or granite
embedded in the shower corner.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 08:29 PM   #35
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Marble shower corner would be cool. I'll look into that thanks!

So now I'm doing flooring calculations and just need an extra set of eyes if someone doesn't mind.

Current bathroom floor is as follows:
3/4" OSB subfloor on top of the joists
7/8" concrete on top of OSB
1/4" thick tile on top of concrete
Total buildup over joists: 1 7/8"
Total build up from OSB: 1 1/8"

I am ripping out the tile and concrete and starting on top of the OSB.

Plan is to recess a Schluter pre formed pan to the joists. Pan is 1 1/8" thick.
Planning on 1/2" thick tile including thinset. Seems like a decent estimate.
So for the pan that total buildup from the joists is: 1 5/8"
Total buildup from the OSB however is only: 7/8"

So I need to build up the rest of the bathroom floor 3/8" assuming again 1/2" bathroom floor tile as most of the 6x12 tile I see is .35 to .39" thick. With thinset puts it around 1/2". Plan to use ditra uncoupling membrane (1/8") which leaves me with 1/4" to build up, give or take the thinset used for the ditra. Can I just use 1/4" plywood to build the rest of that up? Ditra XL is too thick at 5/8" or else I'd use that plus it's darn expensive.

Mind is open to different approaches here.
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Unread 10-23-2020, 12:40 PM   #36
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Your 1/2" (tile + mortar) might be a little thin, Charlie, if the tile for the main floor is 3/8" thick (common) and large format it will require a 3/8" notch trowel if the floor is really flat, or 1/2" notch trowel if it ain't. Either of those are going to leave more than 1/8" of mortar thickness.

To make matters more fun, if your shower floor tile is also 3/8" thick, but much small - say, 2X2, you are going to want to set those with a 1/4X1/4 trowel to keep mortar from filling the grout joints, so you'll end up with less than 1/8" under the smaller tile.

Regarding the pan and recessing the floor under it. A) I'd use 3/4" ply for that. B) using one of those pre-formed pans necessitates are very level floor in order to maintain the pan's slope - especially in the long direction. If you cut out the subfloor for the foot print of the shower, install the needed blocking for the recessed ply and take care to get it all level, if the rest of the floor isn't level you're going to a tough time getting both edges in the same plane from end to end.

Once you demo down to the existing subfloor get a fairly long level and check the floor. Everywhere.

Mine was soooo far outta whack I recessed the entire subfloor, using the cleats and drywall shims to get it all level.
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Unread 10-26-2020, 07:47 AM   #37
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Holy cow that is awesome, recessing the whole floor! I do have a 4ft level so I can check most everything. Is a 6ft level really needed for better results?

What I have in my back pocket is that 3/4" OSB which I can easily rip up and level the floor with new 3/4" plywood and shims if necessary. Little less work than recessing the whole thing.

And unfortunately you seem to have brought up a decent point. There's a lot I won't know until I tear out the walls and floor. I really wanted to have all my materials and everything ordered and sitting in the garage for when I start, but I don't think that's realistic now. I'll just have to see what it looks like. I can have a lot on hand, but will likely need to make a lumber/plywood run.

As far as shower pan tile...I am likely going with the schluter 4" square drain so I'd likely use 4x4 tile but your point still stands. I'm also still trying to figure out if/how I could go with a linear drain but Schluter's linear pans are 2" thick instead of 1 1/8". That would require me to build up the floor 3/8" more than it is currently plus the additional thickness of the larger format tile, so my floor could be more than 1/2" higher than it is now. Not sure if that's kosher or not. There's already a slightly noticeable step up into the bathroom from our bedroom and this would make it higher.
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Unread 10-30-2020, 01:24 PM   #38
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Quick question on subfloor (again). Due to the recessed schluter pan, I think I only need to have 3/4" plywood on top of my joists. The was planning schluter ditra membrane. I'm wondering if that's a solid enough surface.

Would it be more recommended to use 3/4" plywood and then 1/2" backerboard for a more firm, solid substrate? Then tile right on top of the backerboard?
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Unread 10-31-2020, 09:22 AM   #39
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If the pan you plan to use is 1 1/8" and it basically sits on the joists, and the 3/4" plywood also sits on the joists, it appears to me that have a difference of 5/8" ish between the two. Your goal is to make the edge of the pan dead even with the top of the tile substrate on the main floor, assuming both the shower floor and main floor tiles are the same thickness. You can get that 5/8" with 1/2" ply + Ditra (would be my choice) or 1/2" CBU + Ditra.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 03:08 PM   #40
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Ahhh I didn’t calculate properly. Good point. So after some additional calculations I have arrived at the following:

Shower pan
1 1/8” above joist
4x4 tile with mortar is about 5/8”.
Total: 1 3/4”

Floor:
3/4” plywood
1/8” ditra
1/16” mortar for ditra
Using 12x24 porcelain tiles, 3/4” with mortar
Total: darn near 1 3/4”

Current build up from joists is 1 7/8” so I’m really close and drains and trim won’t change much if at all.

Since I am removing a tub, what is the best way to permanently cap 2 copper water lines as well as a 2” pvc drain? Will have to cut them below subfloor and cap.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 05:50 PM   #41
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Quick question and apologies for any hijack. Is all-set over ditra good/recommended for any size floor tile? I have read that for large format tiles like 12x24 and larger, it is recommended to use medium bed mortar. I read that here:

https://www.creeklinehouse.com/every...ng-12x24-tile/

Curious on thoughts.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 06:21 PM   #42
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Charlie, it'll help if you'll ask all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. I've moved your post from the other member's thread to prevent confusion in both places.

If you download the TDS for that mortar I think you'll find it's recommended as a LHT mortar as well as for smaller tiles.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 07:28 PM   #43
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Apologies, it was more of a general question than a specific project question. Kind of “for the good of the group” kinda thing but I get your moving it.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 08:26 PM   #44
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Even general questions work best in the context of your project, Charlie, rather than as a random question on an unrelated project thread. "The group" can find the information here as easily as there, eh? The folks who are most likely to answer your questions are all accustomed to responding to the same questions that they've answered elsewhere and having all the information you were exposed to collected on your project thread helps them better tailor their responses to your questions. We've found it works most efficiently that way.
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Unread 11-05-2020, 02:42 PM   #45
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Quick question on tile layout:

My wet wall is 35.75" wide.

I am using 24x24 large format porcelain tile and a 1/8" grout line. What would a seasoned tile installer do for best look? Have one full tile and one 11" sliver?

Or....cut the first tile so the grout line lines up on center with the shower valve and then the other tile would be a little wider as it went beyond the glass panel by 1" or 2"? From inside the shower the tiles would have the same width.

I would do something similar on the other shower wall which is 55.5" wide.
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