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Unread 10-16-2020, 01:01 PM   #1
Germaintile
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Tiling over a newly painted wall

Dear Forum,

I am tiling my kitchen backsplash in a month or so. I have purchased subway tile with a crackle glaze. I will be using Premium Latex Thinset (mortar). Can I tile over the wall as it is? My new sheetrock wall was primed and painted with one coat of Latex Benjamin Moore Paint--Natura Brand. Do I need to take the paint off of the area to be tiled, in some measure by sanding the wall? I get different opinions about this, and the most reliable thus far, to my layperson's ear, is that I can tile over the painted wall as is, without sanding it first. The wall is sheet rock. We primed it and gave it one coat of paint.

Thank you for your advice.
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Unread 10-16-2020, 01:15 PM   #2
ss3964spd
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Welcome, Mary,

Lightly scuffing the paint with some 100 grit sand paper would be your best bet, but no need to sand through the paint. Just scratch it up a bit. Shouldn't need to spend more than 30 minutes on it.

A good idea, too, is to check to see if your counter top(s) is level first along the back edge, which may dictate how you set the bottom row of tile. In your planning be sure to remember to leave a gap of 1/8" +/- between the counter and bottom row.
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Unread 10-16-2020, 01:22 PM   #3
Germaintile
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Following similar question of painted walls

Dear Forum,

I see that there are other threads that ask this same question.
From what I read, it is ok to tile over the painted wall. But, I am open for
any feedback nonetheless. Thanks
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Unread 10-16-2020, 01:25 PM   #4
Germaintile
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Thanks Dan

Dear Dan,
thank you. I appreciate the tip to leave a 1/8 inch between the countertop and the first row of tiles. Is this for the caulking?

I actually will have a four inch attached backsplash on a laminate countertop.
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Unread 10-16-2020, 01:32 PM   #5
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1/8 inch + or -

Hi Dan,

The 1/8 inch between countertop and first row of tile is to make sure we can
have the grout line and caulk and see the first row clear the countertop, I'm thinking? Thanks
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Unread 10-16-2020, 03:13 PM   #6
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Mary, If I understand correctly, you have the counter top, then an existing 4" backsplash, and then you intend to install your tile above the 4" backsplash?

Same rules apply. You need to first determine if your existing backsplash is level. If it is, then you can proceed to set your first row of tile, on your recently scuffed painted wall, and leave a 1/8" +/- gap, that you will then fill with caulk after grouting the tile. The 1/8" caulked joint is needed to allow for differential movement between the wall and counter top/cabinets/floor.

If the 4" backsplash is not level you'll need to determine by how much. If it's just a little you might be able to absorb the difference within the 1/8" gap. If it's more than, say, 1/16th you may need to trim the bottom row of tile in order to ensure the horizontal grout lines are level.

Do you have a photo of your tile? If so use the little paper clip icon above this dialog box to attach a photo from your computer.
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Unread 10-16-2020, 06:52 PM   #7
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What mortar for Tile?

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Thank you Dan. This is my tile. It is a crackle tile.
I will use a grout color from Custom Building Products.

I was advised by the Tile maker to use a Premium Latex Thinset Mortar.
I will also seal the crackle tile before laying them on the wall. Then, again,
after the tiling. I was told to wipe off the sealant after it sits for a bit with a cloth.


But, I still don't yet know which sealant or mortar to purchase.

I will call Cutom to ask their advice. Since I hope to get the grout from them Does this type of mortar/thinset
sound right to you?

I follow your advice about the 1/8 inch between countertop and first row of tile.
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Unread 10-17-2020, 06:50 AM   #8
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Since the tile manufacturer is specifying a modified thinset mortar I would think Custom's Versabond or Flexbond will be fit for purpose. Both are available at Home Depot. They both are available in white or gray. Use white.

For the sealer; Custom's Aqua Mix Sealers Sealers Choice Gold. Don't expect that the sealer will penetrate the glaze on the tile, it won't, but it might get into the crackle enough to prevent the grout from getting into it - which is what you hope to achieve with the sealer.

Custom's Prism grout, or their Fusion Pro are solid choices that I've seen mentioned here dozens of time. Fusion Pro is a single component grout, comes pre-mixed in a bucket. Regardless of which you choose you might use the search feature of this forum to see what others here have to say about them.

Before committing to a grout it is good practice to create a test board. Use a piece of scrap drywall, mix up a tiny bit of thinset mortar, adhere maybe 6 of those tiles, seal them, then grout and clean them. That way you'll know if the grout will play nicely with the sealed crackle finish.

Don't forget to plan the layout of your tile. Considerations like centering the pattern at the sink, or at the cook top. If there is an inside corner to deal with. Or how to finish the ends of the tile runs where they don't but up against anything else.
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Unread 10-17-2020, 09:39 AM   #9
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When tiling directly over paint, sometimes the moisture in the thinset will cause the paint to easily turn loose from the wall. The primer you installed might prevent this but I'm not sure. I have lightly sanded the paint and tiled over it without problems but as an installer, we never know what type of paint was used or if a primer is behind it. So, I like to wipe the wall/paint with a wet sponge, give it a couple minutes and wipe it again. Give it a couple more minutes to soak in and see if the paint will peel off. Most of the time the paint peels off with ease. Then I paint the wall with Mapei's Eco Prime grip. That will give you a good tiling surface.

Another choice of thinset is white Custom's Pro light. It's sold at Home Depot and is non sag, which usually helps when tiling walls.

Another sealer choice is Miracle 511 porous plus. Also from HD. It's solvent based which has deeper penetration and seems to work better than the water based sealers.
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Unread 10-17-2020, 09:50 AM   #10
Germaintile
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Thank you for tips on Mortar and Grout

Thank you Dan. This is extremely helpful information and tips for my tiling job.

I appreciate it. I will gather these materials. Thank you, also, Davy for your input

on my painted wall.
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Unread 10-23-2020, 03:35 PM   #11
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Laticrete products for wall ceramic tile?

This is to follow up on the last steps in my research before installing
crackle subway tiles for kitchen backsplash.

I happen to like a color grout for my tiles that is Laticrete brand--Silver Shadow.

I spoke to Laticrete about mortar/thin set and sealer and grout.


They recommend:
1. 254 Platinum Mortar/Thin Set
2. Stonetech Heavy Duty Sealer (I asked for water based).
3. Permacolor Grout, a cement based grout that you mix with water.

Does anyone have an opinion about using these products instead of comparable
products from Custom or Mapei? It is rather arbitrary on my part, stemming from
the color choice being Laticrete.

I just thought to use all one line, but I could mix it up if there is reason to.

Thanks
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Unread 10-23-2020, 04:11 PM   #12
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Water based or Solvent based Sealer?

Dear forum,

I am tiling crackle subway tiles for my kitchen backsplash. I have gotten different advice about the sealer. I will do a test of a few tiles in all events. But, I want advice about sealer. Do I need to use a Solvent Based sealer over the crackle tiles, or is Water Based adequate? My tiles do absorb water drops after ten seconds. I would prefer to have a less "smelly" application, if possible as I do not have a kitchen window. (I assume that water based sealer is less intense?) I would seal the tiles after putting them on the mortar and then again after the grout, sealing the grout as well.

The tile is a crackle blue tile and the grout color is a very light grey color.

Any thoughts? Thanks
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Unread 10-23-2020, 04:33 PM   #13
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Ocean Care Penetration Sealer

I am thinking to use Ocean Care Penetrating Sealer which is low VOC.

Has anyone her used this sealer for ceramic tile?
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Unread 10-23-2020, 05:13 PM   #14
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First thing to understand is that 'sealer' is somewhat of a misnomer...it will not prevent a stain on a tile or stop it from absorbing things...it will slow it down, giving you time to clean up a spill.

Personally, I'm not sure that finish of tile is a great choice for a kitchen backsplash, but it sounds like that's past.

Both sealers will penetrate. With any sealer, make sure to follow the instructions to the letter. Most require you to NOT let it dry on the surface of the tile. With most, if you do, it will produce a haze that is hard to remove. You need to buff it within the indicated timeframe to remove the excess from the surface. WIth a crackled finish, that may be more difficult.

On some tile, a sealer can change the overall look, so yes, you do need to test. Some manufacturers will send you a small sample rather than having to buy a larger amount, so maybe call those you think you're interested in to check. A tile shop might have some sample bottles. A good sealer is expensive.
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Unread 10-23-2020, 05:17 PM   #15
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Mary, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.
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