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Unread 11-04-2019, 12:50 PM   #61
jackal2001
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That was my point. Window not sealed in sides, window not sealed on outside house side, tile stuck on with kerdi fix, wtf about I trust him?
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Unread 11-04-2019, 04:28 PM   #62
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I will send you 4 vycor corners if you wish.Just ran across them while cleaning out the shed in this 55 f heat wave. . they are sold in like a 20 pack or something if I recall. I had like 12 windows to do.
I think that last picture leaves no doubt that it isn't even attempting water proof practices. I think its risky enough relying on proper caulk joints for long term. Proper means using backer rod when needed so the thickness width meet MFG specs for each Caulk. No way can the owner stand by that picture and say its good... if so he is used to years of BS-ing customers. its called lying.

I'm not sure about your house's exposure to rain and wind. Mine is severe. this damage happened in 15 years. so I'm hoping the round two of entire house widow /siding system repair will last longer. I spear headed the work this time.
I cant seem to find a picture of how I wrapped the windows but it is like a combination of the most complete jobs you can view on youtube. I even tested Caulks for adhesion with the vycor envy house wrap. I can assure you the window flanges are caulked to the flashing which was the 9" sticky type. we did agree to leave 2 2" wide drainage gaps in the caulking on the bottom edge about 3" from the corner. Although I maintain water should not be inside to need draining.
The foam is the window low expansion stuff but you can see how that goes. What a mess. Since the drywall was existing I drilled 1/4" filler holes every 6-8". this foam to me is more for insulation but it also stops airflow which can carry water sideways and against gravity.
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Unread 11-04-2019, 04:43 PM   #63
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This all casts doubt on the niche construction, as well. And it is sure to be in a soak zone.

In the video walk through..disclaimer, I watched with no sound.

0:07 - why is there a kerdi niche in the closet? Was that the plan, and they field-built a different size? Did you plan on having two, but only one fit?

0:57 - The partition wall isn't well waterproofed either. corner Kerdi band doesn't go all the way to the floor. I see seams without kerdi band in the door jamb space, which is a wet zone to me. Every corner of that partition deserves kerdi band/corners. Looks like they skimped. Here's what I did on mine: before and after corner banding.

Why is the slab on top of the wall so narrow?

0:058-1:02 - why are there so few fasteners in the foam board? That is supposed to be screw on to the wall framing. I see what looks like maybe 5 screws or washers? Looks poorly attached.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 05:02 AM   #64
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Pulled a tile off the wall that was basically falling off anyway and this is what it looked like. This was along the back, opposite wall of the shower head, wall.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 08:19 AM   #65
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it looks like the thinset was to set up to much and he tried to stretch it and when they didn't stick he used kerdi fix. probably plenty of kerdi fix supplied by boss man?

I wonder if he had to pull those tiles to align them better (only thing customer and boss will notice) and rather than clean off the old thinset and mix up more he used kerdifix.
Is that thinset hard as a rock? Hopefully he is using the correct stuff?
Mistakes.
1 He didn't burn the thinset into the kerdi
2 he didn't back butter the tile


So I dont think this guy knows how to tile.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 11:21 AM   #66
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I'm sorry Butch. This looks bad.

Mortar coverage should be 95% in that application (interior wet area) and even if you called it an interior dry area, it would want to be minimum 80%. All corners and edges should be fully supported every instance. It looks like you have 5% coverage, large air voids, and no supported edges. The experts can tell you what the risks are, but I'd find the best way to get rid of that contractor and get your money back asap.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 11:27 AM   #67
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Any tips for removing the kerdi pan from the plywood?
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Unread 11-05-2019, 12:06 PM   #68
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If it was set on the plywood with the correct mortar, and done well, I'd think it's not likely to come off the plywood without tearing it to pieces. Still, shouldn't be too hard, cleaning the dried mortar off the plywood will be harder.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 03:34 PM   #69
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Outside bottom corners of the window. Guess that is going to leak.
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Unread 11-09-2019, 06:21 AM   #70
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Yeah, just a bit.

Sorry, Butch, that's simply lousy workmanship, and would suggest the rest of it is of similar quality. If there's a silver lining it is that you caught it now.
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Unread 11-10-2019, 07:27 AM   #71
jackal2001
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I made another issues video.
https://youtu.be/VVcQRKGXI8o

I'm guessing the entire bathroom needs to be gutted.
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Unread 11-12-2019, 09:49 PM   #72
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I watched the video. Cringed the whole time. Sad part is that your experience isn’t uncommon and you may face similar challenges trying to rebuild this same bathroom. When you go to pick your next contractor, have all these discussions early. All the talks about material, method, waterproofing, etc should happen before you sign the contract and should be referenced in the contract too.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 12:19 PM   #73
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Lots of small mistakes all over, some of which are cosmetic. A few big mistakes as well.

You seemed unsure of the toilet flange part...

The metal toilet flange should be resting on the tile. The tile was cut too much around it. The fix for that would be to put some cement patch under it to support it, or pieces of tile and thinset. Once solid, drill down and screw it. You will never see it under the toilet, so that alone is not the end of the world.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 05:03 AM   #74
jackal2001
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Playlist of demo
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Vc2JnFgpSj_ZGA
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Unread 11-20-2019, 07:11 AM   #75
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Usually I just sit back and watch to see how these things turn out. Just watched the HVAC video and have to chime in.
Aside from the floor structure being hacked up (that has to be repaired and sistered along as much of the joist as you can - not just with 2x4’s); is the wall where you planned GFI’s load bearing? You’ve got lots of weakened studs there. It looks like the joist bay you wanted the toe kick vent in has a run of supply duct. Can you tap your branch from there in the same bay and just seal up the existing tap off? If the air return is simply the between joist space (I think that’s what you said), with all the holes that are all over; you’re sucking everything into your HVAC and then breathing it in. I wouldn’t want to be breathing from all the crap that was under my floor, and my house structure looks like it was built by morons. Yours looks scarier than mine
Is you electrical panel right behind your bathroom? What’s with the massive bundle (with the associated big hole) through the joists? With all the joint hacking and being right opposite the door, my concern would be that over time and traffic; you’d get enough floor flexing to start cracking tiles and put you right back where you are now.
I’ll sit back and shut up now....
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