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Unread 09-02-2019, 02:53 AM   #16
Kman
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I think he mentioned it's between the planks and plywood.

The answer would be 'no'.

Is the plywood in good condition? Any squeaks when it's walked on?
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Unread 09-02-2019, 06:32 AM   #17
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I thought the planks were gone, Kevin, and I feared he was putting the roofing felt (I presume) between plywood layers, which would be a no-go as you pointed out. Actually, still a no if he replaced the planks.

You could glue the plywood layers in that patch, Mike, but I don't think you'll gain much and I wouldn't bother, even though I'm a glue-everything in subfloor applications person.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-02-2019, 06:39 AM   #18
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For some reason the floor was originally constructed with tar paper aka felt in between the planks and plywood.

Everything is in good condition except by the shower. There is some water damage that caused the top layer of plywood to delaminate in a few spots. I was going to cut that all out.
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Unread 09-02-2019, 08:09 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
The floor is build of 2x12 joists 12in on center. A 12 for Alan. There are pine 1x6 planks (nominal) with a layer of thick tar paper then 5/8in plywood. Nothing is glued. Just nails and screws.
That's from his post yesterday.

I don't know what the part in bold is referring to.
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Unread 09-02-2019, 08:15 AM   #20
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Saw that. Me, too.
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Unread 09-02-2019, 10:37 AM   #21
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Posting from a phone can do that...

Doesn't mean anything. Ignore it. I was trying to say a 12 foot span.
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Unread 09-02-2019, 11:39 AM   #22
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I would probably secure the plywood directly to the joists with deck screws. The reason for that is in similar situations I've seen the planks nailed to the joists, and the plywood to the planks. If the planks aren't secure, then the whole assembly isn't secure.

That's why I asked if there were any squeaks.
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Unread 09-02-2019, 11:56 AM   #23
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Here is the current state of demo. You can see the floor holes, and what repairs are looking like.
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Unread 09-04-2019, 06:30 AM   #24
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That horizontal vent, Mike, looks like it isn't leaving much left of those six 2X4 studs. All y'all putting tile on that wall?
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Unread 09-04-2019, 06:37 AM   #25
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I have to cut out that horizontal section of the vents, and then run everything to the attic and connect it all up there. I will then replace or sister the cut studs.

I'm wondering though for the floor repair, should I take into account the thickness of the tar paper when replacing the floor with plywood or do I ignore the tar paper? Or maybe make up the thickness with adhesive? It is pretty thick at 1/16 and it does not compress.
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Unread 09-04-2019, 07:37 AM   #26
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You'll want to account for the thickness in your patch, Mike, but I would not do it with roofing felt between plywood layers. I think I'd want to shim your first layer at the top of your framing to get the final layer of the patch flush with the rest of the subfloor.

Not sure why they added the felt in that location to begin with, but I'm sure somebody thought it a good idea at the time. We commonly use a felt layer between plywood subflooring and sawn board flooring where differential movement is a given and we want to accommodate it, but in the layering you have I just don't understand it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-04-2019, 07:46 AM   #27
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Thanks! That's what I figured.

There was some expanded metal lath and plaster on the walls. Mostly the top 6in of the room. That was a total PITA to remove. Looks like the whole ceiling is plaster and the walls used to be plaster. When the room was remodeled in 1990, they cut it all out and left the top 6in. There is one wall where the entire top foot is plaster. I have not removed it. It is above the big window and I do not need access inside it.

I have read that if plaster is in good shape, just leave it. It is actually better than drywall. What if you nicked and cracked the plaster when removing tiles? Can drywallers just patch it with gypsum? I doubt the drywallers will want to deal with repairing any plaster damage with proper plaster.
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Unread 09-04-2019, 08:19 AM   #28
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If the plaster is basically sound, Mike, your drywall finishers should have no trouble at all finishing over it when they do the rest of the walls. Biggest difficulty you're likely to have is getting your new walls in plane with the old plaster portions, which are likely to be thicker than your-inch half drywall panels. Maybe thicker than 5/8ths-inch drywall, but I can't really see it from here, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-04-2019, 08:58 AM   #29
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good point. if it is far out of plane from half inch drywall, i will demo it out. I'll have to check that this weekend.
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Unread 09-04-2019, 11:34 AM   #30
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Do you reckon the tar paper was to prevent squeaks?
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