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Unread 10-17-2011, 11:47 AM   #16
BIGPHIL
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Tile choices....

Ok, the tub is coming along. I took down the cbu and furred the walls out using some lathe. I nailed the lathe to the studs using some 1 1/4" hot dipped galvanized nails. I read an article that recommended using some constructions adhesive along with the nails...is that really necessary? I heard a few pieces of lathe crack when I put the screws into the cbu, but I dont think it should be of an concern...hopefully.

So onto the tile. I was set on getting this certain tile, but its quite expensive (2k for the entire bathroom and I'm already well over budget on this thing). I still want to get a porcelain tile for its durability but do have a question. What type of porcelain tile would be best for a bathroom and tub surround? Glazed or unglazed, through body??? Is there such a thing as a glazed through body? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated
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Unread 10-17-2011, 12:15 PM   #17
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That's why I prefer rips of plywood for furring in that application, Phil, they don't crack when fastened or when fastened to. And I always us construction adhesive when installing them.
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I heard a few pieces of lathe crack when I put the screws into the cbu, but I dont think it should be of an concern...hopefully.
Certainly wouldn't make me happy. If your fasteners were long enough to give adequate penetration into the studs you might be OK. Your call.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-17-2011, 12:43 PM   #18
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Crap. This project is driving me crazy. Well its not to late to do it again I suppose. I am using 1 5/8" BackerOn screws btw. I'll take it all down and gets some 1/4 ply and rip it. My girlfriend is gonna be soooooo pissed. I told her that "this is it...that wall is in place!" When I go to take it down tonight I'm sure I'll get a couple of black eyes.

On another note....one wall I need to bring out 1/2" instead of 1/4", would it be ok to use the longer gray screws that are purpose made for Durock/WonderBoard in the HardieBacker? They are high/low screws 2 1/4" long.
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Unread 10-17-2011, 12:51 PM   #19
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How much blacker will your eyes be if your tile work came tumbling down because of some time-saving shortcut you took hanging the backerboard?

Use the screws that will give you at least 3/4" of penetration into the studs. That would be at least 1-3/4" long for a 1/2" shim. As long as they are made for someone's backerboard, they'll work in anyone's backerboard.
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Unread 10-17-2011, 01:01 PM   #20
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Thats exactly why I will take it down and do it again, Bob...I want this setup to last for a long time with no issues! Maybe I'll send her a link to this thread so she will go a little easier on me.
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Unread 10-17-2011, 01:09 PM   #21
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Oh, sure, sic her on us! What did we ever do to you?
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Unread 10-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #22
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Update...tub is FINALLY in and all plumbing hooked up. It was nice to take a bath and not a "sink"

Quick question. Do I need to use cbu tape and thinset on the joints where the opposing walls meet or where the walls and ceiling meet?...or just were two sheets meet each other on the same wall? All this talk about movement joints got me thinking twice about how to proceed with this part. I do understand that a movement joint will be needed at these spots when it comes to grout time though.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 04:15 PM   #23
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The wall to ceiling joint need not be taped unless this is a steam shower.

The corner joints need to be taped unless this is a steam shower.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 04:20 PM   #24
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Not a steam shower Bob, just a normal residential shower. Ok, I will tape/thinset the wall joints. Will it hurt anything if I do tape the ceiling joint? I think my gap is a little larger than 1/8" at one side.
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Unread 10-25-2011, 04:13 AM   #25
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Won't hurt anything. If you are tiling the ceiling, use CBU tape and thinset. If painted, you can use drywall tape and compound.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 07:13 PM   #26
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quick question for any plumbers (or whoever knows the answer). Is it ok to use some flexible 1/2" copper pipe for some plumbing? I have to move a couple of pipes over about 1 1/4" and it will be easier to do it from the top than the crawl space and extending/drilling new holes in the subfloor. Existing plumbing is 1/2" copper so was thinking of using some couplings and the flexible stuff instead of making a crazy joints with regular L or M copper tubes.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 08:31 PM   #27
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You sure can. That's one of its uses. As long as it doesn't interfere with the solidness of the valve body staying in one place, you're good to go.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 12:19 AM   #28
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Phil, you can use that Type M for your rigid copper for straight runs, but use the Type L for your soft copper pipe. I guess a fella could use Type K if he could find it, but it can be a large PITA sometimes.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 09:48 AM   #29
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Perfect...thanks Paul and CX. I'll use some type L soft temper. Just read a few articles on this and L or K are the only approved soft temper copper types to be used for water distribution.
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Unread 11-06-2012, 11:24 AM   #30
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Ok, as promised...some pictures of the final project (well minus the mirrors and window trim ;-). I do have a little advice for the DIY'er for taking on a project of this magnitude.

1) However long you think its going to take, multiply that by 10!
2) Doing a job like this the correct way ain't cheap!
3) Get a smoother tile than I did...grouting it is NOT fun!!!!!!!!!! (my tile almost feels like sandpaper on top)
4) I found working with unsanded grout much easier than sanded. So...use 1/8 grout lines or less, or try StarQuartz 2.
5) Install the toilet flange ON TOP of the finished floor if you can. It just makes sense! And DONT caulk around the bottom of the toilet (if there is a leak, you WANT to see the water so you can fix it before it causes major issues!). Just go slow with the diamond core bit when drilling the holes for the flange...and putty around the hole and fill with water so the bit doesnt burn up when drilling.
6) Thoroughly read the directions for ALL products you plan to use. Its super important! (i.e., HardiBacker needs to be wiped down with a damp sponge immediately before applying waterproofing membrane or it wont adhere properly). Each product is different so you gotta know how to use it properly.
7) Invest in a beer company before you start. You'll see an immediate jump in their stock after the first day ;-)

So heres a list of the materials I used:
tub/shower walls and ceiling - Hardibacker 500
walls/ceiling waterproofing - Laticrete WaterTight (3 even coats)
Thinset for walls/ceiling - Laticrete 255 Multimax (super sticky stuff and great consistency)
Floor underlayment/waterproofing - Schluter Ditra and Kerdi band
Thinset under floor tiles - Laticrete 272
Thinset under Ditra w/ plywood subfloor - Versabond
Tiles - Century Ceramica, Discovery line, patagonia color
Tub - Maxx
Terlit - Kohler
Vanity - Costco
Paint - Sherwin Williams Harmony, wall color Palisade

Thanks again for all of the help on the forum. I could have done it without you, but it would have fallen down in a week ;-)
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Last edited by BIGPHIL; 11-06-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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