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Unread 12-13-2020, 12:46 AM   #46
Tool Guy - Kg
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You can plumb it that way. Probably the least effort. But if you have access to the pipes from below...and lamenting that the pipes aren’t coming out of the back wall, it wouldn’t be much more work to use those two elbows to put the pipes in the wall. And a third elbow to have it pop out of the wall at whatever height was good.


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Unread 12-13-2020, 02:36 AM   #47
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Unfortunately, no access from below in this room...
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Unread 12-13-2020, 08:40 AM   #48
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Is that rear board (blue) part of the cabinet structure, Pete, or only a shipping brace? Now much space is there between the wall and the pipe (red)? How much space is there between the rear board (blue) and the back of the drawer (yellow)?

Maybe shortening the drawer a bit is an option, depending on how it's constructed.
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Unread 12-13-2020, 09:07 AM   #49
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Not sure what a "....... brace" is and a google search is, well... interesting... That bottom board can be removed - it is held in by a couple of staples through a plastic 90º angle corner piece.

Space between wall and pipe: Center of pipe is 3.5" from wall.
Space between rear board and back of drawer: 1.5"

Drawer construction leads me to believe that it would be amenable to modification fairly easily. That might be the best option!

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Unread 12-13-2020, 09:16 AM   #50
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Apologies for the typo, Pete, "shipping" was the intended word.

Edit made to mine, and yours as well so as not to offend.
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Unread 12-13-2020, 09:43 AM   #51
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It seems like if you cut the pipes to the necessary height, set the vanity in place, and then played with the orientation of the 90's (angle them more towards the sides of the vanity than towards the back wall) you ought to be able to get the pipe to end up vertical between the bottom brace and the back of the drawer, while keeping the pipes far enough away from the all so the vanity can be removed/installed.

After seeing it I think I'd leave the drawer alone.
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Unread 12-13-2020, 11:56 PM   #52
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Well ss3964spd, as I mentioned before, I lack foresight...

I did what you suggested and was VERY excited with how well it worked out. It went perfectly.... right up to the point that it didn't...

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You can see in the first picture, these are installed inside the vanity without the obtrusive full-sized bottom drawer in place. Then the second picture from top down and the drawer still out (there is a bolster running along the inside at the bottom of the picture).

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Unfortunately, when I reinstalled the P-trap, well, my folly is obvious. It basically lives inside the bottom drawer. I could modify the drawer, cut the back piece out, make it lower. Maybe it would fit. I might have to modify that bolster in the middle too, because I am not sure if the p-trap would fit in that orientation past the top and middle drawers even... sigh...

So, it was decided that returning this was the right decision... 2 trips back and forth to the big box store for returns, and we are two vanities lighter for the moment. (I am not confident that returning these vanities was the right decision... but this was the decision handed down from someone whose opinion carries more weight than mine).

Sigh... So we are trying to find better fitting vanities now...

For now I am turning my attention to the following:
1) Baseboards. I have learned that nothing is a 90º angle...
2) Toilet (re) installation. Got a flange that will make the distance from the height of the new floor down to the old pipe.

Thanks for the advice so far. Back to shopping for vanities...
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Unread 12-14-2020, 09:14 AM   #53
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Ah, well that's a buzz kill. While looking at one of the previous photos I did, fleetingly, wonder if the trap was going to interfere with the bottom drawer but couldn't quite tell.

My initial reaction was to open the wall and re-work the drain to raise it 6-ish inches. If you were married to those vanities you could remove the offending brace above the bottom drawer and add some blocks to the cabinet sides to pick up the rear mounting points for the drawer slides. But now that you've divested yourselves of those...

New vanities, if they have a bottom, will be a fun new challenge.
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Unread 12-22-2020, 03:11 PM   #54
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Got a new vanity installed after returning the last disaster. It works nicely. Got another one to do. Same price as the last one, but higher quality (slow close doors, better trim around the outside, marble sink). And the best part, no obtrusive drawers!

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I'm not sold on the green paint color yet, but I will reserve judgement until later to see how it all ties in.

I have spent a good bit of time learning how to do baseboards... I got this weird concave wall here. Hard to see really well in the picture but...

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The baseboard is flat in the picture but the wall dips inwards just a hair under 1/2". Should I use the flat baseboard and fill the gap with weatherseal foam/gap filler? Seems like the caulking on top of the baseboard would be wide at 1/2". Is there a better way to trim this weird concave wall?
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Unread 12-22-2020, 05:46 PM   #55
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If it’s too late to flatten the wall a bit; you’ll be surprised how much the trim will flex. Make sure you hit the studs with the trim nails. Filling the gap that much will not pleasing at all. 1/8” or so, yeah, you can get away with an no one will notice. 1/2” is going be glaring, let alone act like a shelf to catch dust and crap.
It’s all part of the fun.
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Unread 12-22-2020, 06:08 PM   #56
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Purely aesthetic consideration, Pete. I agree with Jeff that you'll have no trouble at all fastening that baseboard to the wall as is. Will you be pleased with the look? I dunno. Will Mrs. Pete be pleased with the look? I'd sure wanna just tack it in place and find out before I nailed it.

Might cause your miter at the corner to open a bit, too.

I suspect you're not interested in fixing the wall?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-22-2020, 08:49 PM   #57
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To be honest, I didn't even think about fixing the wall... hmmm. I'll consider it. I didn't notice it's concavity until just now, so I doubt that it will bother me if I can get the baseboard to bend snug along with it.

Alright. I will tack it in place, and see how it looks, a job for another day once the tile is installed and I can cut it to the appropriate length. Thanks for the info about that miter opening up. I NEVER would have thought of that.

Now back to tile questions. I have once again reached a roadblack/analysis-paralysis. I should set a warning to go off on my computer once I hit 30 tabs open simultaneously...

Here is my current situation. CBU (hardiebacker) up and all CBU-to-CBU joints taped as well as the CBU-to-Drywall joint around the back of the tub. I have the picture of the back up both with and without the window trim.

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front. corner bead still needs to be installed.

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back. Without window trim.

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Back. With Window Trim.

So I want to make sure that I do this the right way. My plan is to install the tile up to the CBU-to-Drywall joint.

Steps (that I am not sure are correct...):
a) Per hardiebacker instructions - use modified thinset over CBU-to-CBU joints and CBU-to-drywall joints (See question 1). Use wet/not-dripping sponge first to remove dust and slightly saturate CBU prior to applying this modified thinset.
b) Then install Kerdiband around tub legs and tub flange using UNmodified thinset (I have some schluter all-set leftover) + Kerdi fix per Schluter instructions in the oft-cited video. Tub leg CBU is 3 inches. Kerdiband is 5 inches wide. (see questions 2, 3. 4).
c) Assuming step a and b are correct with kerdiband over the tub flange and adjacent to tub legs, use the waterproofing system (Angie purchased RedGuard) on any remaining exposed CBU.
d) Tile...

Questions:
1) I have read that modified thinset OR drywall joint compound can be used at the CBU-to-Drywall joint, depending on where the tile will end. Given that I am planning to run the tile up to that joint, is the modified thinset correct?
2) The CBU joint tape currently runs down into the corners down to the tub and will be covered with thinset per step a. Does the Kerdi band goes over this thinset-covered-tape? Or do I cut the tape to end 5 inches above the tub deck so that there is room for the Kerdiband in a space with no tape?
3) For the front tub leg, does the metal corner bead get installed before the kerdi band?
4) Given that the Kerdiband is 5 inches wide and the front tub leg is about 3 inches, do I just fold the excess Kerdiband over the corner onto the drywall?
5) I am not sure what to do with the window. I am not set on keeping that old window trim and may upgrade/change it if it will make the tile install easier. In this situation, where the window is partway in the intended tile-area, do you typically tile up to 1/8" away from the window trim and caulk to the window trim? There is not enough room to fit tile behind that window trim currently, although there is a gap in the sill there for the previously removed tile. Cutting a piece of tile to fit around the window trim would be challenging. Really, the whole window situation confuses me.

Any help is appreciated here. Sorry. Lots of questions.
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Unread 12-25-2020, 07:20 PM   #58
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First of all, Merry Christmas and/or Happy Holidays!

I wanted to bump this thread as I am working on this tonight and tomorrow morning. I think I asked too many questions last time, so I want to narrow it down and maybe get quick answer from anyone perusing...

Got my hardiebacker up. Based on my reading from other threads, a fabric membrane (I have kerdi band) around the tub is important, if not a "must." Using fiber board tape with modified thinset on the joints between the boards.

Since the joints run down to the tub deck in the corners (see the pictures in the prior post), which would be covered by the kerdiband+unmodified thinset, would I continue to the mesh tape+modified thinset down to the tub deck, or stop 5" above the tub where the kerdiband will be applied? Does this even matter?
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Unread 12-25-2020, 08:19 PM   #59
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1. You can use drywall tape and mud anywhere outside the wet area. It's not entirely proper to tile over drywall mud using thinset mortar, but for the small areas you're talking about it wouldn't trouble me at all. If it's within the wet area of your shower you must use the alkali resistant mesh and thinset mortar, but if it's in the wet area there should be no drywall anyway. If you prefer to use the thinset mortar outside the wet area you can certainly do that.

2. You could do that either way, but I'd prefer to apply my KerdiBand over the open joint. But, then, I'd prefer to be using Kerdi on the entire wall and none of the CBU joints would be pre-filled at all.

3. I do not use corner bead at any corner that's gonna be tiled to the corner. If you feel you must, I'd install the corner bead prior to the waterproofing membrane.

4. I would not.

5. If my window casing were not suitable to be rabbeted out to fit over the tile, I'd tile up to the casing leaving a gap as you suggest and filling the gap with a flexible sealant.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-10-2021, 11:27 AM   #60
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Offset on tub surround walls with square LFT?

Thanks CX. Great advice as usual.

I didn't like the old window trim anyways, so I went ahead and said "Enough of this window trim!" and did away with it. I will make a square window casing/trim and tile up to that.

For the tub walls, I am planning on using the same tile on the floor - which you can see here.

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It is 20"x20" porcelain. The floor is 30% offset.

For the tub walls, I am trying to set up the offset. I am trying to imagine what it would look like in my head (google image search is proving fruitless, so I drew up some paint shop pro schematics). I am looking to see if others have an opinion on large format square tile on the wall. Based on what I have read here, I am under the impression that I should avoid 50% offset to avoid lippage.

So, 30% offset vs. no offset between rows? Is it "whatever I (lets be honest: my wife) thinks looks better?" Or is there a reason that I should avoid square LFT tiles on a tub wall with 30% offset.

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I am a little worried that the perfect grid with its nice straight lines might accentuate imperfections , but I do think it looks a little better.
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