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Unread 04-03-2014, 08:16 PM   #16
jgleason
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Hi Steve,

It is preferred that you use the attachment method to upload your images directly into the forum database. This helps ensure the size requirements are met (the forum will auto resize uploaded images) and ensures that the images will always be displayed in your post. (Images hotlinked from 3rd party sites can disappear over time leaving your posts without the visual context originally intended).

Note-if your image files are >2MB you will have to resize them first. Handy utility for doing that is here - http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/

When using Tapatalk - Choose the camera icon and upload an image from your phone/tablet. please don't use the "insert image from link" option.
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Unread 04-04-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
Davy
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Steve, you can patch it if you want but we usually don't recommend it. Dry pack likes to crumble once the top surface has been removed. I would go ahead and bust the rest of the tile up and see what the mud looks like overall. I would hate for you to patch it and then have movement problems with you new tile job.
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Unread 04-12-2014, 05:07 PM   #18
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Well you guys were spot on -- here's what my floor currently looks like, no way patching was going to help this. Thought pulling up the dry pack would be tough but so far it's coming up in chunks without resistance via a flat bar...

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Unread 04-12-2014, 08:56 PM   #19
Davy
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Yep, push the flat bar under the mud, right against the plywood and pry the nails/staples up. It will come up without too much work.

If it's not stapled very well, sometimes a flat shovel will work really well.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 07:46 PM   #20
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Sub-Floor Plan Advice

Planning out my subfloor, bottom up, it's going to look like this -- anyone have thoughts if this is the right way to go for heated floors? Mainly interested in the 1" of deck mud and 1/8" of SLC to cover the heated mat:
  • Plywood
  • Tar Paper
  • Cork (Condo Requirement)
  • Wire Mesh
  • Deck Mud 1"
  • Heated Flooring
  • SLC 1/8"
  • DITRA
  • 12x24 TILE

Thanks in advance!
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Last edited by Kimbo; 04-18-2014 at 07:54 PM.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 08:17 PM   #21
cx
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Steve, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

I don't see that we know anything about your floor structure, including joist spacing or thickness of subflooring. You can guess that it's all OK because you had tile before, but I don't favor such guessing.

Not sure why you'd want the roofing felt in that package nor how you'd attach your cork to the subfloor if you used that. Indeed, I don't see a good way to use cork where you have it in that package and honestly don't know how that would work. You'll need to fasten your lath to the floor and you're not gonna be able to do that effectively on the cork.

You could, of course, place a mud bed over the proper kind of cork, but again, I'm just not sure how that's gonna work. Not saying it won't, just saying I don't know just how it will.

Next thing I don't know is what your SLC manufacturer is gonna say about pouring an eighth-inch of his product over all that. You've checked with your selected manufacturer?

And then there's Schluter. They might think it's all fine, but I'd wanna check with them first, just in case.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-30-2014, 09:27 PM   #22
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Thanks CX - can we rename this thread to "Steve (from Tahoe) DIY Bathroom Project"?
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Unread 04-30-2014, 09:45 PM   #23
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Schluter Shower Drain

Question on Schluter Drains... I learned that my local building code for multifamily units only allows metal drains/pipe - so looks like the Kerdi ABS/PVC options are out. I see that Schluter makes 2 Stainless Steel drain options - a No Hub and a Threaded. Does anyone have any experience with these?

No Hub Question:
I do not have access to the drain from below - does the no-hub need to be connected with a Fernco style adapter (after the pan is laid down)? Thinking no drain access from below or the side would rule this option out.

Threaded Question:
Seems like the threaded drain might be what i need -- can't find any installation information on this drain, does it get hand tightened from above the foam tray? Literature says it only requires pipe tape applied to the threads for installation...

Thank you!
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Unread 04-30-2014, 09:53 PM   #24
jadnashua
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It has a tapered pipe thread, so needs either pipe dope or tape. SOme prefer one, some the other, and some use both. It's important since a tapered pipe thread is NOT waterproof without one or the other, regardless of how tight you get it.

The size of the drain's outer diameter is big enough so that you should be able to tighten it sufficiently without any tools.

Their toll-free support line has some good people that can help and make sure you get the right choice for your situation.
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Unread 04-30-2014, 09:55 PM   #25
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Calling their PA office first thing in the morning -- will post an update on their advice. Thanks!
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Unread 05-07-2014, 08:06 AM   #26
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Spoke to a Schluter tech -- really good guys over there. Basically told me that the threaded drain is pretty new, pretty simple install though, just tape and screw from up top.

The tech also gave me a good tip on installing the kerdi system over tar paper - said to lay down a 5mm kerdi board, screw it to the subfloor then lay on top of that. Not having to remove all that adhesive tar paper works for me!
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