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Unread 02-25-2016, 06:29 PM   #20656
Chad Deiter Company
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That's a crap load of Green Skin. Looking forward to trying the Laticrete version.
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Unread 02-26-2016, 03:59 PM   #20657
ceramictec
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Finished plank tile project. Tile was a wood look 6x36 plank Florentia "Woodhurst" Amber plank from Floor & Decor an installed in Wesley Chapel, Florida. The plank was cupped some so I had to run them closer more then the regular random wood look pattern I do.

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Unread 02-26-2016, 06:23 PM   #20658
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Very nice, Brian! I still like the 1/3 stagger better, but I understand why you did it this way....
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Unread 02-26-2016, 08:56 PM   #20659
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Nice work as always Brian!

Some Stonepeak large panels,30"x60". Simple and straight forward.
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Unread 02-27-2016, 10:53 AM   #20660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houston Remodeler
Some kerdi board, some Greenskin, some Hydroban and we are ready for tile in your average 240 square foot bathroom.

I'm installing the same bathtub in a few days. Is it attached to the subfloor with adhesive or a mudbed? Is the framing level with the top of the tub or is there a height difference?
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Unread 02-27-2016, 11:29 AM   #20661
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The tub is set in a mud bed, as per the plumbers old school preference. The framing is the same height as the tub to allow the greenskin to bond to the tub flange and the top of the plywood framing giving a waterproof deck and sides. The top plate 2x4 on the far left is removed and the 3/4" plywood remains as the length of the valve bodies aren't that long once the 3/4" slab top is accounted.
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Unread 02-27-2016, 01:16 PM   #20662
ceramictec
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Very nice, Brian! I still like the 1/3 stagger better, but I understand why you did it this way....
cool. I'm not much for a repetitive tile type pattern with a faux wood tile. It takes away from what it supposed to mimic.
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Unread 02-27-2016, 06:08 PM   #20663
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Another fun day in paradise lol.
Think I set a record,for installing three pieces of CBU along header and two returns. 2.5 hours lol.

The rockers royally hacked up the returns,had 3 screws holding entire 4' in length denshield on header,and was cocked at a 70 degree angle(nailer was next to edge too,block opening prevailing). No conscieous,and/or don't give a fudge attitude my guess.

3 trips from plumber,to get drains centered and at correct elevations etc.
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Unread 02-27-2016, 06:10 PM   #20664
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Unread 02-28-2016, 09:29 AM   #20665
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Quote:
Ceramictec
cool. I'm not much for a repetitive tile type pattern with a faux wood tile. It takes away from what it supposed to mimic.
I feel the same way. No real wood floor is in a pattern that I've ever seen.
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Unread 02-28-2016, 10:29 AM   #20666
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The last plank floor we did I developed a pattern that was easier on the eyes.

Since they were bowed (shocking I know) the offset had to be as little as possible. We would do 5 offset to the right, then 3 offset to the left, then to 2 offset to the right, then 3 offset to the left, then 2 offset to the right and repeat.

Any pattern like that keeps the installer from getting unconsciously repetitive
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Unread 02-28-2016, 11:44 AM   #20667
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Pitches within codes for Sarasota county,2" from finish to top of curb....and 1/4" per ft minimum,1/2" per ft max
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Unread 02-28-2016, 12:52 PM   #20668
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Tile work looks alright, but I'd sure swap a few pesos for a nicer drain. Them Oatey's dont really compliment a fine tile job!
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Unread 02-28-2016, 02:14 PM   #20669
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When installing real hardwood the rule of thumb is to have a stagger twice as long as the plank is wide..trivia
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Unread 02-29-2016, 09:16 AM   #20670
ceramictec
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Quote:
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When installing real hardwood the rule of thumb is to have a stagger twice as long as the plank is wide..trivia
Yep, with a good plank tile you can get away with that. Not with a cupped plank. That's why some of these tile manufacturers make it clear to use a 3/16" grout joint and or do a 1/3 pattern, some even have a suggested pattern that creates a channel through the floor to hide their bowed tile. Who wants that look? If your buying a plank tile to mimic wood you want a tight joint and close as you can to a random pattern.

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