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Unread 01-10-2009, 02:31 PM   #1
Zoid
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Tile edge over taped CBU Seam

Hi all,

Background:
I'm a home DIY and have done tile over concrete, but starting my first CBU project in my kitchen. I'm planning on 1/4" Hardie over 3/4" TG, 16" OC, standard home stuff. A tile foyer was professionally installed when my house was built and is great after 20 years, so I think the floor structure is solid.

Question:
I laid out my CBU and tile layout in Visio (a basic CAD program). I am using 11-3/4" tiles and 1/4" grout so the pattern is exactly 12". With room for wall gaps, the bulk of the field lays out perfectly for full tiles! But that also means that grout seams will fall roughly (give or take 1/2") on top of the CBU seams.

I *will* tape the seams per installation instructions. Should I be worried about any issues here? Should I rework the CBU layout, thus creating more CBU installation work, or am I OK?


Also, what are good saw blade brands to use? I am using Rialto Beige tile, which is a fairly thick tile. For this 300+ sq ft project, I picked up a 10" slider saw from Harbor Freight (good enough for my home use), but I didn't want to buy their blade. ;=)

Thanks!!
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Unread 01-10-2009, 10:23 PM   #2
ceramictec
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hi Kirby,

couple things, if you mesh tape and thinset your joints it will make the sheets become one.
you can turn your sheets the other direction and start with a half on one.

the Rialto Beige tile from Lowes is a good porcelain.

I dont know anything about the Harbor Frieght wetsaw.
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Unread 01-16-2009, 09:18 AM   #3
Zoid
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Thanks for the reply. I think I'll be OK with the taped seams, but I may change the layout of several panels to minimize the issue.
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Unread 01-22-2009, 11:23 PM   #4
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Best plan of attack for a big project?

I am starting to tile my 300+ sq ft kitchen this weekend. It will take 2 weekends to set the backerboard and tile, so I need a phased approach.

Should I lay all the Hardie board first, or just an area large enough for the tile that I know I can complete in one weekend?

Any issues regarding limited foot traffic on bare Hardie board for a few days before tiling?

How long should the tile set before walking on it?

Thanks!
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Unread 01-22-2009, 11:34 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
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I'd lay all the cement board first. Then protect it with something to keep it from getting dirty. A roll of butcher paper taped-down is decent. You want to tile over clean cement board.

Depending on your setting material, you'll generally need 24 hours after setting before grouting. Then the day after grouting, you're set to walk on it. Pay attention to manufacturer's instructions.
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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:39 PM   #6
Snets
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Kirby,

Personally, I have found that the backerboard is the real physical work, cutting, mixing, screwing, etc. When I did the entry, hall, bath and laundry in one project, I broke it up. Did the entry and hall CBU and then tiled it. Then laid the CBU in the bathe and laundry and tiled it in the following days.

For a DIY'er, it broke up the labor part and allowed me a little reward (tile on the floor) in the meantime.

Also, consider walking paths during install. You may be able to stagger "closed areas" by doing it in stages.

I have done a lot of remodel in "stages" to avoid inconvenience, just food for thought.
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Unread 01-23-2009, 11:02 PM   #7
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Welcome, Kirby.

I've combined your two threads for your project here. Please bookmark this one and use it for all your project questions so folks who wanna help can see the history and what's been previously axed and answered.
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Unread 01-24-2009, 09:00 AM   #8
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Thanks for the responses, you guys are a great help!

Now, I just had an "uh-oh" thought that I need comments on. I am planning on having granite counter tops professionally installed after tiling. Most of this is along the walls, however, I have a 30" x 72" island. While reading some other threads, I came across a few old comments about the extra granite weight and the possible effect on installed tile. Some said it is OK, others said to install Granite first, then tile.

I am planning on tiling first (this weekend), then having the tops installed. Am I risking any problems to the installed tile due to the added Granite dead weight "sagging" the floor a bit? The counters/island are not being removed, I will tile around them. The Deflecto tool calcs out at L/687 (2x10, 16" oc, 11 ft span). Subfloor is 3/4" tg, 1/4" Hardie.
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Unread 01-24-2009, 09:53 AM   #9
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I don't think the granite will weigh 600 lbs, will it? 600 lbs is the live load that that area of the floor is responsible for. The cabinets and countertop becomes that live load, even if it never goes away. I wouldn't worry too much more about it.

Now if big ol' Aunt Bertha decides to try out a show-biz career by dancing on it, you might want to step in and move the party outside...
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Unread 01-24-2009, 09:56 AM   #10
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Hi Kirby, I wouldn't worry about the granite weight, a few hundred pounds of granite shouldn't hurt, in my opinion.

I would first lay all the CBU in place leaving about 1/8 between the sheets. Then, I would draw a line around each sheet with a pencil and pull up one at a time, spread thinset to the line and set one at a time into the thinset and get that one nailed/screwed down.

I snap chalk lines to install by. I would want all the CBU down when I go to snap lines, not part of it.
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Unread 01-24-2009, 02:05 PM   #11
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Thanks for the reassurance. I wasn't worried until I saw those other threads.

But the more I think about it, it should be a marginal increase. The cabinets and a laminate top are already in place, so the additional weight will be the DIFFERENCE between the wood/laminate top and the granite. Certainly heavier, but in reality it's probably not more than a few hundred pounds additional weight.

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Now if big ol' Aunt Bertha decides to try out a show-biz career by dancing on it, you might want to step in and move the party outside...



I wonder what the wife would say if I put a brass pole on the island?
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Unread 04-04-2009, 08:57 AM   #12
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I want to thank everyone for helping with my questions. The project is moving along nicely, just a bit more grouting to do. I posted in another thread about having serious issues with Mocha Laticrete grout color being gray instead of brown as shown on the color chart. I wound up cutting it out (Dremel Multimax is awesome) and using Polyblend grout - the color is right on! See below - Rialto Beige tile from Lowes.

Now another question regarding the backsplash. The granite counter tops are going in this week, and then I can start on the backsplash. I will be tiling up to the bottom of the cabinets. The wall is drywall with a laminate backsplash right now. It seems to be glued pretty well. Instead of tearing it out and then needing to repair the drywall, is there any reason not to leave the laminate in place and just screw backer board to the studs?

Thanks!
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Unread 04-04-2009, 09:49 AM   #13
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Hi Kirby,

You can do that, but then your tiles will stick out proud of the wall. I usually remove the laminate and tile right to the chewed up sheetrock. Thin-set fills the divots as you go.
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