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Unread 10-19-2004, 11:14 AM   #1
Hamm3r
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Question Where to cut old drain setup

HI guys, Tony again.

I went to HD yesterday and rented the Hilti Demo Hammer and chipped out the concrete in the slab to get access to a tired old cast iron drain that I want to replace. I was wondering if any of you guys could tell me where's the best place to cut this setup to connect a fernco and new ABS P-trap and drain. Would it be right past the P-trap in front of the collar? Or right after the collar? That's probaly not called a collar but's that's what I'm calling it. There's about 3 inches at the back of the "collar" until it connects to the vent stack. Any recommendations on where to cut and how would be greatly appreciated. Hope the pictures are clear enough. Thanks
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Unread 10-19-2004, 11:21 AM   #2
bbcamp
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I wouldn't cut the cast iron. I'd try to remove the trap at the hub and then adapt the hub to your new trap with a "donut"
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Unread 10-19-2004, 11:59 AM   #3
Hamm3r
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thanks bbcamp. What's the best way to remove the trap from the hub?
How does the donut work?
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Unread 10-19-2004, 12:35 PM   #4
Mike2
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Hi Hamm.

I've never actually used one of those cast iron to plastic sealing donuts so can't help you much there.

As far as removing the trap is concerned, I'd actually use a cheap 1/4" wood chisel (clearance permitting) w/hammer to pick out the lead, which seals the trap into the building drain hub. I've even been known to sharpen up an old screwdriver in lieu of a chisel. The lead might be anywhere from 1/4" to 3/4" deep and behind it you will find oakum (looks somewhat like hemp rope). Sometimes by simply removing the lead from half the circumference of the pipe, one can wiggle it free and out. Then clean up the rest of the inside hub before converting over to plastic using the donut seal.

Last edited by Mike2; 10-19-2004 at 12:40 PM.
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Unread 10-19-2004, 10:10 PM   #5
LonnythePlumber
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Replace Sanitary Tee

You're so close I think you ought to replace the whole cast iron tee. And it looks like you're out of the wall. You could move the pipe back into the wall.
While I usually cut off the hub I did remove the lead and oakum and use a donut this week. The problem is getting the right gasket to fit tight. Extra Heavy cast iron fits tight but the lighter service weight is often too loose. I'd also pour concrete around the donut joint similiar to our connection to a clay tile sewer main hub with donut. I melted my lead out with a torch and 1/4" wood chisel until it got loose. There is a bulge on the end of the pipe inside the hub.
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Unread 10-19-2004, 11:56 PM   #6
Hamm3r
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Thanks Mike and Lonny...appreciate your help.
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Unread 10-20-2004, 05:44 PM   #7
John Bridge
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Uh, Tony. Couple o' things here. Numero Uno, hide your Homer bucket before you take pics. Blows your image big time.

Two. If you bookmark this thread, you can return to it even if it's hidden. Stay on this one for the remainder of your project, and everyone will know what's going on.
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Unread 10-23-2004, 11:52 PM   #8
Hamm3r
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Donut?

Damn! I knew I should have cropped that bucket out of the pic!
Anyhow, I got the P trap and drain out of the hub. Here's what I have to work with. It's outside diameter is about 3-3/4". Does Fernco make a donut for this? If not, can anyone head me in the right direction? Thanks,

Tony
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Unread 10-24-2004, 12:04 AM   #9
cx
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Looks pretty clean, Tony. Might be a good candidate for the "donut" Injineer Bob was suggesting. I think Fernco makes them, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-26-2004, 11:49 PM   #10
Hamm3r
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Thanks CX. I'll post a pic when I put in the new goods...
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