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Unread 01-21-2021, 08:51 PM   #46
Gozo
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Glass door hardware mounting

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2. I'm trying to locate a glass company that won't screw the curb when I come to that stage. I am looking to the exposed hardware sliding doors. Has anyone used those? What kind of mounting do they involve? I am having trouble getting clear answers that I can visualize.
No matter how hard they try to convince you “we do it all the time” (I’m sure they do); resist the temptation to just go along.
I had the same conversation, wound up doing myself.
https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...1&d=1510098680
Drilled about 90% of the way through the stone sill, cut the screws down a bit shorter than that, and epoxied the brackets and screw holes and just pushed the screws in. Taped in place until hard. Solid as a rock; no sign of any shift or looseness at all. Been 2+ years.
Don’t compromise all your hard work for their laziness.
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Unread 01-21-2021, 09:29 PM   #47
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No similar experience at all, Eric. If my customer wanted that kinda surface I would make every effort dissuade her, but if she insisted I'd install it.

After I'd built only a few houses, I could get pretty persuasive about things I really didn't want my name on, but sometimes what the customer really wants is what the customer would really get, so long as it didn't violate any serious code or manufacturer's requirements.
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Unread 01-22-2021, 07:52 PM   #48
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My tile in drain arrived today. A bit different than I expected. This is the product I purchased.

It is supposed to work with sheet membranes but I noticed that unlike the official kerdi ones does not have the fleece on the flange. I plan do use kerdi. Do I need to return this one? Will kerdifix around the edge work?

I had trouble finding a kerdi tile in drain so picked this one.

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Unread 01-22-2021, 09:01 PM   #49
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I dunno, Eric, but I just don't see thinset mortar bonding to that drain surface despite their instructions that appear to recommend just that.

Let's wait for someone who has perhaps used one of those drains. I've never seen one.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-23-2021, 07:02 PM   #50
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I think I've come up with a solution and it didn't cost me much extra. I bought the Kerdi kit that comes with the base drain flange that has the fleece and the gaskets and some corners I was going to buy anyways. It arrives tomorrow but if it is the same size as the one I currently have the other parts from the one I have should work with it.

From the videos I have watched the two install the same so it should work, no?
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Unread 01-23-2021, 07:14 PM   #51
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That's easy; I have no idea.
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Unread 01-23-2021, 09:27 PM   #52
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Thank for all your help CX!

Didn't feel I had to post this but decided to incase anyone else buys one of these drains by infinity drain and happens on this thread. I don't think I see anyway it will work. What they call the throat in the instructions is 1 1/4 high and unless I am using 1 inch thick tile or build a second mortar bed defeating the purpose of using the membrane, there is no way to tile up to the height of the channel.

They make these for standard pvc liner showers and it would probably work height wise then. I suspect this is just poorly designed for membrane installs and their attempt to reuse parts.

I did find Kerdi's tile in drain. I'll be picking that up. Doesn't look near as nice but 300 cheaper.
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Unread 02-02-2021, 11:39 AM   #53
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Nearly gotten my DWV plumbing done and starting on the supply lines this weekend. (The good folks over at Terry Love have been helping me get the plumbing right)

I am wrapping up the shower drain and want to make sure I get the stubout right for the kerdi flange. Schulter instructions say 1 inch min mud bed on plywood but tile standards say 3/4. Can I get by with 3/4? Want as low curb as possible. I don't care about schulter warranty. I do care about a properly functioning shower.

With 3/4 that would mean I want the flange height 1.5 above my joints, by my calculations.
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Unread 02-02-2021, 04:02 PM   #54
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Eric, manufacturer's recommendations always trump tile industry standards. If Schluter wants 1-inch minimum, use 1-inch or more. I actually wasn't aware they had such a specification.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-10-2021, 12:07 PM   #55
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Plumbing is nearly done subfloor is going in this weekend. I've got an ice storm on its way so I'm going to grab my materials tonight. Its my understanding I want 3/4 or closest equivalent, exterior grade glue, C faced or better, tongue and groove plywood.

1. Screws that are atleast 2 1/2. But how many... what's the screw schedule?

2. Do I glue down with construction adhesive or wood glue?

3. Its my understanding that I don't have to use 2x4 blocking but can rip pieces of plywood for non tongue and groove joints?

4. Do I need to leave an expansion gap along the framing where I cut out the old subfloor? Will probably need to put blocking around the perimeter if so.
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Unread 02-10-2021, 02:34 PM   #56
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1. 'Fraid I've lost track of the project here. This is for a first layer of subflooring? If so, the requirement is that the fasteners penetrate the joist at least 3/4s of an inch. Don't know why a fella would need 2 1/2" screws, but they'd meet the requirement.

2. See #1. If it's a first layer, you'd glue to the joist tops with a construction adhesive specified for the application.

3. There is a way to do that.

4. Not sure what blocking has to do with movement accommodation joints, but yes, you want to leave a gap at the perimeter of the subfloor panels.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-10-2021, 02:41 PM   #57
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Yes, first layer. Is there a particular distance apart screws are supposed to be?

Expansion gap has nothing to do with blocking in general but may need some so I have enough wood supporting the plywood and to screw into along the perimeter.
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Unread 02-12-2021, 12:16 PM   #58
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Screw spacing in the field should be 6 to 8 inches, Eric, and 4 to 6 at the seems where two panels meet, and you want those screws along the seems to be offset from each other as much as practical.
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Unread 02-12-2021, 12:46 PM   #59
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For nominal 3/4" material over floor joists 8" in the field (I think the actual requirement is 12") and 6" on the edges is plenty.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-24-2021, 07:28 PM   #60
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Subfloor is in, framing is done, and the electrician starts his second day tomorrow. I have drywallers coming in a couple of weeks so I need to get everything behind the walls done.

I've decided to put a large niche in my tub alcove. The issue is its a load bearing wall. Stids ate 16 OC. In order to build my niche ill need to cut out one stud. My plan:

Put in new king and jack studs the width i want my niche then put in a 2x12 header consisting of two 2x12 with a spacer. I'd then frame out the rest of the niche.

1. Any issues with this plan?

2. Do I need a temp wall removing just one stud?

3. How big does the temp wall need to be span wise?
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