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Unread 12-20-2005, 01:05 PM   #16
bbcamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaraM
I'm not worthy

Of course you are, silly!

Blocking goes between the studs to give you something to staple the liner to. Use 2x10s and staple only along the top. Also, recess the blocking by 1/4" so there will be room for the folds in the liner. See our shower construction thread in the liberry for this.

Your curb will have to be secured to the floor with concrete screws. Cut a strip of builder's felt (or sheet plastic, your call) to protect the wood from absorbing water from the concrete slab.


Most folks who have an opinion like clear ployethylene sheeting because they can see through it, and there isn't as many seams (one piece may do it).

On your bench, please remember that you cannot install a moisture barrier on the seat because you will be poking a bunch of holes through it. You will need the surface applied waterproofer for the seat area, 6 inches up the walls and on the front down to the shower floor.
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Unread 12-20-2005, 03:36 PM   #17
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Shower curb corners

Does anyone one know where to find the pre-formed shower pan liner corners for around the shower curb? Neither Lowe's nor Home Depot seem to have them. Can I make something effective myself?
thanks,
cara
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Unread 12-20-2005, 07:23 PM   #18
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I normally check the plumbing supply, they usually have them.
I've tried making them without any luck.
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Unread 12-21-2005, 09:11 AM   #19
bbcamp
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www.noblecompany.com has them in their online store. Remember to order the right material, since they sell both PVC and CPE. Also, don't forget the glue.

And tell Eric I sent ya!
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Unread 12-22-2005, 10:13 AM   #20
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Hey thank

Thanks, I ordered the corners.
cara
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Unread 12-22-2005, 02:25 PM   #21
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Ok new question

I have a problem, I knew it was a problem earlier and tried to fix it. There is a vent pipe at the back of my shower with an elbow joint in it. The joint sticks out about 3/4 of an inch beyond the studs. I asked my plumber if he could fix it so it wouldn't and it isn't possible the way the drain/vents are laid out. The shower previously had some cultured marble installed over tiles installed on greenboard. It looks like the pipe eventually broke through the tiles and that was the inspiration for the marble. I screwed in (i mean really those suckers aren't moving) some furring strips along the length of the studs upon which I intend to install CBU. I thought since one can install CBU over drywall that this was ok. The problem is the joint sticks out a smidge beyond the furring strips. I know that I can't have any pressure on the CBU from behind even if it is just a smidge. Any suggestions? Can I place roofing felt on the studs to fur them out a bit more? Is it completely unthinkable to score the back of the CBU a teeny bit to give the joint room?

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Unread 12-27-2005, 09:46 AM   #22
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on we go

Ok, I have built the pre slope for my shower floor, aquired a liner and some dam corners and am going to hang some hardi backer today. Seems like when the actual tiling begins I will be just about done.
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Unread 12-27-2005, 10:45 AM   #23
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Cara, you could shim out the studs again. Use wood lathe strips or even stacks of roofing felt. Grind out a little relief on the backside of the CBU is doable if the amount you are releiving is not too big (say 2"x2"), and certainly no deeper than say 3/16".

Checklist:
1) Studs shimmed/notched [ ] (insert your own check mark here)
2) Blocking in place (remember to offset from front of studs by depth of notch) [ ]
3) Curb installed [ ]
4) Drain fitting glued in and level [ ]
5) Roofing felt and lath on subfloor (skip if on slab) [ ]
6) Preslope mudded in (don't forget to use something to protect the weepholes) [ ]
7) Liner installed (with dam corners [ ]
8) Vapor barrier installed (overlaps top of liner) [ ]
9) Backerboard on walls installed (tape and mud when you tile) [ ]
10) Lath and mud curb [ ]
11) Setting bed installed [ ]
12) Have fun! [ ]
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Unread 12-27-2005, 02:49 PM   #24
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Sounds good

The area I have to worry about sticking out about 1/8 of an inch is the size of a sick of gum so I think I will remove a bit on the back side of my 1/2 wall board without too much (more) trouble. I got about 1 - 6 done. I put the top pieces of CBU up while I still had help but will finish after I test the liner tonite.
I think I am going to make it. thanks a bunch
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Unread 12-27-2005, 10:17 PM   #25
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testing liner

I am testing the liner now. I made the corners like in John Bridge's book and they look the same, but they sure are bulky. I hope I notched enough. Does the CBU smash them down?
Anyway, thanks for the checklist, it proves to my husband that I am doing things that I should be doing and I am doing them in the right order. Allrighty, it's miller time.
cara
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Unread 12-28-2005, 11:09 AM   #26
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liner tested

Liner works. Could I use some adhesive to smash the corners together? Or will the pressure of the CBU do that? Off to install the rest of my Hardi backer and all that fun stuff.
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Unread 12-28-2005, 11:51 AM   #27
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oops

Well I didn't let the caulking cure that i put round the bottom flange so water leaked out there. I guess I am off until that caulking dries. at least 24 hrs
oh well
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Unread 12-29-2005, 12:17 PM   #28
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Help on sealing liner around drain

I keep having trouble sealing my shower pan liner around the bottom flange of the drain. I caulked (maybe the job is the problem) around it, waited for it to cure and it failed so I will do it again. Are there any other things I can do to make that seal better?
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Unread 12-31-2005, 10:49 AM   #29
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never mind it works

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Unread 01-02-2006, 01:11 PM   #30
CaraM
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Question about mud for curb

I know this is answered somewhere, but I can't find it. I couldn't find the exact bags shown in the liberry to make mud for the curb, but I have a bag of type S morter mix. Do I add some sand to that or just water to make "fat mud"?
thanks,
cara
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