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10-22-2005, 06:38 AM
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#61
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Retired Moderator -- Wisconsin Tile Man & Musky Guide
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Springbrook WI
Posts: 16,083
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No need to apologize Neil, that's why we're here  . Try to do a search on countertops if you can find what you are looking for let us know. We will steer you in the right direction.
__________________
Musky Mike 
Corrado Custom Tile
Kerdi Shower Specialist
Dreams are like tasting a little bit of the future today. Keep dreaming and it will come true.
New here? Check this out.
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10-22-2005, 03:03 PM
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#62
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Hi everyone,
Attached is the plan of the shower wall I want. I actually forgot to include the listelo tiles above the diagonal tiles. If you look at the drawing, I added the blue arrows. Those blue arrows are pointing to the cutted side of the tile. I've done some tiling here at home and I don't like the look of the cutted side of the tile. What tool can I use to sand it so that it will look bevelled(just like a new tile we buy)?
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10-22-2005, 06:17 PM
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#63
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Hi guys,
I finished the demolition about an hour ago. I would like to know now which part I need to put CBUs on. Do I cover everything that I've removed with CBU?
BTW, I decided not to go with the mortar bed anymore. I'll just buy a shower pan.
Last edited by v1rtu0s1ty; 10-22-2005 at 08:36 PM.
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10-22-2005, 08:51 PM
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#64
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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I'd put it behind everything that's getting tile. Some may say that you can get away with less than cbu around a soaking tub that doesn't see much on the way of use. But cbu isn't a whole lot more $$. I'd just do everything in cbu.
If applying cement board everywhere leaves a couple areas exposed (that is, areas that are not going to be tiled) you can you can treat the face of the cement board like drywall and cover it with a skim coat of drywall compound to smooth it out. Then paint as you would drywall.
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10-22-2005, 08:55 PM
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#65
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg
I'd put it behind everything that's getting tile. Some may say that you can get away with less than cbu around a soaking tub that doesn't see much on the way of use. But cbu isn't a whole lot more $$. I'd just do everything in cbu.
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Great. I'd follow your advice. However, I want to put a niche to. I really got attracted to it when I saw John's niche. However, he mentioned that it's tough to do it on cement board. And also, he was asking me if I'll be using a homebrew niche. I don't want to go that route. I'll just buy the niche. Any tips about niche on cbu?
Thanks!
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10-22-2005, 08:59 PM
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#66
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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If you are buying the niche, it's pretty easy. Just make sure to waterproof the seam where the niche meets the cbu. Use a waterproofing product that uses the fabric tape as re-inforcement.
If you end up framing-out the niche yourself and covering it with cement board, waterproof the entire niche. Use the same type of waterproofing as above and use the fabric tape on all the seams and corners.
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10-22-2005, 09:35 PM
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#67
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg
If you are buying the niche, it's pretty easy. Just make sure to waterproof the seam where the niche meets the cbu. Use a waterproofing product that uses the fabric tape as re-inforcement.
If you end up framing-out the niche yourself and covering it with cement board, waterproof the entire niche. Use the same type of waterproofing as above and use the fabric tape on all the seams and corners. 
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Ok. Can you tell me what those waterproof products are that I should buy? And when you say it's the fabric tape, it's the tape that has small square in it, right, like a grid?
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10-22-2005, 09:42 PM
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#68
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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I have an issue guys. I'm trying to remove the shower pan but I'm scared that I might break the plastic pipe under it. I can easily lift the pan but I can see the pipe that is attached to it also gets lifted. How do I remove this 10 yrd old technology shower pan?
Thanks guys!
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10-22-2005, 10:23 PM
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#69
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v1rtu0s1ty
Ok. Can you tell me what those waterproof products are that I should buy? And when you say it's the fabric tape, it's the tape that has small square in it, right, like a grid?
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There's a bunch out there, but I'm most familiar with Tec's "Triple Flex". Comes in a bucket with everything you need: the dry powder, liquid mix, and fabric tape. The tape is similar to weedbarrier fabric you'd use outside.
As far as removing the pan from the pipe. If there is anything other than a big nut that compresses a rubber donut to make the connection to the drain, I just cut out a small section of the floor to remove the pan. Then attack it later when everything is out of the way. Can you pluck that rubber donut out with a screw and a pair of vicegrips?
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10-23-2005, 01:36 AM
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#70
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Ok guys, finally I was able to remove the shower pan. I used a cutter to make a diagonal cut on the rubber that grips the pvc. Then I used a plier and a screwdriver to pull it.
Anyways, beneath the shower pan was a tar or asphalt paper. Then I took out the asphalt paper and attached is what I've found out.
I need your tips now. When I install my new shower pan, what should I do to prevent this future leak again?
Thanks!
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10-23-2005, 01:40 AM
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#71
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Retired Moderator -- Wisconsin Tile Man & Musky Guide
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Springbrook WI
Posts: 16,083
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Hi Neil, if you are using a fiberglass one again, put some deck mud under it so it doesn't sound hollow. As long as it's caulked on the bottom and the tile is over the flange you shouldn't have any leaks.
__________________
Musky Mike 
Corrado Custom Tile
Kerdi Shower Specialist
Dreams are like tasting a little bit of the future today. Keep dreaming and it will come true.
New here? Check this out.
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10-23-2005, 01:42 AM
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#72
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muskymike
Hi Neil, if you are using a fiberglass one again, put some deck mud under it so it doesn't sound hollow. As long as it's caulked on the bottom and the tile is over the flange you shouldn't have any leaks.
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The deck mud only helps with the sound right?
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10-23-2005, 01:46 AM
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#73
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Retired Moderator -- Wisconsin Tile Man & Musky Guide
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Springbrook WI
Posts: 16,083
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It will also stiffen the bottom up.
__________________
Musky Mike 
Corrado Custom Tile
Kerdi Shower Specialist
Dreams are like tasting a little bit of the future today. Keep dreaming and it will come true.
New here? Check this out.
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10-23-2005, 01:46 AM
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#74
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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No,
More importantly, it keeps the bottom of the pan solid, intead of allowing it flex up and down when you stand in it. This flexing can lead to leaks at the drain.
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10-23-2005, 01:49 AM
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#75
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg
No,
More importantly, it keeps the bottom of the pan solid, intead of allowing it flex up and down when you stand in it. This flexing can lead to leaks at the drain. 
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More jobs for me now!
Btw, I'm about to put wonderboard tomorrow. What tool should I use to make clean cuts for this type of board? And Kurt, I still don't get on how I can waterproof the niche and the cbu. A picture will really help me a lot. Sorry, English is not my native language.
Thanks for helping me guys! It's actually 2:50AM Central time.
EDIT: I have noticed that there is 1/4" plywood underneath the vinyl flooring. If I would like to put ceramic tiles, should I wack that plywood out and replace it with thinner wonderboard?
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